Hood Hinge Question

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Hookedtrout
Posts: 797
Joined: February 9, 2011, 8:02 pm
Location: Southeast Idaho

Re: Hood Hinge Question

Post by Hookedtrout »

A little update success on my hood, I was looking at the hood latch and noticed the teeth that collapse on the ring attached to the hood to hold it down looked worn pretty bad and someone over time had welded on the ring to build it back up. I went out and checked my parts Uni and both looked like new so I swapped them out and loose front hood corners gone! It shuts down nice and tight on the new rubber bump stops now!!
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
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Hookedtrout
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Joined: February 9, 2011, 8:02 pm
Location: Southeast Idaho

Re: Hood Hinge Question

Post by Hookedtrout »

Also while taking the hood latch and ring off the parts truck I was looking at the Y-Block and noticed it is a Mercury engine or at least it has Merc valve covers, thought that was pretty neat, I plan to pull it and rebuild it if it's in good enough shape at some point and swap it out with the 223 in the short box Uni I'm rebuilding.
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
Leeroy
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Joined: July 12, 2009, 3:52 am
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Australia

Re: Hood Hinge Question

Post by Leeroy »

This is great info cause mine does what you described.

I was looking at the hood latch and noticed the teeth that collapse on the ring attached to the hood to hold it down looked worn pretty bad


But are you talking about replacing the catch/lock infront of the radiator support or the pin on the actual hood? Or both?
ICEMAN6166
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Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Re: Hood Hinge Question

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

Leeroy wrote:This is great info cause mine does what you described.

I was looking at the hood latch and noticed the teeth that collapse on the ring attached to the hood to hold it down looked worn pretty bad


But are you talking about replacing the catch/lock infront of the radiator support or the pin on the actual hood? Or both?


the u shaped ring on the hood itself can get worn pretty badly from being loose and vibrating i have seen them with big grooves in them.

the teeth fom the latch on the upper valance will eat right thru over time

since the latch is mounted on a angle you can loosen it up and pull it forward (down) just a bit the teeth will then grip tighter on the ring.
when your done just make sure that both the latch and the safety catch are working properly and the hood is tight.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
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John Sutton
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Hookedtrout
Posts: 797
Joined: February 9, 2011, 8:02 pm
Location: Southeast Idaho

Re: Hood Hinge Question

Post by Hookedtrout »

I replaced both. The catch lock was worn bad and the hole when latched was double the size of the one in the donor truck and to compensate the PO had welded a big gob of weld on the pin. So I replaced them both and adjusted the pin and slamed her shut and it's tight as a drum on the front corners.

Leeroy wrote:This is great info cause mine does what you described.

I was looking at the hood latch and noticed the teeth that collapse on the ring attached to the hood to hold it down looked worn pretty bad


But are you talking about replacing the catch/lock infront of the radiator support or the pin on the actual hood? Or both?
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
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