Uncle skip is right on here, too many variables for a blanket question. I am running a 4.10 locker in a big bearing 9 inch, c6 with a 3200 stall converter behind a 400 with 70 cj 4v heads giant voodoo cam and the works. cant figure out why the gas milage is so bad though........what i am saying is b...

14x5 d spokes torque thrusts up front, out back is a massive set of 16x12 steelies with 5-1/2 of back spacing and no rubbing, the tires are hoosier pro street radials 29x15.5 x 16, its a gasser style truck with a torino cobra rear 9 inch big bearing with the daytona pinion, pretty much the same size...

sealers usually have different mixings procedures.......3:1:1 for primer, 3:1:1:1 for a sealer, the third part being a tint for proper coverage, sealers also use slower hardner along with a different reducer for flash times. temp and moisture will also make a big difference in you end result, mix ac...

i paint for a living and the major amount of your loot will go to labor, pull it apart your self and do all the sanding and bondo work. buy all your own paint and clear. minimal grand for refinish that way. it really does matter how far you want to go with it, show paint or nice 10 footer with a dee...

sweet, thanx alot fellas...........

looking for the history on my 66 step, can someone decode the vin. f10ak791364. which one is the color code and so on. thanx guys.

I prepaid this year for the show, the 66 slick wont be making it, motor out and repairing floors and cab mounts and sticking in the 61 uni straight axle for the gasser look, anyways is the rain going to happen up there???? going to bring my candy yellow gmc lowrider inatead....

looking for ideas on 66 step stide, started to build a gasser but soon found out my frame is not in any shape to be modified or drivin on in that case. ditching the gasser idea and now want to put a newer frame under the cab and bed. which frame is the best solution, s-10 , ranger, later model f-150...

another has been bitten by the bug, go get a slick and start grinding, addicting lil habit isn`t it.

i am running a 15x5 up front with a 165 15 and out back are a 16x12 with a 29x15.5x16 pro street radial 5-1/2 back space no rubbing at all .

icemans is right not enough info in the description and need some close ups on the block nos.

running a pair of edelbrocks / carters 550 cfm each, these carbs are just more streetable and much easier to adjust than a holley . no removing bowls or taking them off the intake, complete metering rod kits for all sizes are inexpensive, so i say cheaper and more reliable go edelbrock/ carter

google the the carb and it`s numbers, a whole lotta sites for rebiulds and builders. probably i think the best 4 barrel carb, easy to hop up and stays set once you adjust it, better than holleys any day.

looking for headers or possibly fenderwell headers. does anone have a good idea what to use or where to look. or is there a kit to build them up.

how the hell do ya get in that thing?????????

depending on the look you are going for, those look great with the bigs n littles, 225 65 15 front 275 60 15 rear , bf goodrich ta`s classic look with grat all weather handling

junkyard is on spot . the mac tools are the strongest i have ever used. its broken studs on my gmc truck.

spot welds from the factory dont generate as much heat as the fillett welds, seam seal after or you will have some flamage.

I towed my 66 step with my 08 jeep wrangler and a tow dolly. 400 miles plus. remove the drive shaft and haul away. my jeep is only rated for 3800 lbs and pulled the old beast with no effort and no problems. all i did was remove the drive shaft and put a pair of 195 75 15 skinnys on the rear of the s...

as someone who has been painting and doing body work fpr living now for 20 + years, that looks great, time spent with your son is priceless no matter what you are doing. makes me miss my dad...