Tail Lights

[Toyz]

That is correct, and the bulb is correct if originally equipped with alternator. It still requires a dual element for the two independent functions, turn (bright), and park (dimmer), and in order for both to function at the same time. Generator trucks were equipped with a 1034 dual element bulb. Federal law mandated that parking lamps remain illuminated with the headlamps starting with the 1968 models, although European vehicles had that feature earlier.
Paul

[F164]

Im working on disconnecting the steering column wiring harness. Everything is painted so I have to number all the wires first.

I found these wire tucked under the dash not connected to anything. Any idea what they are for? 1964 F100.

[F7BIGJOB]

Neutral saftey switch? [do you have an automatic?]

[F164]

It is an automatic.

Where does it connect?

[Toyz]

Can you post a pic of the entire column? Something looks strange.
Paul

[F164]

What you see in the pic is the wire loom coming off the column, it was painted, it should be black.

Just above the column support I have a gauge pod.

AFAIK the column is correct and original to he truck. 1964 F100 Flareside 292/AT

Some progress:

I removed the front turn signal lamps (1157) and cleaned the contacts. They fit back into the sockets very loose, I had to fiddle with them to get them to come on. They now work as they should, however the slightest bump and they go off. Am I going to have to replace the buckets? Could this be the source of the problem with the rears?

I also pulled the cluster today, I have to replace a cracked speedo lenses and its easier to see whats under the dash with the cluster out. My heater blower doesn't come on either, but that's for another day.

BTW: Everything on the column & cluster seems to work correctly. I get indicator lights for highbeam, L&R turn signal, headlights work, horn works. fuel and temp gauge work, but I have never seen the oil and gen lights on, even when cranking the engine.

[Toyz]

Sounds like progress! I believe you are on the right track, sounds as if the bulbs still don't have a secure ground. As stated, both filaments lighting when only one should is usually a ground issue. Replacement sockets should be available in the "Help" or Dorman sections of your local auto parts if you do not want or need to replace the entire buckets.
Oil lamp is pretty straight forward, check power to bulb, then bulb itself. Alt or gen lamp; check as for oil lamp, if not those problems, probably need to consult a wiring diagram to understand the circuitry. An upgraded charging system will often be wired bypassing the lamp, but it should still glow with switch on if it has power and good bulb.

Paul

[Toyz]

The PO may have removed bulbs and power if the gauge pod includes pressure and charge gauges.
Paul

[unibody madness]

If the sockets are loose you can try lightly pinching them closed for a tighter fit(fixing the ground).
Dash lights need to ground to the dash at the plastic bulb socket.
Generator and oil pressure, ground at the sending unit, black and green wire from both go through the gauge voltage regulator at the bottom of the speedo assembly, assuming you have the round speedo

[F164]

I ordered new buckets today from DC. $35 each, I don't have to cut and splice and they should last the rest of my life. I ordered a new fuel pump as well, that took my order to $100 for free shipping.

[chris401]

X2 on all the diagnostic post. Williams advice on regrounding is soilid. It saves you time down the road.

[unibody madness]

F164, I posted:

Generator and oil pressure, ground at the sending unit, black and green wire from both go through the gauge voltage regulator at the bottom of the speedo

I apologize, they connect to the black and green wire that goes to acc. on your ignition switch.
Sorry for the confusion

[F164]

I haven't had time to work on the light problem.

Today I received the new front turn signals from DC. The quality looks great, hopefully I can get them installed tomorrow, then back to working on the rear lights.

[F164]

Some progress today.

I went in the garage and turned the lights off so it was pitch black.

I cycled through all the combinations of the light switch, turn signals and brake lights.

I get power to the lights in every configuration, but its backwards. For example, I get brake lights but they are dim, the tail lights are much brighter. When the park lights are on, in the front the brighter element is the park light and the dimmer element is the turn signal.

I don't think its a ground problem, I think something is not connected properly.

I don't see any splices in the original harness.

The only thing I can think of is that the turn signal harness is defective or improperly connected. It was painted when the truck was painted so I have a hard time making out the wire colors.

Are the wire colors for a 64 the same as a 65/66?

Suggestions?

[Toyz]

Well, we are approaching the point at which "diagnosis via internet" has it's inherent weaknesses. It is too easy to mis that "ah ha" moment where the symptoms make sense and the solution becomes obvious.
That being stated; let's move forward. The only really common circuit front to rear should be the parking/ license lamps wiring (usually light brown). My next suggestion is a little tedious, but needs to be performed, IMO. Buy one new 1157 bulb and use it as a test in all 4 positions, both tail lamp/ turn signal sockets, both park lamp/ turn signal sockets. At this point let's review what Steve mentioned earlier; be certain your new front assemblies both have two wire sockets for the double filament 1157's. Swap each of those bulbs to the new 1157, one at a time. If that changes nothing, move to the rear and do the same while looking carefully to ascertain all are two wire dual element sockets with 1157's in place. A single element bulb such as an 1156 in a dual socket can cause a problem similar to your description.
No smoking guns located? Onward!
Unplug the turn signal flasher, this should take all turn signals out of the circuit, while leaving the parking lamps and brake lamp circuits active (key on, turn signal lever in neutral position). It is worth mentioning that these vehicles pull the brake switch power from the input side of the turn signal flasher wiring. Thus the brake lamps only function when key is "on". This is a common area for the fifty years of potential modification to raise it's head, so if you find unexpected results; let's discuss that! Turn on the park lamps and observe.
Still nothing unusual? Let's unplug the turn signal harness at the column. Now you should expect to see nothing but the four park lamps glowing at he proper brilliance when the switch is pulled out to park position.
Hopefully by now, you problem has shown itself; if not, it will be wire by wire diagnosis. Again, let's concentrate on known problem areas. Gauges have been added, leaving the possibility of a misconnected wire in that area. 1964 was a change-over year for the charging systems; does yours use the original configuration of either generator or alternator with external regulator? Are there obvious signs of substitution? An easy telltale is the "idiot" light. If you can read it, since you stated it doesn't light, it should be labeled either "gen" or "alt". John mentioned the wiring sources for the "idiot" lamps; the charging indicator lamp picks up power at the charging system voltage regulator, and has a parallel resistance circuit which causes the lamp to go out when charging. That could also be a part of the known problems if modified.
That should give you some suggestions for moving forward while giving me an opportunity to avoid carpal tunnel syndrome, as well as allowing the opportunity to review and make certain I am not skipping something obvious.
Paul

[F164]

I replaced the front park lights.

I disassembled and inspected the tail lights, they are in like new condition..

I put the test light on the front park lights and the BR-Y-R on the rear harness. They all work, except as noted in my previous post, the stronger light is on the park and tail lights, not the turn and brake lights as it should be.

All four 1157s are new, installed correctly, both filaments work.

I added a ground from the bed to the frame.

I connected a temporary ground from the - battery post to the engine, frame, and cab.

I get a strong light from my test light when I clip one end to the + battery post and the other end to the cab, frame, inner fender, core support and engine.

The only thing left that I can think of is the TS switch and the light switch. The TS switch is definitely old, maybe even original to the truck.

Im running out of ideas.

[Toyz]

I can think of nothing in either switch which could affect the opposite circuit(s) while allowing a reversal of brightness. It is just a matter of isolating the circuits individually to determine which may be crossed. There has to be two circuits miswired. I don't believe shorting between circuits would allow a reversal of filaments; it would be more likely to result in both circuits being bright because of the dual feed. With one of the turn signals on, and the connector unplugged at that individual lamp assembly, you should be able to easily determine whether the feed is from the correct wire, or the brown wire, which should be the common park/tail lamp feed rather than the turn signal.
Edit; I believe the rear harness should be brown, yellow, GREEN. I will check in the a.m.
Paul

[F164]

The rear is BR-Y-G, and that's what my wires are. I typed R instead of G.

Im wondering how a circuit can be crossed. I do not see anywhere that the original harness has been cut except to splice in the rear lights.

When I disconnect the rear lights and put my test light on the BR, I get a brighter light when the tail lights are on than when brake light is on.

Regarding the plug that comes off the bottom of my steering column. It looks oem. The plate that is attached to the column fits perfectly and the plugs are molded, not crimped. I cant find anything that it could plug into. The wires go into a plug similar to the plug for the park lights, the other side of the plug has a M/F spade adapter on it.

[F7BIGJOB]

You should get the same brightness on either wire with your testlight, the bulbs with 2 different filaments is what determines bright [stop/turn], dim [tail/running] With your sockets disconected, pull your headlight switch out 1 click AND put on your hazards, if your don't have hazards, turn on either left or right turn signal and touch to socket wires one at a time , I'd take the live tail wire first and touch it to on of your lamp wires-making sure the bulb lights up, then to the other wire, do they both light? If yes hook the live tail wire to the lamp wire that glows dimmer, the turn wire to the remaining wire and that should do it. Then do the opposite side the same way.

[Toyz]

As Steve stated, if there is a visible difference at the test lamp, you will need to trace down the brown wires in their entirety. Both should have the same (almost) battery voltage available, the test lamp should show no difference. If your findings prove true at all locations, I would be inclined to think the problem may be at the switch (or near by), contrary to what I stated earlier. The other (unlikely) possibility is an unintended drain somewhere in that circuit, which would usually result in a blown fuse.
Paul