I've made short sections for tailgate bottoms. I think you ought to be able to bend on around a pipe and maybe make it in two sections to make the bend more manageable. I'd clamp the pipe over the sheet metal or even drill a few hole and screw both to a workbench top. You also might look for a shop ...

I'm not far from Cinci, but already have plans. Did you choose the Pumpkin run because your vehicles are color coordinated? Still love your camper setup. Have fun.

I agree with your approach. I too have had one beautifully restored cars that I could not enjoy due to the concern about parking lot dings/damage. There needs to be a new category that covers an upgraded mechanical vehicle that is not a trailer queen. I have also been amazed at the progress you've m...

That's a much better starting point. Money well spent.

Wow! I just installed the photobucket fixer for chrome and all the pics are back! This may be the most important post ever! Thanks Jim!

My '66 f100 camper special has close to a 3.00 ratio, 352 and 4 spd. I got between 16 and 18 MPG at 65-70 mph driving it cross country. Moves just fine starting in second and I only use first for towing or pulling out a tree.

What material is the gasket? If it is neoprene or silicone, just a little oil on each side. They need to be able to move along the surfaces as they are being tightened.

I've used the mid-80s O/Ds in replacement for the std 3spds. I have a '77 truck 4 spd with creeper low that has the backup light connection, but do not know when these were introduced. I think it has the same bolt pattern as the similar unit from 66.

I am not aware of anyone personally who is on the wall, but recall what a humbling experience it was to visit it. Well worth the time to see and gain/refresh ones respect for the sacrifice provided by our military.

The slick steering wheels fit just fine. The collar parts are all interchangeable.

I can't say for sure, but have used columns from dentsides in slicks so I suspect everything up to '79 should be able to work with a little work. The dentside columns need to have the mounting flange moved from a slick column added in place of its flange. The 73 and later power steering columns are ...

There is also the chance the original axle tag is still attached which should provide all the information.

Impressive work. I've always found wiring to appear overwhelming if you look at a harness/system as a whole. It becomes fairly simple when you reduce your focus to a single circuit/use. I like your approach, thanks for taking the time to document this for the rest of us.

Even with the tank moved, there is not a lot of space behind the seats. I also like the idea of the slide out drawer. You are facing the dilemma that lead to the extended cab trucks. The door pockets cab provide some space for smaller items. The bedside toolbox has some decent room and these do come...

I have not done it, but have been told that you can swap the spindles from the dentsides (73-79) onto your straight axle. You'd have to make sure the kingpins were the same diameter, and may need some spacers. Hopefully someone on here has done this and will speak up.

I have one sitting in my garage. I think they are the same from at least 1954-1964 behind the y-blocks. I can take a pic sometime over the weekend.

It is a shame when you dedicate yourself to a career and do not get the same dedication in return. We all know how wildly capable you are and have seen the pride you put into both your career and hobbies. Things will get better!

I'll second Rich's opinion. You may be better off locating a solid cab rather than spending countless hours getting yours back into shape. That being said, I have patched cabs in similar shape to yours.

It all depends on what you want as a final result. It will be easier for the body shop to work if there is nothing in their way. This will also prevent overspray on your harness and firewall pad. It always fun trying to trace wires when they are the same color.

Looks good. Welcome from Ohio, what part of the midwest are you from?