Don't overlook the rest of the drivetrain. I know it would be simply coincidental, but double check your U-joints and the carrier bearing, if your truck has one. Normally, steering wheel vibration is coming from the front, and bad U-joints will make themselves evident from the seat of your pants - b...

On my '66, I have restomodded all the mechanical components, and am still working on body, but I got it to where I was real happy with it before I took it down for paint. With a 460-C6 in front of 3.25 gears, it has a great balance of power for towing and good mileage on the freeway. Of course, I ha...

You might try electrolysis. Worked nicely on some cast iron cooking pans for me once.

Correct, the rear axle dimensions are the same from '57 or '58 to '72. I know for sure you can swap '61 - '72 axles as a direct replacements. This includes all axles for F-100s and F-250s. (Note that if you change from a Ford 9" to a Dana or vice versa, the length of the differential gear housi...

I cannot really tell from the pictures, but if the valve cover gaskets do not fix it, look really really close at the intake manifold gasket where it mates to the head and block. I had this happen to me and it was frustrating to find - and the answer was quite simple once I located the real problem....

My misunderstanding. I thought NUMA NEWBERN was asking about independent front suspensions.

If I may volunteer my experience, I put '78 brakes on my (original) '66 axle housing. Well worth the trouble, too. The difference was really significant! By the way, all my information applies only to a Ford 9" axle. I have no experience with the Danas that were available. I used '78 backing pl...

I realize this does not answer your question, but are you aware that you cannot use the '66 half axles (axle shafts) with the '68 - '79 backing plates?

Well, and this is just my opinion, but for Twin I-Beam trucks, the factory disc brakes are pretty awesome. Ford truck parts for Ford trucks. Seems like a lot of unnecessary work for a minimal gain. I can see it for '64 and earlier trucks, but it just doesn't make sense to me to replace the factory s...

You will need to separate the two, or remove the secondary crossmember as the truck was not designed for the C-6 case. The secondary crossmember gets in the way, so that there is not enough room between the crossmember and the underside of the transmission hump to insert the transmission. The second...

I did this, yes, to my '66 before I started to disassemble the thing for restoration. Unfortunately, it seems I can no longer post pictures, but I still have a few of what it looked like. 1. Engine brackets - what engine do you have now? Harvest the factory brackets for your engine - AND GET THE COM...

Welcome to Slick 60s. Some thoughts on your questions. Cam - The stock cam is actually quite good, but if you are rebuilding, a good so-called "RV" type cam will give you a good balance of low end power and efficiency. Intake - The FE intakes are monsters because they weigh almost 100 poun...

If you are a veteran, check out USAA. Their service and prices cannot be beat by any competitor - but you need to be a vet. Former dependents of former vets are also eligible(even if you are no longer living with them, regardless of your age) , but the prices are higher. My dad was a vet, and I am a...

Yep. Very bad.
See Iceman's comment in post Number 2.

Excellent! Glad it is an easy fix for you, it is sure not fun to think about changing a gearbox.

I think the coupler is not the right one. I compared some photographs of my original steering setup, the Bendix PS setup I had for a couple of years, and the Ford/Saginaw power steering setup in there now, and they are all slightly different. Yours looks (or SEEMS to look) more like the one for the ...

Pre-bent lines will be for an original truck, with a single-pot master cylinder. If you are keeping the brakes original that should work fine. If your truck has - or has plans to have - a later dual master cylinder and/or disc brakes, the plumbing will be completely different. Ordering original line...

Disregard - I read the post incorrectly.

For my '66 2WD, I purchased a replacement from Advance as well, for a '78 F-150/250 with a 460.
Bolted up perfectly to the core support, and had the correct inlet/outlets for the 352 radiator hoses.

Are the perches in the front set of holes? If not, you may need to move the perches to the front set of holes.
If you can find a '68 - '79 truck with a factory 302, the placement of the perches' locations will be the confirmation you need.