Shadow wrote:Try Packing Your Steering Box With Grease And Adjusting It. It's Amazing How Much Of A Difference It Will Make. .....

what weight of grease do these boxes require? i see an adjustment nut on the top of the box, do i fill it thru this opening?

hey banjo, i'll have to try your suggestion, could save a lot of time, effort and $ - thanks

Hey Mike,
I hear the crossmember tends to be an issue, i've got a rear main leak so i'm pulling mine.

sounds interesting, good luck with the challenge. i will admit, getting my aftermarket booster connected to my firewall did require some modified brackets

thanks for the info, I'll pry them off, carefully

I was curious if the '65/'66 fender emblems can be removed without taking off the fenders. I stuck my hand up there and I can feel two mounting pins protruding but I'm not sure what kind of fastener is used to attach these with. I can't detect any nuts holding these things on. Apologize for my ignor...

I went aftermarket with my disc brake/booster configuration on my '66. I heard of numerous situations where factory master cylinders that were rebuilt began to malfunction or leak prematurely. These issues can result from worn out units that are rebuilt over and over again and are just plain not reb...

glad to hear quality is top notch as these Slick steering wheels can get a real workout without power steering

Paul,
My truck was originally a three on the tree and now has a COM column with a 1969 C6. That explains it, I will just remove this neutral safety device and store it away.

Danny, Thanks for the con2r tip, I was seriously considering buying one of there wheels because they have the finger bumps on the back side of the wheel and they look vintage. supercj, I just sold a mustang pony wheel for $200 on ebay, was thinking of using it if I couldn't sell it for what I wanted...

Sorry guys, don't have a pic but I'm sure a few of you will know what I'm identifying. It's a black plastic thing with a spring loaded lever located on top of my COM column under the dash. It's mounted with two small screws and has a electrical connector coming off of it (disconnected). Do I need th...

welcome, looks to be a fairly original truck with factory air cleaner intact

Thanks for the advice Bruce, but I want to retain the factory Cruise o Matic column as I prefer the shifter and turn signal stalk to the newer columns.

Was wondering what 60's era factory Ford/Mercury steering wheels can be used on our trucks. I really don't want an aftermarket wheel but am looking for a flatter wheel than my stock one. It measures about 6" deep and I'd like something around 4" or less. I'm real tall at 6'6" and favo...

I'm sure George can handle the abuse every once in a while. I recently ran over a curb with my 66, tailgate proceed ed to open with a bang, the 352 died and I fired it back up and drove away discovering everything was fine, including my alignment.

build that 351C would be my opinion. get an aluminum dual plane intake, electronic ignition and a good exhaust system and i would think it would provide good torque and wouldn't have to work as hard as a 302 thereby potentially getting equal fuel economy vs. the 302 (maybe better economy with a load...

I'm beginning to think my 66 custom cab never had one. If it did, it must only have attachment points at each end near the pillars, that's the only place mine has any screws except, of course, for the dash speaker.

Mine has no evidence of ever having one installed, original paint on dash is in great shape. Also interesting that the speaker grill is not flush with the dash surface.

Was unable to upload pics thanks to my piece of junk LG phone but I just lowered my '66 in the front with DJM Dream Beams and I can tell you that the 235 50 15 tires on 7" wide wheels will not quite clear the fender lip in the event of considerable suspension compression. I've got about 1 1/2&q...

Thanks for the excellent responses, guys. I didn't realize that a tighter steering ratio would increase effort. But for me, the effort really isn't the problem, it's the amount of input required to turn the wheel. Especially at lower speeds and when manuevering in tight spots, the amount of cranking...