http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1614917844.html This guy has possibilities The 69 block has a thick wall casting and the 73 heads were a lower compression version of the high performance heads. They are great for a truck. Tech I've actually been looking at that motor a lot lately. Too bad I do...

Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate the support and offers to lend knowledge and helping hands. You know, every since I’ve bought this truck, I’ve been waiting on something like this to happen. It was just a matter of time really, I just wish it would have happened back when I actual...

if you're looking for water in the cylinders, pull the spark plugs First, and check for water. If you pull the head first, you WILL dump water into them and foul up your investigation. If it were mine, I'd just yank it out, not screwing around with in truck teardown, and rip it apart. Sounds like y...

you dont need to pull the front clip to remove or even work on any part of the engine, i have the 460 block in mine and have pulled it 2 times plus installation without ever having an issue, pulling the front clip just seems like alot of extra work I've wanted/needed to pull the front clip for awhi...

if enough coolant gets into a cylinder while the engine is running the rod will break under strain as the coolant cannot be compressed. if the coolant gets in while the engine is not running you wont be able to crank the engine over (hydrolocked) That rings a bell with me. Because I don't remember ...

What I suggest is pulling the intake and heads. Your not gonna get that oil pan off (at least I can't image how) with out pulling that engine. When you pull the heads you can see what happened. If it's a piston then you will see that. The only thing you won't see is a rod but if the piston won't go...

What I suggest is pulling the intake and heads. Your not gonna get that oil pan off (at least I can't image how) with out pulling that engine. When you pull the heads you can see what happened. If it's a piston then you will see that. The only thing you won't see is a rod but if the piston won't go...

Steve if you need help with it give me a call. I can come up about anytime I will just have an ankle biter in tow. I can help with pulling the pan and checking the top end to see what happened. More if needed, just let me know if I need to bring a engien houst or large jack or whatever. BT Thanks m...

Also, I’m thinking one of two factors led to this failure. I’m thinking that the exhaust backing up caused it to massively overheat, and I think it might have also had an oiling problem. When I pulled the valve cover on the drivers side, there was very little oil inside. There was a little pooled up...

azjake wrote:Ouch! Sorry about that. What engine is in your truck?

Jake

It’s a 429.
I pulled the number one and number 8 spark plug, and they looked pretty normal. There was some carbon on them, but no buildup or anything.

Well guys, it looks like she’s toasted. If any of you remember my recent thread, I was having problems with a lack of power, and stalling, which finally lead to a total break down and tow home a week ago. When I got it home finally it was too dark to do much, so I had to wait until this last weekend...

Were you selling them for a hundred with or without the tires? If I can figure out a way to get em or ship em where it doesn't kill me, I'd take em in a heartbeat.

Ford used some tubing that had a double wall. The inside one rusts and collapses and clogs up the works. I found this out the hard way after spending two weeks trying to figure out why a nice 351W I built would not get out of its own way. Okay, that makes a lot of sense. Once I cut the mufflers off...

If the pipes between the engine manifolds and the mufflers are original, they are prone to collapse internally even though they still look fine externally. Once you cut the flowmasters loose you still have potential for clog. Only way I know to be sure is to pull at the manifold. Or, if all else fa...

Okay, I'm going to hook my vacuum gauge up and run through a few things and see what I find out. I've been researching it and it looks like the exhaust being backed up could be key. From all I've read, the symptoms are identical, and there are even a few that I had forgotten to mention. I'm thinking...

Remote possibility, clooged exhaust, but your symptoms are exactly like those experienced in the past with that problem. Just someting else to check. It does seem likely. I have had this problem before on one of my rides, but it was due to the 25 year old catalytic converter. A couple of good whack...

Thanks TXslick, I actually have a vacuum pump/gauge that I’ve only used to bleed my brakes. I knew that I could use it for diagnostics too, but I forgot all about it. Sounds like a good idea. I see that you’ve highlighted the exhaust part of your post, so it would seem to me that you are leaning hea...

if you can find the casting numbers off of it, you should be able to find out pretty quick with just a simple google search!

Well, she completely tanked on me yesterday and I had to have her towed home. I reset the distributor, got her timed in much better and gassed her up. She was ready to run it would seem. Took her for a few jogs around the neighborhood, and she ran great. She was roaring and ready to go it would seem...

All the mention of vaccum brings up a question in my mind. How exactly can I assure that my vacuum system is working correctly? I’ve got the hose hooked up to the vacuum advance on my distributor, but only out of habit. I can’t even tell you that I know exactly where it goes. The PO was a moron, and...