Hey SlixtyFive - Eaton's the only offering I know of. Moog is out of the game. Here's the page with the rear leafs with some lowering built in you were talking about: http://www.eatonsprings.com/57-66fordf100.html

Agree that it's spendy. Including the Eaton page reference for other members.

Hey William - there are angle shims if you run into differential binding concerns. Here is a $20 example: m There are also providers with replacement brackets and shackles: m (need shorter shocks if you go this route and I have not asked DJM if C-notching is essential for this particular kit) Good l...

Hi Dot - i'm running Super Brights and they seem ok - no troubles. Hard to say if they 'made a significant difference' in terms of brightness. The larger issue was the surface rust inside the bucket which really dulled any reflectivity. I cleaned that up and painted to try and help with brightness. ...

Was having surface rust problems in the bore of my dual master conversion (crazy, I know). I replaced with an 1-1/8 inch bore Wildwood all-aluminum unit. It's pricey but it's a pretty fine piece of business. Wilwood slotted the mount so it worked with our power booster studs center to center. No mod...

hi Dakota - I suggest that the 240cid's, like mine, seem to get along with the 390cfm. I am running the following: Clifford open plenum aluminum intake: m Clifford headers (coated): m Holly 390cfm: m : I converted from electric choke to manual using Holley's kit (guess I have control issues... also ...

Found this in Mallory's Tech Library: It's not the voltage so much as the resistance on the primary side. You need at least 1.4 ohms (and preferably no more than 3 ohms). While it is true that more primary resistance will reduce the voltage, it is difficult to give an exact voltage because it depend...

Thanks Ricky - will definitely spend some time with the multi-meter this weekend. That's great news.

Man alive, Friendswood, Pearland... Texas Slicks represent! My wife and her family is from Friendswood - her folks live on the way to Clover Field. Small world.

Thanks all.

I am in the process of going with the Clifford setup for my 240cid. Intake, headers, Holley 390cfm. Holley part number is 0-8007 ( http://www.holley.com/0-8007.asp ). Will upgrade to a 300cid when the someday-money-fairy shows up. Clifford offers ceramic coated headers (extra charge) which I'm hopin...

Thanks Charlie - just to be clear, Mallory's instructions provide for 3 potential configurations: 1) with ballast resistor 2) with a loom resistance wire 3) with an ignition control box. I will be using method '2' if the resistance wire, provided in the OEM harness, provides a drop to 8 volts to the...

Thanks Uncle Skip - Your reply and level of detail is MUCH appreciated. Will do.

Tip of the hat from San Antonio.

Hey Folks - Just picked up Mallory's Unilite elec. ignition distributor (part number 4563101 - mech advance) and coil (part number 29216) for my L6. The related question: Did Ford use a loom resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil (+) in their factory harness? I'm trying to avoid ha...

Thanks Brian - please keep us posted. I have the Clifford setup all in boxes and (intake, headers, 390cfm holley) and have been collecting related parts, re-routing existing systems in prep for the job. Feels like a lot to chew off so i bet there may be a lot of folks with questions. Pictures would ...

hey Dan - I did not find any vendors who sourced a "pre-bent stick" - all anti-rattle stock was straight, to ease shipping. When I did my doors, using the "glass in the channel" trick per above, I had one channel that went well and one channel that went 'fair'. A learning curve p...

nice find Brian - thanks for the post. if helps the forum, i bought my 66 from the Dallas area (Garland TX) and it looked about the same. note to folks outside of TX: the surface rust tends to look rough around here, but it can often just be the TX sun eating the paint but not rotting the steel. my ...

pie cuts up into a bad corner can give you a better chance of shrinking an overhang / bad lap to fit. it will make for more welding to close the cuts, but you'll get a much more symmetrical final look overall if you've got some serious misalignments.

good luck!

i wrote an article on anti-rattler installs in my 66 and posted it in Hints and Tricks. this should link to it: http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10201&highlight=

hope it helps and good luck.

contact Randy with Precision Products Here is contact info: Phone    210-687-1313   Monday-Friday   9am - 5pm  Central Fax        206-350-2357 Email     stanger53@gmail.com he rebuilt my box to factory specs. amazing how 'tight' the old truck feels after this mod (in combination with replacing all t...

i agree with Fran - my 66 needs the key on for brake light power. drove me nuts after chasing related bugs around the system. Custom Classic Truck s or Classic Trucks mag did a one pager tech article on replacing the pressure switch with an off the shelf NAPA plunger and home-made bracket at the ped...

REALLY like Clifford's products. a few related notes if you miss this eBay and buy from Cliiford ( http://www.cliffordperformance.net ): • intake will not mate with stock exhaust manifold - Clifford offers a nice header set • soak the composite intake / exhaust gasket in water prior to install. no g...

good question QWERTY... i get them both and folks may have a range of opinions given their specific interests. CCT is a little more focused on higher end builds. i tend to lean toward CT, because i think their tech articles are a bit stronger. CT recently started a series called Night School which i...