Uncle Skip wrote:Make sure to seal the corners of the gasket before they install the windshield. Trust me, they leak.

I will tell them, is that the upper and lower corners, glass side or both? Thanks

cwindsor wrote:Wow... Thats high...

Here in South Carolina it's $175.00 and our gasket.

I could have got it cheaper, went with an American Made Tinted Windsheild. What part of SC you in?

I used the american autowire kit on a single wire GM alt.... I guess this made it alot easier... I also installed custom gauges to clean up the dash of old wires... I really though about going that way and the GM Style Ignition and Distributor combo, would have elminated alot of wiring and really s...

Took my daughter for a ride last night. We bundled up it was not to bad. Like riding a motorcyle in a recliner,. Never in 7 degress though ouch!! Did not realize how much I miss driving this truck. It is fun!! It has been in the project stage for the last seven years or so. Light at the end of the t...

I have my truck wiring completed. I used the EZ Wiring Harness. They supply a diagram for generic Ford. I have the Round Gauge Instrument Panel with ALT Light. Possible Stumbling Blocks(Mine Anyway); ALT Light - I Terminal(ALT Exciter White) of the Voltage Regulator goes to one side of the Altenator...

Getting the windsheild installed in my 66 today. Should be interesting high of 43. I have to drive the truck about 12 miles. 225.00 Installed using my DC Gasket. I do not have the side windows in yet, wing windows are installed.

Good Job. I'm getting closer on mine. I am using the EZ wiring wireing harness. Hopefully get a little more knocked out tonight.

To simplify this. Ignition Switch Run - Plus Side of Coil (Plus side of coil is also hooked to plus wire on distributer) probally Red. Ignition Swith Start - "S"Terminal on solinoid. No where else. Coil to Distributor Plus side coil to plus side distributer Negative Side of Coil to negativ...

Negative side of coil is going to distributor. No ground. As far as I read. I see it sorry. Positive side and negative side of coil goes to distributor. Distributor should have two wires red and black(guessing). Red goes to positive side of coil , Black to negative side of coil. I do not think the t...

Yep, and the way to determine that is to test the circuits. You will not be able to "power from (I) terminal" It'll die when released. Sound familiar? That is why I told him to connect the run position to the coil also. It would work, not needed but he is getting discouraged. You do not w...

The pink wire is not hooked up, Is it getting hot??? How no path for current?

The positive side of the coil will hook to ignition run and the + input to the procomp. It is simple. No ballast or pink wire.

Only other piece. Ignition start needs to be to "S" terminal on solniod.

Yep, and the way to determine that is to test the circuits. You will not be able to "power from (I) terminal" It'll die when released. Sound familiar? That is why I told him to connect the run position to the coil also. It would work, not needed but he is getting discouraged. If the Pro-C...

Cwin This might be real easy, do not get discouraged. Try this disconnect the wire from the "I" Terminal on the soliniod. See if the truck starts. If it does not start. Connect a wire from the run position on the igintion switch to the wire you disconnected from the "I" terminal....

UPDATE: I beleive in his situation he only wants the start position of the ignition switch to the s terminal on the soliniod. No where else. "I" terminal does not need to be used The the run position ignition switch (no Ballast) to plus side of coil. He has a GM style ignition. 12 volts ri...

This might help The key is the soliniod "S" and "I" Terminals You need to run the Start position of the Ignition switch to the "S" Terminal. Next "I" Terminal to Plus side of the coil. This will also connect to the plus side of your distributor (Procomp). This...

Forget the Ballast resitor and pink wire. I just google the procomp it is like a GM ignition. I believe you need the full 12 volts.

Which makes it easy. The wire from the run position on the ignition switch needs to go to the positive side of the coil.

two questions... when you say ignition module... are you meaning Ignition switch???? second I ran a jumper wire from the pink wire to the switched wire and the truck didn't even start... (tried this earlier) Was this at the run position? Was there 12volts here? Thanks for all the help... I am sure ...

No I mean what ever replaced the points

You are very close there are just a couple wires that needed figure out. I think it is all at the switch

Can you disonnect the wire you have in the run position. Connect the pick wire there. And and try it? At least see if yo get 7-12 volts at the coil in run. It might happen that you need the pink wire and the current wire connected to run, if the current wire supplies voltage to your ignition module.