My 64 F100 has an unusual rear end for a F100 I think.
The housing is not tapered, has small bearings, has 2 dimples and a fill plug on the back without the large raised center section that is common on F100 9 inch rear ends. It also has a tag that just says 3.10. It has a 5x5.5 bolt pattern.
Im guessing the housing came out of a 57-59 Galaxie.
Im going to have the rear end up in the air this week so I will try and figure out the gear ratio.
What ever it is, I don't think its enough.
The engine runs well but the truck has no get up and go. Im guessing that I have a 2.75 or a 2.50 rear gear.
I have a set of 3.25 gears out of a 28 spline 75 F100 that I would like to use if possible.
Any idea on my spline count based on the information that I have?
Any idea
28 or 31 Spline?
Re: 28 or 31 Spline?
I've got a 59 Galaxie 3.25 chunk in mine and its 28 spline
Re: 28 or 31 Spline?
If an original '59 application, it will be 28 spline. Most 31 spline will not have the large indention in the flange center.
Paul
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Re: 28 or 31 Spline?
If an original '59 application, it will be 28 spline. Most 31 spline will not have the large indention in the flange center.
Paul
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
Re: 28 or 31 Spline?
What engine do you have? If 223, then it is geared to tall and if a stock 292 those are still pretty tall. 64's were not made for speed but working trucks gearing for the most part. Don't remember exactly what ratios were available for the year but I know my 64 with a four speed had 3.89 gears and at 90 she was all out with the 292 and that was with big valve heads and four barrel intake but stock cam. The 3.25 gears would be better but still to tall for the 223, but then again a 223 is not a hot rod motor. I would suggest something closer to 3.50 as long as you are not looking to drive it a lot at highway speeds. The 292 is a different matter but even it in stock form is pushing the power limit with 3.10 gearing. Best bet is to try the 3.25 set and see how you like it. It should be a one day job from beginning to finish, or less if you've done it before. Understand this is without running into unforeseen problems, and you have some experience. If, you do not have other transportation and this is your daily driver, I suggest looking into and getting advice before you start. If you have never done the change out, then I have several pieces of advice for you. First, the studs on the third member had nuts with copper washers, for sealing I suppose and came from Ford that way. You need to take a knife and or something sharp and get these off before trying to remove the third member. I saw a guy in a U-pullit yard with both feet on the axle trying to pull one out after removing the nuts. He's lucky it didn't come loose and take some other nuts with it. I stopped him and let him know about the copper washers. If, those are gone, then it's been out before, and may have been put in with sealer. I have installed one with just sealer and no gasket, but do not approve of doing so. Once set up it can be a real bear to get off. As far as get it loose from the housing, I suggest thin chisels , I start with a pipeline spacing tool. These are about 1/8 inch thick and taper down about 2 to 3 inches from the end. These come blunt at the working end and have to be shaped/sharpened and then heat treated for best use. Usually about 2 inches wide by about 8 to 9 inches long. Sometimes made from buggy springs or car/truck springs but you have to take the arch out of the spring. Handy for a lot of uses, will get in where a chisel is too thick.
Before you get to the third member, you will have to remove the brake drums, and axles . I will assume you know how to back the brake shoes off so the drums can be removed. Brake drum removal can be a real pain depending on how long it's been since the last time these were off. It's fairly easy to ruin a set of drums in this process. A lot depends on how much rust buildup the hub of the axle has where the drum fits over the hub part. If, badly rusted , and won't give at all. I wire brush what I can get to and take something sharp like an icepick to the hairline crack around the hub. If it doesn't come loose with prying, I take a large hammer and thump the drum around the perimeter every few inches . Notice I said thump, and not hammer. This is why I suggest a large hammer and I suggest you thump it at the face on the outside and directly toward the hub. Make a complete circle of the drum. Your not trying to do anything but break the hub loose and work the PB Blaster into the crack. Once you've done this try prying the drum loose again or thumping it on the face to loosen it up. I repeat the process until it has some movement, then you can wiggle it until it comes off.
Once you have the brake drums off, the next problem is the removal of the axles. This can be hard even with the proper tools on some vehicles. One thing you do need is a large slide hammer that will work on axles. Axles can grow into the housings, and I have even had to heat some even though I have a good slide hammer ( ten pound or better). You may be able to rent or borrow one from O'Rielly's or AutoZone, possibly a friend has one. At this point I will mention something you need to do before you take the rear end apart, and that is you need to check the axle bearing before you start this project, in case you need to replace those. Jack the truck up on one side at a time. Just enough to get a pry bar under the wheel. Raise and lower the wheel with the pry bar to detect any movement in the bearing. Also, roll the wheel to see if there is roughness in the bearing. May not be able to feel it through the wheel. Be prepared to replace the bearings if any play is felt and the axle seals also. Bearings are pressed onto the axle with a collar which is also pressed on. Removal and installation is best done with a press but can be done by cutting with a thin cutoff wheel and chisel. Cut the outer race off and the bearing and cage with torch if available. Then by cutting at an angle with the cut off wheel cut mostly though the inner race. Take a chisel that will start into the groove and hammer it in to the groove. The bearing race will snap and come off easily. Same with the retaining collar. Don't just throw either of these away. Find a piece of steel pipe large enough in diameter to go over the shoulder on the axle and a few inches longer than the axle.. Install the bearing on the axle along with either the old bearing race or collar for a softener. Stand the pipe and axle on end and drive the bearing on, then the collar making sure the bearing and collar are seated against the axle shoulder. You need an extra set of hands as this can be done alone but it really helps to have those extra hands. Mostly because if driving the axle down on the pipe you really need two hammers to drive the axle onto the bearing. One placed in the center of the hub so you don't deform the hub by driving directly on the hub. If driving from the other end you will need a good solid 4x4 block or something to keep from knocking the wheel studs out. You can hammer directly on the pipe but you really need something there also to keep from deforming the pipe. You might want to use it again. Just be sure the pipe is long enough to do the job without bottoming out.
If, you are beyond the level of my instructions in expertise, I apologize. I often do this in my explanations for the benefit of those with little or no training. Many of the younger men and women amongst us have little knowledge and need all the help they can get.
With that I will list what you might want to have on hand.
Third member gasket
Sealer
Axle seals
Bearings
Cardboard
As to the axles and bearings, along with the drums. It might be best to do a trial run and some checking one at a time on these before tackling the third member. Take a Saturday and plan on taking one axle out at a time, Once you have had the drums off and the axles out and checked bearing and such, it will be easier removing those the second time around. The third member should be a one day job or less depending on your tools and luck with removing the third member. Plan on breaking the third member loose with a pan under the axle. It will take some time for it to drain if you don't help it along. Don't go back with the old lube. Take the new lube inside where it's warm or place it in the sun to warm it up. One other piece of advice, cardboard is your friend, when it comes to grease and oil. Get several large pieces and double layer it if need be. Removing a third member can be a nasty happening.
Rich
Before you get to the third member, you will have to remove the brake drums, and axles . I will assume you know how to back the brake shoes off so the drums can be removed. Brake drum removal can be a real pain depending on how long it's been since the last time these were off. It's fairly easy to ruin a set of drums in this process. A lot depends on how much rust buildup the hub of the axle has where the drum fits over the hub part. If, badly rusted , and won't give at all. I wire brush what I can get to and take something sharp like an icepick to the hairline crack around the hub. If it doesn't come loose with prying, I take a large hammer and thump the drum around the perimeter every few inches . Notice I said thump, and not hammer. This is why I suggest a large hammer and I suggest you thump it at the face on the outside and directly toward the hub. Make a complete circle of the drum. Your not trying to do anything but break the hub loose and work the PB Blaster into the crack. Once you've done this try prying the drum loose again or thumping it on the face to loosen it up. I repeat the process until it has some movement, then you can wiggle it until it comes off.
Once you have the brake drums off, the next problem is the removal of the axles. This can be hard even with the proper tools on some vehicles. One thing you do need is a large slide hammer that will work on axles. Axles can grow into the housings, and I have even had to heat some even though I have a good slide hammer ( ten pound or better). You may be able to rent or borrow one from O'Rielly's or AutoZone, possibly a friend has one. At this point I will mention something you need to do before you take the rear end apart, and that is you need to check the axle bearing before you start this project, in case you need to replace those. Jack the truck up on one side at a time. Just enough to get a pry bar under the wheel. Raise and lower the wheel with the pry bar to detect any movement in the bearing. Also, roll the wheel to see if there is roughness in the bearing. May not be able to feel it through the wheel. Be prepared to replace the bearings if any play is felt and the axle seals also. Bearings are pressed onto the axle with a collar which is also pressed on. Removal and installation is best done with a press but can be done by cutting with a thin cutoff wheel and chisel. Cut the outer race off and the bearing and cage with torch if available. Then by cutting at an angle with the cut off wheel cut mostly though the inner race. Take a chisel that will start into the groove and hammer it in to the groove. The bearing race will snap and come off easily. Same with the retaining collar. Don't just throw either of these away. Find a piece of steel pipe large enough in diameter to go over the shoulder on the axle and a few inches longer than the axle.. Install the bearing on the axle along with either the old bearing race or collar for a softener. Stand the pipe and axle on end and drive the bearing on, then the collar making sure the bearing and collar are seated against the axle shoulder. You need an extra set of hands as this can be done alone but it really helps to have those extra hands. Mostly because if driving the axle down on the pipe you really need two hammers to drive the axle onto the bearing. One placed in the center of the hub so you don't deform the hub by driving directly on the hub. If driving from the other end you will need a good solid 4x4 block or something to keep from knocking the wheel studs out. You can hammer directly on the pipe but you really need something there also to keep from deforming the pipe. You might want to use it again. Just be sure the pipe is long enough to do the job without bottoming out.
If, you are beyond the level of my instructions in expertise, I apologize. I often do this in my explanations for the benefit of those with little or no training. Many of the younger men and women amongst us have little knowledge and need all the help they can get.
With that I will list what you might want to have on hand.
Third member gasket
Sealer
Axle seals
Bearings
Cardboard
As to the axles and bearings, along with the drums. It might be best to do a trial run and some checking one at a time on these before tackling the third member. Take a Saturday and plan on taking one axle out at a time, Once you have had the drums off and the axles out and checked bearing and such, it will be easier removing those the second time around. The third member should be a one day job or less depending on your tools and luck with removing the third member. Plan on breaking the third member loose with a pan under the axle. It will take some time for it to drain if you don't help it along. Don't go back with the old lube. Take the new lube inside where it's warm or place it in the sun to warm it up. One other piece of advice, cardboard is your friend, when it comes to grease and oil. Get several large pieces and double layer it if need be. Removing a third member can be a nasty happening.
Rich