Disc brake conversion under way

[orangeRcode]

Went to our local wrecking yard and pulled the disc brake assembly off a 75 Ford Ranger. I would first like to thank TR for the help in pulling these. We accomplised it in less than 3 hours and we had to pull an A frame over to the truck to move back off the rims it was resting on the trailing arms. I've broken down the parts to assess what needs to be replaced and placed an order with rockauto. I have one issue with the driver's side I beam and spindle. It's very difficult to turn. I've managed to get grease in the bottom zerk but none would go in the top zerk. Pulled the zerk and cap off and found a bunch of dried grease with corrosion. I've shot it with Kroil but heard from another member that a mixture of 2 cycle oil and trans fluid is good for freeing up corroded parts. I've got it sitting in that now. I'm going to give it some time to work down in the king pin and see if I can get any grease down there to allow it to move better. Just curious as to what you think my chances are of getting by without having to knock out and replacing the king pin?

[Mr. Jones]

R-code,
I always take a bottle of Mapp gas to those things.Apply heat and keep trying to move the spindle till the old grease starts to soften up,once it moves easier start pumping in new grease.Always worked when I did it that way....also as the spindle moves I sprayed carb cleaner into the zerk fitting hole and the top of the kingpin.
Dan

[orangeRcode]

R-code,
I always take a bottle of Mapp gas to those things.Apply heat and keep trying to move the spindle till the old grease starts to soften up,once it moves easier start pumping in new grease.Always worked when I did it that way....also as the spindle moves I sprayed carb cleaner into the zerk fitting hole and the top of the kingpin.
Dan

Dan, thanks for the tip. I will give that a try. I've worked it back and forth albeit with alot of effort and a bit of coersion on my part.

[yellodog]

heat should do the trick.

fyi, i have seen some nylon/plastic kingpin bushings in some tib's. heat wouldn't be a good idea with those.

[orangeRcode]

heat should do the trick.

fyi, i have seen some nylon/plastic kingpin bushings in some tib's. heat wouldn't be a good idea with those.

It doesn't look like it had ever been out of the truck so I don't believe it is the plastic type.

[DV65CustomCab]

You may be surprised to find they come out easily. Mine did. All depends on the maintenance they had over the years.
Have you found my disc brake swap how-to page?
http://mongrelmotorsports.purpleflyingm ... discs.html

[orangeRcode]

You may be surprised to find they come out easily. Mine did. All depends on the maintenance they had over the years.
Have you found my disc brake swap how-to page?
http://mongrelmotorsports.purpleflyingm ... discs.html

Yes sir I did find it. I posted on the stickied thread about what good info it was. Unfortunately, mine didn't have the master cyclinder or proportioning block still on the truck. I've got it all broken down and ready to paint (except for the spindle I'm fighting with). I will paint the parts and reassemble with the new parts I got from rockauto. I will see if MAPP gas torch helps free it up. If not, will be pressing out and getting new king pins. Would you recommend doing both when I'm doing it or just replace the bad one? Where is the best source for king pins?

[William-in-St George]

Take the I-Beam and spindle for both sides down to your local machine shop and have them install new king pins and bushings. New pivot bushings would also be a good investment. I do all this work on the bench, Pivot bushings, King Pins, disks and calipers, bearings and seals and lug nut studs. Then install a basically new front end and drive it another 40 years. New hoses, reconditioned MC and Booster and proportioning valve will also make life more pleasant. I don't like used steel lines either but they are handy to use as a pattern. MC power brake sells a MC with prop valve for not a lot of money. Good investment as far as I am concerned. Stopping is way more important that going don't cheap out on suspension, steering or brakes. IMHO!

[orangeRcode]

Take the I-Beam and spindle for both sides down to your local machine shop and have them install new king pins and bushings. New pivot bushings would also be a good investment. I do all this work on the bench, Pivot bushings, King Pins, disks and calipers, bearings and seals and lug nut studs. Then install a basically new front end and drive it another 40 years. New hoses, reconditioned MC and Booster and proportioning valve will also make life more pleasant. I don't like used steel lines either but they are handy to use as a pattern. MC power brake sells a MC with prop valve for not a lot of money. Good investment as far as I am concerned. Stopping is way more important that going don't cheap out on suspension, steering or brakes. IMHO!

William, I've already received new pads and hoses. Have found a good source of new rotors, rebuilt calipers, and bearings. I'm going to order those today. Rockauto has some great prices but for heavy items such as the rotors and calipers the shipping is outragious. It was going to be more than the cost of the parts! Found a local source for almost as cheap and is a quality supplier. I'm excited about getting some better stopping power. Drove it this weekend in light traffic and you have to be on your A game when stopping in traffic.


Thanks to all the other helpful tips. After several days of soaking in 2 stroke oil/auto trans fluid mixture, some heat from a MAPP torch and some blows from a deadblow hammer I convinced it to move freely. I have pumped it full of a good grease and it's moving great. Now to degrease and put some primer before painting and reassembling. Wished we would get a break in the heat.

Need some suggestions on the correct master cylinder to use. Don't know for sure if I want to go power assist or manual. To refresh everyone's memory (including my own), the brakes are off a 75 F100 Ranger and are going on my 66 F100. Also, will it need a proportioning block?

[bruceandersson]

You should go back and get the distribution/switch block from the truck the brakes came off of, otherwise these are kinda pricey. It will mount in the same location on your truck. You need the factory block if you want to survive the loss of either the front or rear brakes. As long as you are there why not grab the booster if its still there and go with power? The 75 booster will bolt right in, but I've had to re-locate the hole in the brake pedal arm when I've done these conversions. Just welded up the old hole and drilled the new one. Keeping everything from the same year donor has some advantages if you ever have to replace anything in the future.

[bruceandersson]

I'd also replace the pressure switch with a mechanical switch while you're at it. Good article on www.fordification.com about this.

[orangeRcode]

You should go back and get the distribution/switch block from the truck the brakes came off of, otherwise these are kinda pricey. It will mount in the same location on your truck. You need the factory block if you want to survive the loss of either the front or rear brakes. As long as you are there why not grab the booster if its still there and go with power? The 75 booster will bolt right in, but I've had to re-locate the hole in the brake pedal arm when I've done these conversions. Just welded up the old hole and drilled the new one. Keeping everything from the same year donor has some advantages if you ever have to replace anything in the future.

Unfortunately, distribution block/proportioning valve/tubing was already gone.

[Jerry D]

Wilwood makes a nice little proportioning valve, and it's got the pressure included/built in. Just connect your existing brake wires right to it. It's a little pricey, about $75, but a nice little piece. Should you go that route, I have a stainless mounting bracket for it that you can have.

Jerry

[orangeRcode]

Wilwood makes a nice little proportioning valve, and it's got the pressure included/built in. Just connect your existing brake wires right to it. It's a little pricey, about $75, but a nice little piece. Should you go that route, I have a stainless mounting bracket for it that you can have.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. I may take you up on that offer. I've seen the wilwood proportioning valve on a couple of street rods. Looks really nice.