Check out this thread - "Will it pull?":
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/97618 ... -pull.html

Okay, finally got it running and the valved adjusted. The engine is now spooky quiet. Sounds and runs good. I now think, though, that I have a throwout bearing problem that I couldn't hear before. I will later post the procedure that we used, but for now I have another issue - low oil pressure. The ...

Looking back, I see that I wasn't clear about the rocker stud damage, and the photo doesn't clearly show the extent. This is not just a bad scratch; it consists of a deep groove on each side, maybe 1/8" wide by nearly the same depth. That's why I was worried. Still, it may do okay, I suppose. I...

I think you have solved the problem by replacing the bent push rod and damaged rocker. Installing new lifters was a good move. Adjusting the valve lash cold and following that with a warm running adjustment should be the end of it. I would not worry about some scratching on the stud. Check to be su...

Damm I am now truly jealous. I can barley get mine to do over 60 with out complaining LOL Mine will do 70 to 80 and get 20 mpg. Somebody before me put a 2.75 axle under there. Don't ask it to pull more than itself, though. As far as pulling goes, as an ex-partner liked to say, it wouldn't pull a gr...

macgiobuin wrote:I installed a hood lock (chain w/lock receiver found on Ebay for about $5) for security. Also will stop the hood from surprising you out on the interstate.

Could you perhaps provide an item number or link? I was not able to find what I thought you described.

I had another post on the subject here: http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=31847 but it kind of petered out. I think folks figured it was pretty much solved, and if anyone more experienced was doing the work, it probably would be. Anyway, I just replaced a bent pushrod and rocker arm on...

Two things: 1. I'm thinking I need to replace this stud. I'm afraid it will cause the rocker to bind and bend another pushrod. From what I read elsewhere, they are pretty easy to get out, but what about putting in a replacement? How hard would that be? This stud is not loose, so I would think that o...

Also, something I had not noticed before: In the picture of the valve stem and retainer, if you look at the stud, you can see a groove where the rocker was wobbling back and forth. there is another on the opposite side. I thought I was in pretty good shape until I saw that. I would be grateful for s...

1) Could be at least a contributing factor. 2) Refer to #1; I would not hesitate to just do the one valve set. Lifters are fairly cheap and easy to access on the 300. I would change rocker arm, push rod and lifter. If you are really ambitious, you could inspect the other rockers and push rods. Clea...

If your replacing a push rod, lifter and possibly a rocker, why not replace all of the rockers with chevy rockers. They're only about $15 at a parts store, and will give you a bit more lift. The rockers are for a chevy 250. You can find lots of information on it at the fordsix.com site. Jerry D Tha...

Valve tick went to more of a clack, so finally removed the valve cover to have a look and hopefully adjust the valves. The problem was that #1 cylinder had a bent pushrod. Here's how the situation looked: Rocker at one extreme http://avenue411.com/files/rocker1.jpg Rocker at other extreme http://ave...

I have a 66 F100 with a 77 300 six, and one or more lifters is making a lot of noise. Is there any valve adjustment? If I have to replace the lifters, must pushrods and/or cam be replaced, also?

All suggestions appreciated.

Okay, thanks. I think I've got it.

I'm putting Brakes on a '66 Ford F100, and the Ford 9 inch rear axle assembly has been changed. Brake shoes are narrower than standard. Since the rear end is now a 2.75, then it has to be something that originally had an automatic. I need to figure out what kind of brakes to buy. Any suggestions wil...

My slick is a 66 F100 with a 1977 300 I6 and 3 speed trans. I have a chance to buy a 1979 F150, 302, automatic for $600. I can either spend a little time, get it running right, and sell it or use it for parts. If the first didn't work out, I was wondering what from the 79 I could use on the 66? I'm ...

On my 66 F100, the driver's side wiper was slapping a bit as it bottomed out, so I took the wiper arm off and put it back on a bit higher. Alter a while, it began slapping on the bottom again with a wider arc that carried it too far the other way as well. Seems kind of strange. What do you suppose c...

JFN-What is yer readings now with the new setup that you put together. Yeah that ground wire has to be connected or they won't work. In the video that we were following, the guy was making one for a 68 Fairlane and so used an 8 volt regulator. He said that, with the load of the gauges, it came out ...

Okay - update: We tried building the regulator, and it worked, although voltage still a bit too high. In doing this, we learned the value of the whole thing being grounded. Then my son remarked that when he had removed the regulator, it had not been connected to the mounting screw and was just hangi...

I had to replace my vr , the gauges suddenly pegged out and burned out the temp gauge before i could disconnect them. I got a regulator from Macs . I got a temp gauge from Slickmainer. Hope that didn't happen to me. Looks like the gauges were getting 10.5 volts. Maybe that won't be enough to kill '...