352 cam selection

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66CCTWIN
Posts: 11
Joined: March 21, 2014, 5:19 am

352 cam selection

Post by 66CCTWIN »

I'm restoring a 66 f-100 that I've owned since 1986, have the original sound running hardly ever touched 352 that's due for a complete overhaul, does anyone have recommendation of a cam that will increase performance and efficiency over the stock grind? Long lasting reliable service is more important to me than wringing out a few more horsepower, I'm retaining the stock intake and 2 bbl as well as stock manifolds. Also I'm retaining the original automatic trans, always pulled ok but never was thrilled with the way it shifts. Any recommendations on improving these old cruise o matics? Thanks for any help!
bruceandersson
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Location: Ohio

Re: 352 cam selection

Post by bruceandersson »

I have not dealt with cam changes, but believe changing out the intake and exhaust to improve airflow will go a long way to improve the efficiency of a motor. 4 bbls are more efficient than a 2 bbl since they can run on smaller venturis until you put your foot into it. An OD transmission would also help at cruising speeds.
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banjopicker66
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by banjopicker66 »

Welcome to Slick 60s.

Some thoughts on your questions.
Cam - The stock cam is actually quite good, but if you are rebuilding, a good so-called "RV" type cam will give you a good balance of low end power and efficiency.
Intake - The FE intakes are monsters because they weigh almost 100 pounds. Difficult to re-install leak-free without a cherrypicker. Get a good dual plane aluminum one with about a 475-550 4-bbl carb and you can really wake it up.
Exhaust - As mentioned, this is a good place for improvement. One drawback with headers, though, is that they hug the starter. This overheats the starter and burns them out quickly, and to replace it, the header must be removed. I think there are other solutions, though.

COM - If going to all this trouble, I would suggest you change over to a C6 transmission. It is beefier, easy to rebuild and almost bulletproof. The COM on the other hand is getting more and more expensive to rebuild, and parts seem to be getting harder to find - not to mention a knowledgeable COM mechanic.

And, having said all this, consider strongly to buy a '73 - '79 Ford truck with the engine and transmission combination you want. Available engines from the factory were the 300-6, 302, 351M, the 400 and 460. You can use a 351W as a bolt-up replacement in place of a 302, but it wasn't offered until later.

If you really want to stick with the FE engines - get a '73-'79 CORRECTION: '73 - '76 for a 390. '76 was the last year the FE was produced. with 4-bbl 390 and rebuild it. It will come with a C-6 (if not a stick)

This option, if you look for the right truck will also get you all the parts you need to upgrade to power steering, power disc brakes and under-hood parts for air conditioning. Then you can sell the rest of the truck and often make a lot on the parts you do not want.

This worked for me, so take it if it will help you out.
Last edited by banjopicker66 on August 20, 2014, 6:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
chris401
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by chris401 »

A member on the FE forum told me he got 15 or 16 from his 352 with a stock 410 cam. He kept the logs, unsure of intake. My best was 14mpg @ 65mph from a completly stock 352. Top speed was 80 pulling an empty dump trailer.
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ThinLizzy13
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

The 65 F100 shortbed I had with a stock 352 and 3 spd would consistently get 13-14 mpg on the highway at around 65-70. Probably would've been better if I didn't drive it so hard.
banjopicker66 wrote:Exhaust - As mentioned, this is a good place for improvement. One drawback with headers, though, is that they hug the starter. This overheats the starter and burns them out quickly, and to replace it, the header must be removed. I think there are other solutions, though.

I had alot of problems with my starter not working after I had driven it for a while. I put a heat shield around the starter and that seemed to help out quite a bit with starting it after it was hot.
'63 F100 223 3OT
‘20 F150 XL
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brute66
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by brute66 »

I'm considering putting an aftermarket cam in my 66' shortbed 352 as well. Currently it's totally stock. I've acquired Hedman Elite headers and intend to use an aftermarket hi-torque mini starter to ease installation. I also have a factory Police Interceptor dual plane alum intake and will use a small four barrel probably about 600 to 650 cfm. I'd like to get improved mileage so that means the profile will be rather tame. The temptation of cam with a noticeable idle will always exist but I have to resist if I want improved economy. It's been a while, but I've looked at offerings from Comp Cams, Crower, Crane and even Lunati but I'm leaning towards an Isky. Since my exhaust system will be optimized (plan on running 2 1/2 pipes with an H pipe) I may go with a single pattern grind with around 210 degrees at .050 lift and probably no more than about .475 lift. I do not remember what the Isky specs were for the cam I selected. Someone suggested getting an aftermarket intake, avoid the Edelbrock Performer because it's too restrictive; opt for the Performer RPM. It's a much better intake. Let me know if this helps, seems like we have similar needs.
MeZapU
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Location: Mary Esther, FL

Re: 352 cam selection

Post by MeZapU »

A little late to the game but I have some input.

Back when I still had a COM I had(and still have) a Comp Cams XE-256H HFT cam. It worked really well with the truck, transmission, and 3.50 gears in my opinion. Gave a nice lope but can still hold a smooth idle. In neutral it would idle at 600, and in gear 550 or so. With the stall of the stock torque converter that's where it liked to be. I had lifter issues with the Comp lifters and installed some parts store Perfect Circle tappets and all has been fine for 3+ years, You will need to run matching valve springs, retainers and keepers, but the stock stuff was so weak, you should change them anyways along with new valve guide seals. Also install a Cloyes True roller timing chain. It fits perfectly. The Summit Racing one I tried first had the same amount of slop as the bazillion mile stocker that I removed.

I cruise and even tow with my truck and it acts just like a truck. Fires right up with a stab of the gas and twist of the key. No temperment associated with a lumpy cam. The small cam I believe is about perfect and it even works well with my new Tremec 3550 and power disc brakes.

Here are a few videos of it running.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU3VUHd ... 03PtkpuQpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfoSSid ... 03PtkpuQpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7moUFnf ... 03PtkpuQpg
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed, Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, Fitech EFI
bruceandersson
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by bruceandersson »

The other issue you have as far as mileage goes is the old hat auto whether com or c6. Using one with od and lockup will gain you back a couple mpg.
66CCTWIN
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Joined: March 21, 2014, 5:19 am

Re: 352 cam selection

Post by 66CCTWIN »

Thanks for the comments MeZapU, I'm curious what issues you had with the comp lifters, did they get noisy? Also do you have stock intake and exhaust manifolds or 4 bbl and headers? Thanks
kevin steidle
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Re: 352 cam selection

Post by kevin steidle »

My 64 4x4 and 65 2 wd c6 a 352 / 20 over rv cam /2 bbl ford carb i think a 2100 12mpg runs strong go for it... lots of powr love the old fe truck motor drive all the time...
MeZapU
Posts: 138
Joined: November 10, 2011, 10:53 pm
Location: Mary Esther, FL

Re: 352 cam selection

Post by MeZapU »

66CCTWIN wrote:Thanks for the comments MeZapU, I'm curious what issues you had with the comp lifters, did they get noisy? Also do you have stock intake and exhaust manifolds or 4 bbl and headers? Thanks


Not sure what happened with the lifters. Just bad QC I think. Summit Racing warranted them out (I was surprised) so I have a brand new set to install when I build my new motor. I have a video of how to diagnose bad hydraulic lifters with the rest of my videos on youtube. After the engine would warm up(oil thinned out), the lifters got noisy. I said Crane cams lifters in the video but they were Comp Cams lifters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tl9oDaM ... 03PtkpuQpg

I did some port work on my heads, have a Performer RPM intake, Summit 600 vs carb and some cheap headers. MSD 6a box with a pertronix ignitor in the recurved distributor. NGK spark plugs. I had problems with the Autolite 45s causing misfires. With a smaller Performer 390 intake you would likely get more low end torque and may be a better runner, but I'm soon to build a 390 shortblock and I never heard anything bad about the RPM intake having poor low end, so I took the plunge. I don't like leaving any power on the table. No complaints. The engine won't turn the earth but I must admit it runs really great. The stock manifolds are pretty terrible. I swapped them out as soon as I could. I never ran the cam with any of the stock top end parts.
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed, Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, Fitech EFI
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