There was a windshield, kinda. FB post last week regarding an incorrect windshield. Might be just the ticket for you since it would be a good cheap candidate for cutting if not too distant. MY first guess is that it may have been a mis-labeled Econoline application, but haven't unpacked (or located...

We know that it is NOT a Loadomatic, both from the springs and the 12127 base part number. So, you are golden, should be no problem to match it up, and even if a Ford core, it is likely to have a different part number on the casting. I believe Pertronix DOES make a drop-in distributor; it may be pri...

Yep, that condenser is for radio suspression, Unfortunately the rated range makes it unsuitable for substitution for the distributor condenser, so just toss it! Blue wire looks to be adequate. Since I am counting only seven secondary wires, let's go ahead and open that point gap to about .025",...

First thought would be the bad condenser; sounds like it may have an internal short to ground when tightened. I can walk you thru extensive condenser testing , but you are probably better served by re-installing the old one. Idling/dying may well be the bad condenser coupled with in-sufficient dwell...

What??? That's unacceptable!

Yep

OK, gotta ask; did you jumper the starter relay cables with the hand-held switch, or did you jump from battery cable to small "s" terminal?
BTW, you have got me sitting here playing with an old switch and cylinder; as Pat said, sounds like it's really worn!

I would keep that remote starter switch nearby! Now there will be two dozen FB experts telling everyone how to fix a no-crank condition!

That continuous grounding will also damage the resistor wire, you may reach the point where you have diagnosed and repaired original problem, but have engine die immediately after releasing key from start position. If this proves the case, replace your pink, heavily insulated resistor wire under das...

Start simple, if coil is getting abnormally hot, something is grounding the primary circuit. Verify that points are in closed position (off cam lobe). Put a piece of paper between points contacts, turn key on, snatch paper out. There should be an obvious spark. If not, turn key off, remove primary w...

Check your primary wires from coil to points and to condenser. One or the other is continously grounding out, or the points themselves are grounding continuously.
..

"enginuity"

Diameter-wise a 205/75 15 is close. carcass width will be slightly wider than the 7.75. An 85 aspect ratio (85% as tall as overall width) would be closer, but would be a 195/85/15, commonly produced only in a trailer tire.

Guess I will have to find how to post pics here! I have the small radius fenders on my lifted short bed '66 F250. With both body and chassis lifts, my only issue is clearance at the front lower as mentioned. A very small pie-shaped cutout has in fact alleviated any potential problem. I have a stash ...

"Didn't happen"! It DID happen, I have worked on a handful, and owned several in the short term.

Tom, I've been battling it out with Discount again last week. When I purchased Continentals for the XK-R, I also purchased "replacement certificates", which at that time, made no reference to age, just wear. 14,000 miles later, not only are they saying the certificates are limited to 3 yea...

Fender radius is determined by original tire/wheel sizes. Thus, an F100 could have the larger radius fenders if ordered with large diameter wheels/tires. Naturally, F350's by default, had larger tires, so they all got the large radius fenders. For purposes of identification, horizontal fender openin...

Nope
Paul

I have had good experiences with the Hankook tires; might want to look at the date code for an idea of reason for failure; it's a common situation "down south" especially on a vehicle which has been setting up.
Paul

Yep, only ones I have ever encountered were U-haul trucks, and it seems they may have been the only ones to get them!
Paul