Well, this is very interesting! I do not know how the pressure gauge works in the article you described, it is completely out of my experience. I would have to read a lot more to better understand it. Thanks for posting about it! I can say, though, that it wasn't set up like this in the '60s. The ga...

On the 352, and I think on the 300-6, both sending units were on a "T" shaped plumbing arrangement out of one oil port. The 352 had them down near the oil filter stand, and the 300-6 on the side of the block. 289s and 302s had theirs in the same location as well. If I remember correctly, t...

That is ABSOLUTELY wrong. Each indicator needs its own separate ground. Both the gauge and the light use a ground, but through different sending units. Further, these two do not use the same voltage. This is how they work: Light: The light sending unit is an ON-OFF switch. 12V Power is fed full time...

I haven't used Rust Off, but I faced the same problem with my hood. Scaly rust up inside the nose of the hood - and elsewhere. First, instead of making a trough, I just sloshed the chemicals I used inside the nose and sides. I think it wasted a lot less that way. I also made sure the drain "ven...

Core support along the bottom - especially under the battery tray.
The "A" pillar under the bottom hinges.
Front of the cab roof

If you have a Ford 9" rear axle, by far the easiest and best way is to change out the center section. Usually about $100 for one from a junkyard, and and hour or two's worth of work. Good time to change out the rear axle seals while you are in there, and again, easy and inexpensive to do. Do yo...

Ford truck rear axle housings from the late '50s up to '72 are a direct bolt in replacement. (I think '58 is the start year.) If you use an exact replacement, such as replacing a Ford 9" with a Ford 9", then you will probably have no other issues. If you have Dana 44 5-lug in there now and...

I would be concerned about the '66 valve seats not being hardened and therefore not suitable for unleaded fuel. What year are the 360 heads? Check the casting number between the spark plug holes. Probably a C6 number on your earlier heads. If D2 or later on the 360 heads then it will have hardened s...

If your new camshaft is stock, then I wouldn't think that new springs are absolutely necessary, but it really is best. If the old springs are too weak, they may float which can cause you all sorts of engine problems. Anyway, the work you do for a valve grind job will repeat a lot of work you are doi...

You are quite welcome.
If the nut on the pulley is the problem, try hitting it with a short burst of the impact wrench. The pulley should just slip off then.

I wouldn't think so. The amperage rating is there to indicate how much the alternator can produce at maximum output. The voltage regulator controls how much amperage the systems needs to draw based on how much the voltage has dropped. The wiring is set up so that the alternator sends the charge to t...

I sure wish I had known all this years ago!
Sounds like it isn't that hard to install a hydraulic clutch.

Doc, I looked into the 5 speed OD sometime ago, but the modifications for the hydraulic clutch put me off. I don't have any fabrication skills, but if that isn't a barrier to you , then your results could be successful. I recently changed a clutch in a '96 F-150, 300-6 and 5 speed, so the memory is ...

Doc Pepper wrote: Actually, the wrecking yard owner is suggesting that I just remove the 1988 body from the frame and put my '65 body on it instead. But that is probably an even bigger job than just the transmission.

You are correct. The frame is wider and the body sits higher on it.

I think the keys are these:
Straight-up (pre-'72) timing chain
600 or 625 CFM carburetor
Good flow for intake and exhaust
DS II electronic ignition
Rear end ratio suitable to good freeway mileage, that the 460's power can overcome when hauling or towing
Good tune-up

I have been looking at changing out my 460/C6 with a 302/C4 for the very same reasons you mention - better mileage, especially around town. I think I have concluded that the cost will not be worth it, even if I could find a good running, dependable 302/C4 combination from a donor vehicle for less th...

I hope at least you can figure out if your gauges work right or not.
Best of luck.

You could do this with a (charged) battery and some wiring: Connect the input side of the IVR to a wire on the + positive side of the battery. Run a wire from the output side of the IVR to the + positive side of the TEMP, OIL (pressure) or FUEL gauge. One gauge at a time, of course. (Note: The + pos...

The stock TEMP, FUEL, and OIL pressure gauges use ~6V power from the IVR. Have you checked that it is working OK? As for the questionable TEMP gauge you have, have you tested it by - momentarily - grounding out the wire to sending unit? It should peg to the hot pretty quickly. Same for the fuel send...

I think the NSS on the transmission is probably the better way to go, but, you might also want to check the transmission you have, as to whether or not the case-mounted NSS will work with it. There are a couple of issues; I don't recall them all, and I may not be completely correct, but if I recall ...