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PostPosted: June 26, 2013, 12:27 pm 
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I have some problems. Some new and some existing. I have no dash lights, and no turn signals. Additionally, sometimes when I turn the key to the "OFF" position, the truck still runs. These are existing problems. My new problems are sometimes a new battery wil be stone dead AND not take a charge so it must be replaced. If I drive it, it may just shut off as if I turned the ignition off. One one occasion when the battery died I noticed that the coil was leaking oil and no longer made spark.

My theory:

Dash lights and turn signals go through the ignition switch (right?)
A key left "ON" can drain a battery, but will it cause it to short out?
A key left "ON" with the points open can fry a coil without harming the points and condensor (right?)
Truck sometimes runs after the key is in the "OFF" position
Truck has been know to turn off with the key in the "ON" position

So, asking the powerful Slick Minds...... Is my ignition switch the culprit? It is only 48 years old.

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PostPosted: June 26, 2013, 12:44 pm 
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all power goes thru the switch, though a few accesories such as headlights run off the incoming power lead, allowing use without the key being in on or acc position

i dont think your battery is actually shorting out but just gets too low and rundown to take a charge

leaving the key on will allow the coil to overheat and fry it and the points and condensor

dash lights and turn signals have fuses, but the wire to them coming off the back of the ign switch may be bad

i do think its time for a new switch

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PostPosted: June 26, 2013, 4:12 pm 
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Dash illumination lights, if you are referring to those instead of "idiot" indicator lamps, come off the light switch and are independent of the ignition switch. Coil should not burn up with open points unless grounding elsewhere. How have you determined the points were open? If the points were arcing, then both points and coil are subject to failure.
First off the wall guess would be a bad switch or that someone has wired the ignition in a way to allow a backfeed from either charging system or another unswitched source allowing either run-on or battery drain. Turn signals could be part of the switch problem; dash illumination lamps probably not. If talking of the "idiot" lights, they are ignition switch controlled.
Paul

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PostPosted: June 27, 2013, 6:58 am 
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Check your bulbs. I had to replace every dash bulb in my '66. Dash lights are also controlled by the light switch with its rheostat. These do go bad. The last one I got was from NAPA. Turn signals can be harder to track down. It could be the flasher, the switch or you might not have enough draw for the flasher if the from marker light bulbs are not working.


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PostPosted: June 27, 2013, 7:04 am 
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I am referring to dash illumination lights, not the idiot lights. I never thought of clarifying, sorry. As far as points open, I guessed as it has always been my thought that the points opened to fire the coil, is that not correct? The dash dash lights are an existing problem that I was wondering (after discussion with a friend) if could be related to a faulty ignition switch.

These problems developed after more than a year of the truck being returned to use. I don't believe it was hacked as it's been in my family since about 1980 and all "known" problems have been discussed at length. I understand with the truck being so old that things can get done and forgotten or information not being passed down over generations, so nothing will be rulled out without investigation!

Thanks for the help guys.

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PostPosted: June 27, 2013, 7:10 am 
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bruceandersson wrote:
Check your bulbs. I had to replace every dash bulb in my '66. Dash lights are also controlled by the light switch with its rheostat. These do go bad. The last one I got was from NAPA. Turn signals can be harder to track down. It could be the flasher, the switch or you might not have enough draw for the flasher if the from marker light bulbs are not working.


Thanks Bruce. Glad you mentioned that as I have an additional problem that I forgot to mention. At about the same time the ignition started acting up I lost brake lights. I ran a jumper from the battery to the brake light switch on the master cylinder to check them. With this jumper, my turn signals worked intermittently. I understand that ALL of these problems may not be related to each other, just seems strange that most of them came about within a few days of each other or that I noticed them within a few days of each other.

Again, thanks for the help!

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"So I'm working on a cistern inlet valve and the guy hands me a lock nut wrench! I was like 'What is this, a drainpipe slipknot!'" -Flo


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PostPosted: June 27, 2013, 11:16 am 
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If your dash lights don't come on when you turn the knob, you can do a little test. Pull the light switch and take some 600- 400 grit sand paper a a tiny strip of paper. Run it between the the rheostat contact and the spring deally. You will notice it when you see it. It controls your dash lights when you turn the knob. Clean the contacts. If that gets your dash lights running then you more the likely have a small bit of corosion going on. It happens especially when the truck sleeps for awhile. I would start there just to save a few bucks. If not then at least you now know you need to spend some money.


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PostPosted: June 27, 2013, 12:05 pm 
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Brake lamps are fed thru the turn signal switch to allow the rear turn signal to work when brake lamps are active. Front turn signals and dash turn indicator is on a separate circuit from the t s switch. The t s flasher provides the input for the turn signals. Diagnosis should start at the fuse, then the flasher, then the ts and brake output wiring from the t s switch.
The brake lamps on our trucks are powered by the ignition switch, so many of your problems may be at the switch or feed from battery. You might pull the swich and closely examine the terminals and wiring as a start. Don't overlook the possibility of a poor connection at the starter solenoid.
Paul

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