I tried some Dodge mags on my Uni and the center hole was too small. Could have cut 'em bigger, but found some Ford wheels that fit.

Gotta agree with Roger, the SROD aluminum case trans is crap, the external linkage model is pretty good. It's the old Toploader modified so third gear is OD. Had one hooked to a hot 351W for 60K miles with absolutely no problems. Only drawback is a big ratio jump from second to high, needs a torquer...

Tires. My '66 was terrible with Hankooks, swapped to some old Goodyears and it steers great!

Only reason I can see for an alignment pin would be to "clock" the valve stems....??

Having had a few disc brake Ford trucks, I was never impressed with their stopping power. Drums work as well or better. Discs on the rear are terrible on gravel or dirt roads around here, the rocks flipped up by the front wheels get in the works and grind the pads and discs to death in no time. Many...

First, don't use the old '66 carb with a Duraspark setup! The vacuum advance will not work. You can hook the advance hose direct to manifold vacuum, but to look "right" you need the newer carb that matches the distributor. As far as the wiring goes, you have the distributor a tooth or two ...

Twin I beam setup has a lot more wear points than a single, and have to be kept in good condition or they can be pretty scary! Shocks are the first thing that have to be good, or the truck will "walk" one way on a bump. They are hard to bring back when they walk bad......

A 302 or 351W will bolt to the 300 bell, and the motor mounts relocate back to the other holes already in the frame. Easy swap.

Get the carb that goes with the Dura spark, it's different from the Load-a-matic carb.

Best thing to do with a '66 six is get a carb and Dura-spark off a later truck and get rid of the Load-a-Matic crap. More power, starts better, runs better, more mileage, night-and-day difference.

If you ever venture of the superhighways the limited slip is the way to go. Sure, they are a bit different to drive, but that's why you have a brain.......

My '66 has a 351W. I moved the 6 cyl. mounts back to the other holes and it bolted right in. I used a 5 speed M5R2 trans and had to move the stock (4speed) X member a few inches and drill new holes in the frame. The shifter comes up through the same hole in the floor as the farmer 4 did. Some "...

Get a carb and distributor and Duraspark off a 1983 or so truck. Wires and all. Worked for me!

If you keep the 240, the Duraspark swap is a must-do. I did mine and it was like a new truck! Started better, pulled much better. Pulled away from corners without downshifting the 4-speed, just a day-and-night improvement.

The only Optima I have, the top post doesn't make connection. Still works side post, though. The top posts don't seem to be very strong, it twists back and forth real easy when you put the cable on it. Oh, well, GM's need batteries too.

Most older cars and trucks only had the passenger side key entry. I think it was just cheaper, never heard of a law against getting in on the driver's side. Not real smart on a busy street, though.

I'd bet its the center bearing rubber mount. The good news is, the bearing and mount is the same piece up into the late '70's or even later, so they are easily available.

Spin it over with your finger plugging the spark plug hole. If it has enough compression to blow past your finger, there is enough compression to fire.

When you say you replaced the pinion, do you mean the ring and pinion set, or just the pinion? If you put a different pinion on the old ring gear, that's the source of the whine.

Could be an Orion 4 Over, based on the toploader.