Clutch equalizer parts

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charliemccraney
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Clutch equalizer parts

Post by charliemccraney »

Where can I find the items identified in the picture as washer, bushing, and bar assembly? They are not necessarily the parts circled. It's kinda urgent that I find these.

5577

If someone knows the ID of the tube, and the OD of the pivot, that will help, too. I might be able to make a sleeve to get me home.
Last edited by charliemccraney on May 16, 2013, 9:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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64low-n-slow
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Post by 64low-n-slow »

Charlie,

This might be very little help, but here you go.....the top-hat shaped bushing on the rod is nylon and those washers are a felt type material, when I took mine apart they were saturated with grease. With your skills you could probably fab something that would work just fine (maybe leather). The bushing you might find in a hardware or parts store. I am pretty sure Carpenter's does not have any of these but it might be worth a try. Good luck, let us know the outcome.....with pics!
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debauchee
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Post by debauchee »

LMC has the bushings but not the bar assembly or felt washers. They actually do have the assembly and washers but only for 68-72 so I'm guessing they wont work. If its just to get home, you really don't need the washers. As far as I can tell, they just help to hold in the grease.
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

the 67-72 linkage rods are the same size as the 61-66 so the bushings will work.same goes with the felt.

i get a lot of stuff like that out of later model trucks.
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Post by jwh f-100 »

When I was putting my truck back together I couldn.t find my felt washers so I improvised. I took a worn out 3M sctchbrite pad and cut 4 washers and put two at each end of the tube. Seems to hold the grease in just fine and looks correct.
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62galxe
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Post by 62galxe »

are your bushings brass or plastic. my 65 has a plastic ball that sticks in the tube. my 63 used a split brass bushing that fit around the ball then stuck in the tube. check here for parts I saw them on this link. Just dont know if there plastic or brass.
http://www.classicautoparts.com/pdfinde ... pdf#page=1
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

I don't know what the bushings are because they aren't there. I guess that's why it wore through the tube. However, I think I've located bushings and felt.
Does anyone know if a 63-64 equalizer bar will work on my '61? Apparently they're different.

At lunch, I'm going to pull the equalizer off. I suspect that the failure that occurred today was a result of the remaining metal bending. I'm going to bend it back, and use hose clamps to hold it in place. Hopefully that'll get me 3.5 miles home.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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Michelle
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Post by Michelle »

Ken is right, I have one truck with brass bushings and one with plastic, I replaced the plastic with brass.
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

2wdf100/250 61-64 should be the same
4x4 /f350 are different
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Post by Riverside Racer »

Take a look at the NPD online catalogs for Mustangs.

http://www.npdlink.com

I need the pictures!

That's where I picked up my felt washers. The BIG block Mustangs use a larger diameter than the small blocks ones.

They have a truck catalog too.
66 F-100, Short Bed Styleside, 352 V8 Auto Trans
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

Well, the clamp idea was good, but it was just too much pressure. I'm gonna 1st gear it to a friends house who is a little closer, only a mile or so. There I will be able to work on it at a little less frantic pace. Perhaps I'll just go ahead and try the hydraulic setup. I've been wanting to.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
ICEMAN6166
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

someone did a hydraulic throwout bearing and eliminated all of the linkage pieces.
tells about it here, starting a few posts from the top
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... ut+bearing
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
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spstack
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hydro clutch

Post by spstack »

ok now for those who missed it on my earlier post the hydro setup i have on my 63 is EXTURNAL no dropping the trans involved !!! please check novack engineneering or do a search for novack clutches they have the bracket and slave cyclinder as fot the master i went with a willwood INPORTAINT make shure that the bores is the same diameter or it will not be correct . it work verywell on my 63 and will ease your leg pains anyquestion pm me and will get you going oh the install is very simple
1234 sps
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

Ok, it is safely at my friend's house.

Actually, I was thinking I'd go with the setup that came on the big trucks. It can't be any worse than the mechanical linkage which I really don't have a problem with. Or can it?
My Firebird has a similar setup and I like it.

I can't validate the $450 price for the Mcleod bearing. My experience with new stuff is not good. If I can find several people who have used one on a daily diver for years and has racked up 20k plus miles with no problems, then I'd consider trying it. So far the only people I've met who use them have show cars that barely come out to play.
Given the relative complexity involved in replacing it when compared to an external slave, it's just not something I want.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

I just discovered I can get a new slave cylinder locally. If I use a 1958 F100 as the application, it shows that the master cylinder has a 1 1/16" bore and the slave cylinder has a 1 " bore. Of course, the '58 master cylinder will not bolt up to my firewall. Anyone know if the use of a 1" brake master cylinder will cause a problem? The benefit will be less effort but a potential problem is that the slave will not move far enough to disengage the clutch. Otherwise, I'd have to have one shipped.

With 1 1/16" master, 1" of piston travel = 1.129" of slave piston travel.
And, of course the 1" master will equal 1" of slave travel.
Anyone know how far the clutch fork travels to disengage the clutch?
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
ICEMAN6166
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Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
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Post by ICEMAN6166 »

the 58 mc should bolt up to the 61-64 firewall, unless its drastically different from a 60 and i dont think so.
the holes are there, they have knockout plugs to the right of the brake mc
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1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
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Cam Milam
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

The '58 mc has 4 bolt holes. It would probably bolt in place of the brake mc with the plate removed. So then I can just swap the roles of the pedals :D
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

I know I've seen a clutch master cylinder for our trucks in various catalogs. It looks very much like the brake master cylinder. Now I can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find one? Or, if anyone has one on the shelf, can you measure the bore?
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
ICEMAN6166
Posts: 11470
Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
User avatar
charliemccraney
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Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
Location: Lawrenceville, GA

Post by charliemccraney »

Unless I'm overlooking it, they list only the '57-'60 master cylinder which fastens with 4 bolts.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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