Well, a couple of snags. AOD related stuff. I am leaking trans fluid at the bellhousing. I have never separated the trans from the engine, but I am guessing the seal around that shaft between torque converter and the transmission is bad. Anyone got an idea of how hard these are to replace? I am assu...

65's I believe are the same. I have heard that certain year falcons use the same part.

Finished getting the starter wired up today. Must have got it right, was able to bump the engine over using the key. Next steps: Oil & filter change, bump the engine over to build some oil pressure, installing plug wires, install serpentine belt, and hopefully start it. Other tasks: get some pow...

Paul, thanks for the comments. After sleeping on it, I will use a 10 or 12 gauge wire to run a separate wire to the blade connector. It is just a standard duty motorcraft starter, and like you said, probably could use a jumper. But I'm the type that would worry about it causing problems down the roa...

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Well, having problems posting pics. I will place in my album.

Starter I am using. A friend has suggested jumpering the small, flat blade lug to the bolt, but based on what most people online have written, that might invite problems down the road.

Still having problems with the starter. I can not get the starter to turn over when mounted to the trans/ring gear. With the starter removed, laying on the driveway, and using jumper cables it seems to work fine. Same starter as came with the donor engine, for a 91 T-bird w/ 5.0 EFI H.O. Starter wor...

I had not been able to do anything else on the truck until today. Finally got a nice day and some time to do something. Someone please verify for me the proper routing of battery cables and the ground cable. 1. Battery positive to front end of starter solenoid (end closest to battery & grille). ...

I personally would increase that "little" wire to at least the size of the one it's crimped to Otherwise, you have just created an unwanted fusible link, albeit only serving to completely eliminate an inadequate ground source. Paul I don't know the gauge of it, certainly isn't the size 2 ...

William-in-St George wrote:From engine block to the frame 2 gauge.

William-in-St George wrote:flat braided wire, cab to engine and same from bed to frame

I have those.

William-in-St George wrote: I also like a 2 gauge from the transmission tailshaft housing to the frame/transmission support.

Do you have a special speedo, or what is that one helping? Just curious.

I guess I forgot about the grounds at all the various lights and things like the heater, gauge cluster, etc. I am trying to finish my 5.0 swap, but couldn't get the engine to turn over. A friend suggested a ground from the negative cable to the inner fender. I tapped into that little wire that comes...

Where do you all have grounds on your trucks? I have one from engine to firewall, a second from battery to engine block. Maybe others I am not aware off. I am going to add a third ground from battery to inner fender. Any other locations I should have a ground?

Last couple items, I think:

Find and install a 88" or there abouts serpentine belt.

Prime the oil.

Finish installing the fuel filler door for under bed gas tank. (not really a must do as far as the 5.0 swap goes).

Add a few gallons of gas.

Have a fire extinguisher handy.

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the EC...

After posting this question I googled Ford power steering pump pulley removal and the video I saw led me to the same conclusion as you all have said. And thanks for verifying it. I have the tool, so guess it is just a matter of using it correctly. The Puller instructions gloss over this step, but ar...

My power steering pump has the fitting for the low pressure line broken off the reservoir. I have to remove the pulley to access the bolts that hold the pump to the acc mount. I can't get the pulley bolt off to even try and use a pulley puller (or whatever you call those things). I have a 3/8" ...

Update. I was hoping to start it today, or at least get it close so I could start it tomorrow. But several problems cropped up. 1. The bolt for the belt tensioner has been discontinued by Ford. It is 12 mm shoulder bolt, 91.5 mm long, and the last 25-30 mm would be threaded, the rest is not. Maybe o...

If you soak the bolts with a good penetrating fluid for a few days that should help. maybe try to tighten them slightly before removing them to break the bond.

I sent you a pm on the exhaust manifolds.

I saw that video before Randy, and I'm pretty confident I can sent the tension on the TV cable. I have done it on a Lokar cable plenty of times. My question is that the white plastic part where the black part of the cable ends; at this place the white plastic is broken on mine and so that the whole ...

Got a few things done today. Tuesday my BC Broncos cone air filter came, so mounted it today. It was 25.00+shipping, which was about another 50% tacked on, but still about half the price of a K & N. Need to oil it up yet. Finally finished the heater hose routing. With the TB and intake ducting o...

Planning on hitting the salvage yard tomorrow for a 73-79 auto column shifter linkage, Look forward to seeing what you come up with on this one because I need to do something similar. I would like to keep the column shift but don't want pull the shift lever out of the trans. I've studied the proces...