ENGINE DIES WHEN YOU PRESS THE ACCEL. PEDAL

[DANNY COLE]

I have a 1972 F100 with the 360 engine. The truck started to miss one day when I was driving down the road. The truck finally quite running and I got it started back after trying for 5 min. to get it to start. I drove about 1 mile to the house and it quite again. The truck will start and idle but as soon as you press the gas pedal the engine dies. I have changed points, plugs, condenser, rotary button, distributor cap, and coil and still have same problem. I also changed in inline fuel fifter, fuel pump, rubber gas lines, emptied the gas tank and put in new gas and had the carburetor rebuild(Holley 600) and I still have the same problem. I have changed each one of these parts one at a time to try and find the problem. Can anybody give me an idea what to check next. I was thinking of changing the distributor next. I also by-passed the ignition switch and ran a hot wire from the +battery post to the battery side of coil and this did not make any difference either.

[Lowell]

Check for broken or bare wire inside the distributor

[808F250]

Distributor

[yellodog]

spray some carb cleaner into the carb as it dies. if it's fuel related, it shouldn't quit.

with insutlated pliers, hold the coil wire close, but not into the distributor cap center post. watch the spark as the engine dies.

you really need to kinow which system's causing your problem, instead of guessing.

i'm guessing fuel.

[Toyz]

For most any vehicle problem, "check your grounds" should often be step one! Make certain your advance plate ground wire is in place and in good shape; make certain the distributor itself is grounded, as well as the condenser. Since you have run a direct battery voltage wire to the coil, probably would be a good idea to replace points and condenser once again. The resistor bypass wire only is active in start position, so the coil rarely would see full battery voltage due to starter draw and other voltage drops. This doesn't even consider the additional voltage provided by a good charging system; so the jumper wire may have been detrimental to some otherwise new parts. Secondary voltage to plugs can easily be checked by taking a new spare plug, opening the gap to around .080", grounding the plug and checking for a spark jumping that gap while engaging the starter. If you feel it may be fuel related , take something like a small pump oiler can ; fill with fuel; Berryman B-12, or similar. Squirt it in the carb vent tube. If you note fuel immediately flowing into the carb throat, indicating the fuel bowl was full, then the fuel was at least reaching the carb bowl . If you do not immediately see fuel flow, keep squirting until the bowl is fuel and then attempt to re-start. Just basics, but these should help narrow down or eliminate the possibility of some common problems.
Paul

[DANNY COLE]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will try some of these next week I have to work this weekend. I will let everyone know what the problem is when I find it.

[bruceandersson]

This won't fix what caused it to die in the first place, but a bad accelerator pump on the carb can cause hesitation or the engine to die when revved.

[DANNY COLE]

Got my truck fixed. It was the distributor. Thanks for all the suggestions

[DANNY COLE]

Got my truck fixed. It was the distributor. Thanks for the suggestions

[rw66f100]

Hey Danny, did you repair something on your distributor or just replace it? My 66 is doing the same thing. Still has the original distributor in it. Idles good but when I punch it, it hesitates and wants to die. Accelerator pump seems to be working fine.

[DANNY COLE]

I replaced the distributor with a new rebuit from CarQuest. I have a good friend that works their. He let me have it for $40.00 plus my old one for a core.

[rw66f100]

good deal!