Voltage Drop

[Mr. Jones]

I have a post dated 4/4/14 which explains the problem my truck has.Today I started checking the voltage from battery(12.59)to solenoid(12.20)to ignition(12.9)to coil(5.97)At the coil I took a reading with key on,from the + to - posts.I'm not sure if thats the correct method.If that's wrong then what's the right way.Also at the solenoid I removed all the hot side wires and cleaned with. some 150 sandpaper,same at the ignition and snugged up the nuts.
Still haven't figured out the ohm business yet.The multimeter I posted on 4/14 is toast,I'm now using the Harbour Fraight cen-tech.I have no experience at electrical trouble shooting.
I would like to thank everyone who took the time to answer my first two posts.Most of what I read is way over my head.
Thanks Again,
Dan

Something else I just thought of. 4/11/06 Hunt Electrical Co. here in Kansas City replaced the 55 amp alternator with 95 amp 3g Ford alt. and did away with voltage regulator.How do I check that if it doesn't run?

[F7BIGJOB]

For resistance checking, do all positives then all negatives, either order is ok. Set your voltmeter to dc ,take one lead and put it on battery post, the other lead to the cable [ yes right on the side of it] you should see 0.04 or less 0.01 is better, if showing voltage, ie: 1-12 volts, remove cable and clean. Now leave one probe on battery post and follow that lead to the end, if you get 1-12 volts, cable is corroded internally and will have to be replaced. Did this over the phone with Tim [rhodyslick] and he was amazed on how well this worked. Do the same on the ground side too, once you get it all to 0.01-0.04, go to the engine to frame, etc. Getting rid of any voltage showing 1-12 [static] will make all the difference in cranking, running charging etc. If you need more info let me know, it may take abit, but somewhere I have a fantastic book showing step by step in pictures what I'm talking about, that I can scan and post.--Just have find it

[Toyz]

Dan, to check the primary voltage at the coil , you need to jump the - side of the coil to ground, hook positive meter lead to + terminal of coil, ground the - tester lead, turn key on and read voltage.
Sounds like you are doing great on your voltage drop checks; I'm not sure how you got more voltage at ignition than at battery, however???
Paul