tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
- 6166 Junkyard Dog
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Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
WE have used rust-oleum for years,, back in the sixties used to paint the wheels on big trucks and hub etc. and withstood all the garbage in winter times 2 years ago Kathy painted our car trailer with a brush using rust-oleum, never washed it just painted over it and still look good so I would use that before all that other stuff,, also I think Red Devil makes a chassis paint or go to the semi shops and see what they have since they have to be tough on those trucks
Tom,
@
Lazy FORD Ranch
Where Ford Trucks Rest in Peace
Dakota,,, RIP will never be the same looking for 61-66 trucks again ,, Kathy
Slickstock,,, York, PA
Slickstock,,, Kansas City, MO
Slickstock,,, Altoona, IOWA
Slickstock,,, Salina, KS
Now Cooper will try his best
Cooper now has 2018 Slick Stock,, give him a fair star
Slickstock Kansas City, Mo
@
Lazy FORD Ranch
Where Ford Trucks Rest in Peace
Dakota,,, RIP will never be the same looking for 61-66 trucks again ,, Kathy
Slickstock,,, York, PA
Slickstock,,, Kansas City, MO
Slickstock,,, Altoona, IOWA
Slickstock,,, Salina, KS
Now Cooper will try his best
Cooper now has 2018 Slick Stock,, give him a fair star
Slickstock Kansas City, Mo
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
That does make sense, but if that moisture were truly sealed in permanently with no exposure to oxygen that it wouldn't be able to form additional rust. And that is exactly how the product is marketed:slick4x4 wrote:This is What I meant by "rust can hold water " ...
I have taken a cutting torch to rusty metal
And you can see moisture just weep out of the surrounding area
It's "in" the metal
And usually we wash the frame to clean it
The iron needs time to "dry out" completely
........
Does this make sense ? ... Not saying this is the cause
Just a guess really
POR-15 wrote:Since POR-15® chemically bonds to metal, the underlying surface does not have to be sanded before application. As long as loose or flaking rust are removed from the surface, an application of POR-15® will not only cover up the rust and prevent it from spreading, but will also strengthen the underlying metal and seal holes by forming its own membranes.
POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-I ... ep_62.html
It does mention that there can be issues with adhesion if applied under "extreme" humidity but I'm not sure an Alaskan summer would fit that bill.
- theastronaut
- Posts: 439
- Joined: August 7, 2013, 10:43 am
- Location: Upstate SC
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
I'm using just oil under my Slicks.....theastronaut wrote:The best thing is to not paint over rust...
Here is a past link on this issue where I explain my reasoning: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6202&hilit=oil+rust
BarnieTrk
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Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
i had a friend long ago who took the remaining drips of oil in the can, yes can of oil and dripped them on the rusty spots on his inner fenders and hood hinges
it does dry hard but can be cipped and certainly can be peeled like bad tape with just a little heat to get it started. i have saved some of this poor tape i peeled quite easily.
actually that makes me happy as now i have a removal method.
too bad that is not true and i have proofThe Big M wrote:POR-15 wrote:Since POR-15® chemically bonds to metal, the underlying surface does not have to be sanded before application. As long as loose or flaking rust are removed from the surface, an application of POR-15® will not only cover up the rust and prevent it from spreading, but will also strengthen the underlying metal and seal holes by forming its own membranes.
POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces. It dries to a rock-hard, non-porous finish that won't chip, crack, or peel, and it prevents rust from re-occurring by protecting metal from further exposure to moisture.
it does dry hard but can be cipped and certainly can be peeled like bad tape with just a little heat to get it started. i have saved some of this poor tape i peeled quite easily.
actually that makes me happy as now i have a removal method.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- theastronaut
- Posts: 439
- Joined: August 7, 2013, 10:43 am
- Location: Upstate SC
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
BarnieTrk wrote: I'm using just oil under my Slicks.....
Here is a past link on this issue where I explain my reasoning: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6202&hilit=oil+rust
BarnieTrk
You can go a step further than just oil. I mix up mineral spirits, paraffin wax, and light oil to spray in cavities.
Details here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... ?p=5547533
Treated vs untreated bare steel.
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
Painting stuff can give unexpected results....
Sometimes it doesn't stick when we think it should
Other times .......
When I was a kid 40 years ago, we had a small old shed with
A tin galvanized roof, with a small amount of rust on it
My dad mixed up 1/2 a dozen cans of different paint
From leftover projects.... Dang stuff was lumpy & puke green
He made me get on that 8x12 roof & paint it.....
Didn't even wash the bird poop off
That roof hasn't changed looks at all
95% is still covered with that mixture
And it's still just as ugly looking as ever !
Sometimes it doesn't stick when we think it should
Other times .......
When I was a kid 40 years ago, we had a small old shed with
A tin galvanized roof, with a small amount of rust on it
My dad mixed up 1/2 a dozen cans of different paint
From leftover projects.... Dang stuff was lumpy & puke green
He made me get on that 8x12 roof & paint it.....
Didn't even wash the bird poop off
That roof hasn't changed looks at all
95% is still covered with that mixture
And it's still just as ugly looking as ever !
.
.
.
[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
.
.
[b]'' I think what scares me the most about you guys is that I understand you '' ..... KID
'' lookin good, a little paint adds at least 100hp!'' ....... COOTER
'' well an old guy can dream cant he? ''............ICEMAN
''I would donate organs before selling my slick''........ HOOFBEAT RACER
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
In the past, I tried mixing old motor oil with fuel oil (50/50, then 25/75) but it didn't seem into the seams and joints like I wanted it to. I ended up just using straight fuel oil / diesel fuel. It was thin enough to do what I wanted.theastronaut wrote:You can go a step further than just oil. I mix up mineral spirits, paraffin wax, and light oil to spray in cavities.BarnieTrk wrote: I'm using just oil under my Slicks.....
Here is a past link on this issue where I explain my reasoning: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6202&hilit=oil+rust
BarnieTrk
Details here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/show ... ?p=5547533
Years back, I also used an electric-powered pressure sprayer....but using it put too much oil in the air instead of on the underside of my truck. I used more oil and I ended up receiving a good coat of oil as well, not fun & too messy.
For the last 15-20 years, I've simply used a one quart hand sprayer (like this: http://www.jondon.com/trigger-sprayer-h ... stant.html ). Such a sprayer can be inexpensively & easily picked up from your local Home Depot/hardware store. I don't use it for anything else. It doesn't have a power cord or hose to get me tangled up in and it is smaller/easily to store. I simply set the quart sprayer inside an empty coffee can to keep it from leaving an oily footprint. After a year or two, typically the sprayer head will go bad/leak, but they are cheap enough that I simply buy a new one. It has an adjustable nozzle that can mist or spray a stream. I spray under the doors, all the hinges & joints, leaf springs, suspension fasteners, floorboard seams, down the cowl vents, metal brake & fuel lines, connections & bleeders, under the hood, the bed seams, etc. I do not spray directly on any exhaust piping, V-belts or brake disc/drums. I don't soak the alternator, although I do briefly mist the outer aluminum case to kill the exterior aluminum oxidation. I make sure I spray the lower portions of the radiator support and around the headlights good, as they seem to 'dry out' rather quickly. I have not had any issues with it being detrimental to any electrical wiring or harness sockets. I typically give the truck a good spray job at least twice a year. You'd be surprised how many squeaks I kill!
When I bought a '95 Jeep Wrangler to plow snow with, I had to give it multiple "spray treatments" as the oil was soaking into the metal so much. After about four weeks/treatments, the underside finally started to hold & keep the 'wet' look. It is better to spray it again a day or two later than apply a heavy coat simply only to have it drip off.
Sure, the truck smells like diesel fuel for a couple of days, and if I spray it too much in any one area, it will drip off some, but I park it on the gravel for a day or two and then its gone. I like the 'wet but clean look' it gives the undercarriage. Lastly, this method also gives me less grief when I need to do any work underneath - since there isn't a bunch of rusty scale falling on me and that the 40+ year old fasteners are much easier to deal with.
"It works for me! Your mileage may vary."
BarnieTrk
- Alan Mclennan
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- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
Years ago my parents place was flooded, the water went through the house by about 6 inches a real mess, it also flooded our work trucks, half way up the doors, soaking the under felt and seats
Dad got the boys to take out the seats and the floor coverings to dry them out over the weekend, that night at the pub he had been talking to a mate of he's about it, who told him what he should do to stop them from rusting. We arrived back at work Monday morning to the smell of a Fish market, He had painted the interior of all 4 utes and the Pride of the Fleet, he's Statesman Caprice with Fish oil and not the deodorised stuff... come as you are, smell and all fish oil !. It was all we could do not to spew driving around in them, it was well over 6 months before the smell went...or we had just gotten used to it. Had some of those utes for another 4 or 5 years after that, with no sign of rust... not that we looked under the mats.. just in case we disturbed the fish oil and brought back the smell!
Dad got the boys to take out the seats and the floor coverings to dry them out over the weekend, that night at the pub he had been talking to a mate of he's about it, who told him what he should do to stop them from rusting. We arrived back at work Monday morning to the smell of a Fish market, He had painted the interior of all 4 utes and the Pride of the Fleet, he's Statesman Caprice with Fish oil and not the deodorised stuff... come as you are, smell and all fish oil !. It was all we could do not to spew driving around in them, it was well over 6 months before the smell went...or we had just gotten used to it. Had some of those utes for another 4 or 5 years after that, with no sign of rust... not that we looked under the mats.. just in case we disturbed the fish oil and brought back the smell!
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
A "TOO COOL" story, Alan! Thanks for sharing!
BarnieTrk
BarnieTrk
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- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
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Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
yes thats very coolBarnieTrk wrote:A "TOO COOL" story, Alan! Thanks for sharing!
BarnieTrk
meanwhile i continue to find rot, and so i cut and weld.
except where oil from my old engine leaking landed and places like above the u-joint where excess grease slung on the bottom, those places do not show any issues
better off painting with oil thn poor15
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
You must have had every stray cat for miles at your house..
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Re: tinworms be gone, a rant on por15
come to think of it Lance, there were a few that hung around, I thought it was for the warmth of the truck, not appetisers !foodstick wrote:You must have had every stray cat for miles at your house..
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................