To Disc, or not to Disc?

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To Disc, or not to Disc?

Keep the drums?
11
21%
Go with Discs?
41
79%
 
Total votes: 52

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DV65CustomCab
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Post by DV65CustomCab »

Greg D wrote:Why are drums OK on the rear?
When you apply the brakes the momentum shifts the weight forward. This decreases the weight on the rear wheels.
Under hard braking if the friction is the same on the front & rear brakes the rears will lock up because there not enough weight/traction to override the brakes. A proportioning valve helps too - it's necessary on some vehicles.
Modern cars that have rear discs also have anti lock brakes - you probably wouldn't want to adapt one of those to your truck.
My truck doesn't presently have a prop valve. This same brake system was fine on the Uni, untested on the 64. I drove the Uni on water, snow, ice, and of course dry pavement - I had NO problems with the rears locking too easily. I also have a pretty serious difference in the front & rear tire sizes. The big rears have more traction and need a bigger brake than the smaller fronts - sort of has the same effect as the prop valve. This was "estimated" on my part and it seems to be fine. That doesn't mean it'll work on the 64 or another truck - the long wheel base helps too.

This is exactly right.
Rear discs without ABS on a pickup aren't really going to be an improvement. Car systems frequently have a totally different proportioning valve arrangement as well. These trucks use a pressure sensitive valve, where the cars I've worked on with 4 wheel discs use a valve that is tied into body deflection, i.e. when the nose dives and the rear jacks the valve mechanically can detect this. They are mounted at the rear axle.
On a truck, unless you're hauling something the front brakes really are the only ones that matter. Rear drums on trucks were factory fine for decades and no one complained about bad brakes, provided the fronts were disc. It's difficult to make a ABS system work with drums, which is really the only reason you see 4 wheel disc brakes on trucks now.
Stop The Longbed Hate! :)
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
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charliemccraney
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Location: Lawrenceville, GA

Post by charliemccraney »

I'm curious, who here has has actually swapped to rear discs and was it worth it?
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
cdherman
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 6:36 pm
Location: Parkville MO (KC)

Post by cdherman »

One other thing to consider: What are your rim choices? If you intend to keep a stock look, with stock rims, and you never are going to tow or haul payload, then keep the drums. The stock rims have issues with disk brakes...

Otherwise, I vote front disks. Rear disks are overkill and not with the money or trouble. In fact, in dusty/sandy environments, the rear disks wear out faster than drums..

But WHATEVER you do, replace the single cylinder master cylinder. Its a true safety issue. I personally blew a line on a single pot master, while stopping to avoid a semi. This occured in the 70's when I was a teenager. I did not think fast enought to use the emergency brake, but I did manage to throw the tranny in Park and the semi swerved as well..... It was NOT fun......

Most concourse events will actually accept this modification and not deduct points. Its that fundamental....
1965 F-100 240 Autolite 1101, Disk brake dual master upgraded, swapped over to C4 and powersteering. Bought by my Dad new in March 65'

1683

Planned/considered upgrades:
Perhaps power brakes, 300 I6 motor and JUST maybe, AC!
jhewitt
Posts: 130
Joined: August 17, 2008, 2:18 pm
Location: SOUTH OF Atlanta Georgia

Post by jhewitt »

I have purchased the MPBrakes REAR Disc brake conversion and all the supposed parts to convert the front to discs, have yet to install because I am waiting and looking for a shop in my area that can install it all along with all new hard lines. Unfortunately, I have yet to find and be confident, so I just had a local shop put new shoes with wh cylinders on with self adjusters, I let the shop do all the cussing this time, forget dealing with all the pain in the butt springs etc
Griffin GA 1965 F100
Have 3, one daily driver others in different state of repair/disrepair
LA 66
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Location: NW Florida (p'cola)
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Post by LA 66 »

I voted for discs.

Most of us own these trucks to drive them and even WORK them. Around here you can't maintain a safe following distance in highway traffic. If you back off the car in front of you, someone just fills the hole. Very uncomfortable if you have 4wheel drums and a load/trailer.

I'm actually planning a 4 wheel disc setup w/ hydroboost. My truck pulls a car hauler and hopefully a small Airstream soon. I want to be able to change the brake bias based on the weight on the rear of the truck.
William in LA (Lower Alabama)

1966 F100 SB - 352/3spd
1965 F100 SB CC - sold
1966 F100 SB CC - sold
1966 F250 Work body - sold

1967 F100 SB CC - 360/C6 - sold
1971 F100 Long Flareside - 390/4spd - sold
1972 F100 XLT Ranger - 360/C6 - Gramp's old truck

Plus '53 CJ3B, '54 CJ3B, '67 CJ5, '70 Jeepster, '71 Jeepster
ckelley1962
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Joined: July 29, 2015, 3:16 pm

Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by ckelley1962 »

I would love to change the fronts on my F350 dump truck to disk but I can't find an option that is reasonable. Any suggestions out there? Will the ones on that F250 work?
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unibody madness
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by unibody madness »

I have both styles on my unibodies.
Without a doubt I would add some form of power assist. First thing is to replace all rubber lines,flush and bleed brake lines if metal lines pass inspection.
One of my swb unibodies will stop on a dime with just the addition of vacuum assist.
The 'Turk' has a 79 cordoba IFS with V.A., front disk, and stops great with rear drums/proportioning
valve.
My Lwb w/V.A., drums, started locking up the rear brakes,(5000 lbs.), so I am gathering parts to cleanse brake lines and replace rubber hoses.
Original brakes need more room to stop, more maintenance, and more foot force.
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944

It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
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Toyz
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by Toyz »

Discs are a big advantage around here; they are more fade resistant and less affected by water. If you actually think rear brakes do very little, just wait until you have a significant load and experience a rear brake failure! The reason disc brakes are now found on most vehicles are manifold, but mostly has to do with the above factors, ABS assisted or not. Counting on the same wheels for steering and total braking power just doesn't seem a palatable concept IMO.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
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Toyz
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by Toyz »

As to "friction", I beg to differ! Normally front brakes have more swept area than rear regardless of design and often larger cylinder bores. Thus the ratio of braking front to rear is maintained. Personally, If I were to experience unexpected brake lock-up, I would much rather have it on the rear. I agree with Charley and others; the concept of " too much braking" eludes me, given a balanced system.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
R Pope
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by R Pope »

Having had a few disc brake Ford trucks, I was never impressed with their stopping power. Drums work as well or better. Discs on the rear are terrible on gravel or dirt roads around here, the rocks flipped up by the front wheels get in the works and grind the pads and discs to death in no time. Many new GM trucks had 4 wheel discs, they got traded in real quick when the rear brake repair bills started pouring in.
chris401
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by chris401 »

I don't drive like I used to so drums work find for me. When I swaped the F100 to disc and the wider rear drums my stoping distance was about 20%+ shorter.
Chris
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Gary Seymour
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by Gary Seymour »

There is nothing wrong with drum brakes that are up to snuff and adjusted properly, especially if your truck is stock and you intend to maintain it as a stock truck. There is definitely something to be said for keeping a truck all original.

I did the disc swap and dual master cylinder because I am building what I consider to be a hot rod, it was vey easy to do, and I consider it a nice upgrade. Plus, it was part of my plan all along.
64f100sixcylinder
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Re: To Disc, or not to Disc?

Post by 64f100sixcylinder »

polls are as stupid as keeping drum brakes
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