I use plastic shims you can get at any home store. For some reason almost any time a hood is removed, they never sit right in the back after being re-installed. As our Utah friend says you have to move the front part of the hood hinge lower to lower the rear edge of the hood.

The thermostat only controls the inflow of coolant from the radiator. If you overheat, you still pressure the system and can blow a hose as the return on the bottom is still open.

I'd check for a stuck thermostat before pulling the head.

If I recall correctly, the shifting in the c-6 is actuated by the vacuum modulator. Check this out: http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730/t ... oo+early--

Good looking truck. Core was probably good enough until it really got up to pressure. The good is that you now have a good core and that the heaters can be removed in a flash compared to most cars.

I don't think mine has ever rolled over, somewhere around 89,000. But the title is listed at 840,000 or so because the young person at the title bureau had never seen an odometer with a decimal place indicated by reverse colors. I did not notice until after I had the title and did not feel like goin...

I've put seats in that were out of the early - mid 90's. They have better foam/support. There was some fabbing to get them to mount. Don't recall the details. They were shorter than the stock seats when done.

You are going to have to add joints into your system. You could just shorten the steering column tube, cut the shaft, and add a d-joint that would allow you to move your current column closer to the dash. The other thing you could find is a dent side tilt column.

If you are reading low and have the smallest gear, you will need to eliminate friction in the speedometer or increase the magnetic charge in it. A good speedometer shop can take care of these things.

Might want to consider the silicone valve cover gaskets. Seal them to the valve covers with silicone sealant and use a slight coating of oil on the bottom side to allow for different expansion rates. If you are using stamped valve covers, might want to add the long distribution blocks to the bolts t...

They may not talk, but they know how to communicate!

I've used the second support brace and floor portion from a long bed. Its a decent nut not perfect match. The original ribs contour around the front bolts, and the middle section will be straight. The challenge is to find a donor floor.

I was unaware until recently about the early and later FE blocks. I have one of each sitting side by side and the difference is both minor and obvious at the same time. Glad you figured it out.

Looks like your truck is really starting to come together nicely. Amazing what a coat of paint will do, but its all the effort leading up to it that makes the difference.

You biggest issue with using any other transmission with a y-block is that the input shaft is longer on the y-block transmissions. You can bolt a lot of transmissions to the bell housing, but they won't enter the pilot bearing/bushing on the drive shaft. Mummert machines bellhousings so you can bolt...

I've repaired these areas with patches and my mig welder. Make sure you cut all the thin metal out, you'll just blow holes in it with the mig if its not the same thickness as your patch. If you fill in your location in your profile, someone may be able to recommend a shop in your area that could fix...

Check out the www.fordification.com site. Best information on this conversion is there. It is based on the 67-72 bump sides, but still applies to a slick. The front frame config is the same from 65-79.

There are no ball joints on any slicks - all kingpin based. I've always switched out everything from the later trucks so I have disk brakes as well as power steering and kept the whole setup consistent.

Be careful using straps across the top of the cab. I bent my drip rails doing this. Use something to keep the straps spread and pressure off the cab. X2 on the door alignment first. I was able to replace the floor on a '64 without removing the cab. You may want to get your patches in place first and...

The paint note was learned from experience with a tow bar, sure made a mess of the front of my sisters '54 F100 coming across the country. I am guessing trailers might have some of the same issues. Check out the prices on this site: http://www.sltrailers.com/M_T_Tilt_Trailers.html Looks like they ar...