Manual to Power Steering Upgrade

[lineman1984]

Merry Christmas Folks! This is my second Christmas with Bernadette (my 66 F100 has a name, as all good trucks should). We hung our anniversary bulb on the tree a couple weeks ago.

So Bernadette is at the shop getting an alignment because I recently completed the upgrade from manual drums to manual front discs. I chose to change out the spindles from the donor 73 to my 66 and had to get her aligned afterward. Just the little bit of driving I have done with it way out of alignment and it seemed to stop very well. I think I will be very happy with this upgrade.

But, now I need a spring project. I want to upgrade the steering. It is fine at speed but, trying to maneuver at slow speed is really difficult. It is made worse because of the lowered front end and the wide tires. I get arm pump like back in my dirt biking days!

I can't find a really clear post on upgrading to power steering so I thought this might be a good place to start a discussion. I want to keep my original column and wheel and would like to keep everything from the pitman arm down. My truck is a 2wd and the motor is a 352. I may upgrade to a rebuilt 302 in the future but we can cross that bridge when we get there. I get really good prices at my local NAPA and they are my supplier of choice so if you have any experience with their parts let me know. I have been looking through the latest LMC catalog so if you want to reference their part numbers that would be great.

So, for the first questions:
1) Will I be able to reuse the parts listed above (draglink, steering column, etc.)?
2) It so, what pump and P/S box should I use?
3) Is there a post with pics on here that I haven't found?
4) Any pitfalls I should look out for?

Thanks guys and God Bless!
Justin and Bernadette

[unibody madness]

The easiest would be to find a 66 with power steering and swap everything over. I have been told you would need the shorter steering column, but everything below the steering gear should be good to go
I picked up the entire set up for my 66, from a good hearted member here, but have yet to install it.
Your only other option is to go with one of the IFS front end swaps.
John

[banjopicker66]

Here is a writeup I did a few years ago.
EDIT: Note that the following comments apply only to '65 Twin I-Beam and later trucks; they do NOT apply to '64 and earlier trucks.

Brackets and pulleys: On an FE, you can use the power steering pump brackets, pump and crank pulley from any FE engine, in any Ford car or truck. The FE was phased out of trucks in '76 and cars in '70. There were several types of bracket and pulley setups, so try to get a complete set of brackets from the same motor or vehicle. The different setups don't mix and match, but as long as they are a complete set, you can put them on any FE engine. There are usually 3 pieces to the earlier sets, and 2 to the later sets. Don't forget to pull the crank pulley and the crankshaft dampener while you are at it. Be sure to get the pulleys from the alternator and water pump as well, especially if they are different than what you have now. If the set you are harvesting has A/C (which would make another nice project), get the compressor if you can, if for nothing more than a core.

Pump: This one is pretty universal. It to can come from any car or truck prior to '78, but you may have to make several trips to the parts store to get the correct hoses and fittings. If you can get it off the same vehicle you get the brackets from, get the hoses as well, even if the pump and hoses are bad. You can use the pump for a match up, and a core. Same for the hoses. This pump is easily available from the box auto parts stores, by the way.

Engine perch: If upgrading to the Ford box on a '65/'66 with FE motor, you will find it necessary to use the drivers' side engine perch from a truck with FE, which had PS - '70 - '76. The FE perch has to be modified to allow the longer bulk of the Ford box to fit. The correct perch sweeps back toward the engine, rather than sticking out straight from the side rail. (The '77 - '79 perches may be the same as the '76, but I do not know for sure.)

Power Steering Gearbox: There was only one type used on the '65 and '66 - the Bendix made box. The Bendix box is very hard to find, is weak, prone to failure, and very expensive to have remanufactured. (Note: This Bendix box was only used on Ford trucks, not on any other vehicle. They used it on F-100s up to early '69.) Also, note that the Bendix box has the same dimensions as the manual gearbox, allowing the auto and the manual transmission columns to be the same length '65 and '66.
Ford started using their own P/S box from '69 to '79. It is robust and heavy duty, but is two inches longer than the Bendix. The Ford box will bolt right up to all '65 and '66s, but it will interfere with the stock steering column. See below on steering columns.
This box is easily available from the box auto parts stores, by the way.

Steering column:
The steering column length is the same for manual and auto transmissions with or without power steering '65 and '66. If you wish to use your stock column, you will need to
a. Cut it about 2.5 inches shorter to accommodate the longer Ford made P/S gearbox - NOT recommended!
b. Use the Bendix made P/S gearbox.
Tom at Flashback F-100s can help with getting you a correct column, and is a respected member here at Slick 60s - contact him for help. http://www.flashbackf100s.com/

If you use the Ford P/S gearbox, you can use a '69 to '79 steering column from a truck with P/S. You will need to relocate the dash support bracket on the column (cut two spot welds then re-weld in the correct position for the dash in the '66), and fiddle with the wiring to get it right, but otherwise it is a bolt in. The ’69 – ’72 column is easier to swap in, and looks more like the ’65 and ’66 column. You can even use a tilt column from '78 and '79 trucks.
Unfortunately, there were VERY few trucks made with P/S and a three on the tree column.

So, if you have a 3 on the tree, you will find it best to put in a '69 or later column and put your shifter on the floor.

In summary:
Bendix Box:
Advantages: Exact bolt in, no changes to steering column.
Disadvantages: High cost, shorter service life.

Ford Box:
Advantages: Inexpensive, reliable, durable, easily available.
Disadvantages; Requires a shorter steering column

Options using the Ford P/S box: (Remember, these columns must come from a truck with power steering!)
1. Manual transmission, column shift:
a. Get really really lucky and find a good '67 or later tree-shifted P/S column
b. Shorten shift column - again NOT recommended
c. Use '68 or later column for floor shifted transmission. Put shifter on the floor.
2. Manual transmission, floor shift - use '68 or later column for floor shifted transmission. (You could also use a tree-shift column, and just disconnect the linkages.)

3. Auto transmission: Use an automatic transmission column from a '68 or later truck.

Additional thoughts:
1. If at all possible, get the pitman arm from the donor truck. The arm ’65 – ’79 is the same length, has the same tapered hole for the steering linkage, and will therefore correctly mate with all those years’ steering linkage.
BUT.
2. The splined shaft on the PS box where the pitman arm bolts to the PS box is different. There are at least 3 variations: Manual box, Bendix box and Ford (Saginaw) box. Harvest the pitman arm for the box.
3. Although the flexible "rag Joints" can interchange, the metal coupler is different. Be sure to harvest the coupler if you can.

Hope this isn't too confusing, and that it helps!

[banjopicker66]

I have been looking through the latest LMC catalog so if you want to reference their part numbers that would be great.

So, for the first questions:
1) Will I be able to reuse the parts listed above (draglink, steering column, etc.)?
2) It so, what pump and P/S box should I use?
3) Is there a post with pics on here that I haven't found?
4) Any pitfalls I should look out for?

Thanks guys and God Bless!
Justin and Bernadette

First, many of us here prefer Dennis Carpenter over LMC. Hands down. Might want to compare price and quality.

To answer two of your questions directly:
1. The draglink and all the linkages will work. You must get the correct pitman arm for the power steering gearbox, though. The various pitman arms will mate to your linkage, but they are specific to the gearbox.
2. Use the pump that mates to the brackets you use. Ford changed the pump and brackets in '78, which doesn't apply to your 352, but may affect a 302 swap.
The later pump puts out the same pressures, so you won't have to change the PS gearbox if you go to a '78 or later pump. The pump is just redesigned on the outside with a plastic body instead of a steel one.

Hope this helps!

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

one thing I say is DO NOT COLUMNS, very dangerous unless taking it to a expert and most will not do it since they will not be liable for your death or somebodies else,, have seen too many columns come through that I would not even try to drive across a street,, cutting a column means cutting tube, shaft, outside column, cutting a section out of the bottom bearing and moving it up and then have the offset arms for power steering trucks last column came in some a$$hole cut, did not shift cause it was so far off, it was a wonder it went into any gear,, had to replace the shift tube for correct power steering truck, outside column tube, shaft that was butchered,,, lets put it this DO NOT COLUMN, 3 speed power steering columns are hard to find, I even bought one @ Slick Stock this past year,,, Bendix problem is the box is close to exhaust manifold so put a cooler on power steering pump and thast why prone to leak

[banjopicker66]

one thing I say is DO NOT COLUMNS, very dangerous .....

Tom - Note the edits I made in my post. Shortening steering column NOT recommended.
John

[Toyz]

A person on another on line group had actually moved his column upward to accomodate the p.s. box. He had trimmed the old manual firewall bracket to clear the auto linkage. Even if he were comfortable with this chest brushing setup and the non linear linkage, my concern would be the lack of shaft to torso clearance in a front end collision.
Paul

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

yes John see you updated,, Paul I don't like the idea of column being that close either,, short cuts like this is dangerous to the driver and anybody else around the wreck,, I have seen them take that whole rag joint out to be shorter NOT A GOOD , either Ford put that there for safety as well

[F164]

I am one of the few people on F100 forums that tell you that a Bendix box is fine.

Ford used them on cars as well as trucks and there are thousands of them still in use.

You did not mention what tranny you are running.

The 3 speed ps column is hard to find, the auto columns are getting harder to find.

You can get away with keeping your original column with a bendix box.

There is a ebay seller that occasionally has a complete reman Bendix set up for about $900.

Here is a used setup that is a smoking deal.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Ford-F-100 ... eb&vxp=mtr

[lineman1984]

Hey Guys! Thanks for the fast and thorough response, especially banjopicker!

So my plan is to scour the local junk yards for a proper donor. Hopefully I will find a complete donor F100 with the FE engine. I will be able to exchange my pulled parts as cores for new parts (pump, steering box) and use the hoses to reference for new ones. Forgot to mention that my truck was a three on the tree but, was converted to floor shift at some point so, column shifting issues need not apply. I am definitely going to use the Ford/Saginaw steering box and will NOT cut my existing steering column.

So, my next questions are:
1) I will try my best to find an F100 donor but if I can't will an F250 or 350 work?
2) If my donor is a car will the pitman arm work for my F100? And, what other problems might I encounter using a car donor?
3) If I can't easily find a used steering column is the IDIDIT column a good alternative?
4) I guess by engine perch you mean motor mounts? Will the newer '70-'76 mount be a direct bolt-in swap as long as I use the correct P/S with an FE mount?
5) Will the Ford/Saginaw box mount with the existing holes that the manual box does? Understand it is larger but, does it mount the same?

Thanks Guys! Happy New Year!
Justin

[William-in-St George]

1.) Yes.
2.) Yes and no. These steering boxes are found in trucks. Your Manual pitman arm will work but with a junk yard box you will most likely receive it with the arm attached. I Don't think any car box will work.
3.) Yes. Expensive but very nice.
4.) Yes.
5.) Yes.
If you get lucky and find a PS system (box, pump, brackets and column) off a 78 or so F series truck with tilt column grab it. These are a bolt in deal and 100% Ford. I use these all the time.
IMHO!

[F164]

pm sent.

[banjopicker66]

2) If my donor is a car will the pitman arm work for my F100? And, what other problems might I encounter using a car donor?

4) I guess by engine perch you mean motor mounts? Will the newer '70-'76 mount be a direct bolt-in swap as long as I use the correct P/S with an FE mount?
Thanks Guys! Happy New Year!
Justin

I hope you do not mind my clarifications:

2: Get the power steering pitman arm from the donor truck. It is my understanding that they do not interchange from manual to power steering, nor from car to truck. The splines on the gearbox for the pitman arm are different for each one. In any case, it will come "free" with the gearbox from the donor truck.
I concur with William, the car gearbox isn't the same shape or size as the truck one.
You can use the truck gearbox and pitman arm up to '79.
You can use FE brackets and pulleys from a car FE - just get a complete set.

4: I usually think of motor mounts as the rubber insulator that sits between the block and the engine perch. The perch different, it is a steel support that bolts to the frame and supports the rubber insulator.
You need to use a '70 - '76 driver's side perch. Yes, it will bolt up to your frame; the holes are already there from the factory.
Note that '76 was the last year that FE engines were put into trucks, so you need the FE perch, brackets and pulleys. Brackets ans pulleys from any other engine will not fit.

Hope this helps!

[Roger Carter]

There is a difference between power and NON power steering column assemblies of the '65-'66 trucks. The difference is minor, but can cause problems, and....

Not all FE P/S brackets and pulleys will work.

The steering shaft is about 3/4" shorter on the '65-'66 P/S columns that used the Bendix box when compared to the NON P/S shaft. Only the shaft is different, all other parts and pieces of the columns are the same.
Sometimes there is enough adjustment in the column assembly to make up this difference and sometimes not.

Many people on truck forums will claim there is no difference between column assemblies and they have never had a problem using the NON P/S column with the Bendix box.

I did encounter a problem, researched the reason and found the answer in the Ford parts book.

As for the pulley issue. While all FE matched pulley and pump assemblies will bolt on to your engine, some may sit closer to the engine and cause interference between the P/S belt and the lower radiator hose. Again, I learned this by believing "everything fits" rather than checking it out for myself.

Please take this in the manner it was presented. I am only trying to help the OP avoid some of the pitfalls I encountered on my first P/S swap many years ago. Hope this helps.

[banjopicker66]

Please take this in the manner it was presented. I am only trying to help the OP avoid some of the pitfalls I encountered on my first P/S swap many years ago. Hope this helps.

No problem here. I appreciate your candor.

Not all FE P/S brackets and pulleys will work.
As for the pulley issue. While all FE matched pulley and pump assemblies will bolt on to your engine, some may sit closer to the engine and cause interference between the P/S belt and the lower radiator hose.

I did encounter this problem with the PS belt rubbing on and cutting into the lower radiator hose, and had actually forgotten about it. However, the solution that I found was to use the '73-'76 lower radiator hose. This one dips further down before curving to the front.
The earlier or non-PS lower radiator hose curves forward up to high, and touches the PS belt.

At least, that is what I recall. Has anyone else found this to be the solution to this problem, especially for the original poster's sake?

[Toyz]

To further clarify William's response:
The slick F350s, due to the older cab and chassis, are not a source for steering parts. I don't believe p.s was a factory option on them, anyway, although some have been found with what appeared to be dealer-installed linkage assists.
I believe Banjo is also accurate concerning the pitman arm, as well as his recollection of the usually required changes. Roger's remarks also reflect my experiences.
You are always going to find some who insist otherwise; personally, I want no modification which brings the wheel and shaft ANY closer to my torso. The other items seem to reflect Ford's answer to any potential problems, and MIGHT be workable on one's personal vehicle. I certainly would not consider any questionable "maybe's" on a customer's vehicle.

Paul

[lineman1984]

Good News! I found a gentleman about 60 miles from me who is parting out a 72 F250 2WD with 360. I found him on Craigs and gave him a buzz. Asked him if he would like to part with the powering steering parts and we made a deal.

I got the pump, bracket, steering box with pitman arm, and the lines. I even got the small cooler that goes on the low pressure side. The fella I bought the parts from has quiet a lot of old Ford iron sitting around his place. We have had some interesting conversations and I want to try to get him involved on here.

But, there is one little caveat with this great story. He has the 360 listed on Craigs and is not willing to part with the crank pulley. His thinking is that he would have to disturb the sleeve that goes into the front cover of the motor to remove the pulley and harmonic balancer causing a possible oil leak at this seal. His 360 has a setup with separate balancer and three groove pulley. The balancer is mounted to the crank end with one large bolt and the pulley bolts to the balancer with three bolts - these look to be about 3/8. My 352 has a harmonic balancer/pulley combo setup that is bolted directly to the crank end. The crank pulley is single groove and is an integral unit with the balancer. He believes that if we swap pulleys and balancers we would have to swap the sleeves behind the balancers and his 360 may develop an oil leak at the hole in the front cover. I am not looking to try and convince him to swap this but, just for my own info, is he correct in his thinking?

So, all that being said, I mounted the bracket and pump and it looks like I need to add two grooves to the frontside of my existing pulley. If you look right down the pump pulley towards the crank pulley it appears two more grooves would be necessary. I did notice that my balancer/pulley has three threaded holes in the spokes - these look to be 3/8. What are my options here? Do you all think I could mount some sort of auxiliary pulley to these holes? What would the factory pulley look like on a 66 352 with P/S? Or, could I find a three groove pulley/balancer to mount in place of mine? It looks like I could mount the pulley from his 360 to my pulley.

Thanks in advance!
Justin

[banjopicker66]

Wonderful find, Justin, but you did not mention you obtained an important part:

The driver's side engine perch.

This is the metal support for the engine that bolts to the frame, and holds up the rubber insulator that bolts to the engine.
You can't get it out either without removing the engine. Without it, you cannot install the gearbox without cutting the perch that is in there.

I'll let someone else comment on the pulleys.

[lineman1984]

Banjo,
The gentleman I bought the parts from wasn't able to part with the engine perch either. Since he is looking to sell the engine he needs to leave the perch in the truck so he can start the engine. I have asked him to contact me when he sells the motor and I will go back then to grab the perch. In the meantime I plan to trim my existing perch to accommodate.
Justin

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

Changing the D/S perch is just one of those myths to some that wants to be politically correct or have something to write about and wants to skin there knuckles on the top 2 bolts,, I have never changed that perch,, all I did was to grind the gear box a little and then notch the perch and then install the gear box, gear boxes are so thick that grinding on them will not hurt them,, as far as bottom pulley I have seen some and even had some of the additional 2 groove pulley that bolts back on to the existing 352 harmonic balancer single groove pulley/balancer, or just change out with the 360/390 FE Harmonic Balancer/Sleeve BUT Remember do not use the 428 Balancer