Advice wanted for finicky hydraulic lifters

[qwertyd10n]

Hi all,

I'm about ready to pull my hair out due to the inconsistent behavior of my hydraulic lifters and could really use some advice.

The engine is a pretty standard stroker - 390 bored 0.030 over and stroked via a 4.250" Scat stroker crank for a total displacement of 445 cubic inches. Oiling mods were done to the block. I'm running a Comp Cams custom grind hydraulic roller camshaft (dur. @.050 233/244, lift .577/.579, LSA 112) with Comp Cams hydraulic lifters (8934-16) and Harland Sharp rockers.

My issue is this... I get the valve lash set up as per best practices and the engine runs beautifully, but then inevitably one or more lifters will go down and the SOB starts ticking like crazy. Case in point, I had the truck out yesterday morning to do some running around and all was great. I came home for lunch and when I started it afterwards to take my daughter for a ride it starts ticking like a lifter is down. After telling her we can't go and dealing with a bunch of 6 year old tears, I begin to gently maneuver the truck back into the garage when the ticking magically stops. We resume our plan to go for a ride, but after turning it off to make a stop it starts ticking again when I start it back up. I limp the truck towards home and about 10 minutes later the lifter pumps back up and the ticking stops.

Any suggestions?

Cheers,
Dion

[BarnieTrk]

Hi Dion,

If it was my truck, I would try to determine which lifter(s) is/are doing the ticking.
By using a 2-3ft section of heater hose to listen along each rocker arm covers and exhaust manifolds trying to locate where the loudest ticking is coming from. Hopefully you will determine that it is only one and the same lifter every time.

Before I started to tear into the engine, I would warm the engine thoroughly, run it at least ten minutes. Then I'd dump in a quart of fuel oi (diesel fuel) into the crankcase motor oil. Then run the engine at about 1300 rpms for two to five minutes; then drain the motor oil thoroughly and change the oil filter. Add new motor oil & filter (I'd suggest 15W-40 Rotella T motor oil). Restart the engine and go for a 10-20 minute drive.

The diesel fuel is a high detergent oil that should break down a slug of crud that may have somehow gotten hung up in the oil system feeding that lifter that wasn't removed during the recent rebuild. Hopefully it will wash it out and you're good to go. If the above treatment does NOT work, then it may require you to pull the troubled lifter and try and clean it or simply replace it. You may want to pull the distributor and run a oil pump drive shaft down the hole and spin the oil pump with a 1/2" drill to see how well the oil is being pumped around... but that may not tell you much about your ticking lifter.

BarnieTrk

[chris401]

Hi Dion,

If it was my truck, I would try to determine which lifter(s) is/are doing the ticking.
By using a 2-3ft section of heater hose to listen along each rocker arm covers and exhaust manifolds trying to locate where the loudest ticking is coming from. Hopefully you will determine that it is only one and the same lifter every time.

Before I started to tear into the engine, I would warm the engine thoroughly, run it at least ten minutes. Then I'd dump in a quart of fuel oi (diesel fuel) into the crankcase motor oil. Then run the engine at about 1300 rpms for two to five minutes; then drain the motor oil thoroughly and change the oil filter. Add new motor oil & filter (I'd suggest 15W-40 Rotella T motor oil). Restart the engine and go for a 10-20 minute drive.

The diesel fuel is a high detergent oil that should break down a slug of crud that may have somehow gotten hung up in the oil system feeding that lifter that wasn't removed during the recent rebuild. Hopefully it will wash it out and you're good to go. If the above treatment does NOT work, then it may require you to pull the troubled lifter and try and clean it or simply replace it. You may want to pull the distributor and run a oil pump drive shaft down the hole and spin the oil pump with a 1/2" drill to see how well the oil is being pumped around... but that may not tell you much about your ticking lifter.

BarnieTrk

X2, it works. I have cleared up sludge, ticks, crud and trash with diesel and transmission fluid in different makes and models.

[36truck]

Marvel mystery oil work great for sticking lifters.
http://marvelmysteryoil.com/

[bruceandersson]

Who assembled the engine? FEs have a reputation of being a little particular. There are a lot of items that have been replaced that can mess with the geometry of the valve train. Your pushrods could be the wrong length, or your valve springs could be too strong. Also what oil are you using? There are a lot of oils on the market that do not hold their viscosity after warmup.

[qwertyd10n]

The engine was assembled my a professional builder and I am running Mobil 1 15W50 oil in it.

Dion

[bruceandersson]

I'd talk to your builder and see what he has to say. I can't speak to using synthetics in older engines. I used to use Castrol 20w50 for the summer and 10w40 in the winter until the newer engines required much lighter oils. I stuck with Castrol after having my first vehicle with a pressure gauge as it was the only oil that did not lose significant pressure after warming up. I'd try switching after using one of the cleanup methods mentioned.

[Roger Carter]

With the intermittent nature of your problem I would think maybe there is dirt, or other contaminate in the oil system.

Another "snake oil" treatment that has always worked for me is Valve Medic.

On the can it says that if it doesn't quiet noisy lifters mechanical work is indicated. In every instance I have used it over the years I have found that to be the case. I have even had it quiet the ticking before the can was fully emptied into the engine.

Like diesel oil or ATF, Valve Medic high detergent additive.

I would agree with bruceanderson and talk with your engine builder before doing anything further.

Good luck.

[milldinaire]

Half quart tranny fluid in the oil. More is not better. Rebuilt top end on 352. Super cruddy. Once reassembled lifters ticked. Tranny fluid cleared and cleaned up the rockers nicely. The tickING will slowly go away over say a hundred miles. Once gone throw some fresh oil in. Good luck.

[BarnieTrk]

Dion,
Were you able to track down & correct the "ticking lifter" issue?
If so, what did you do about it?

-- BarnieTrk

[qwertyd10n]

Hey BarnieTrk,

No, I haven't had the time to investigate any further yet... if it's nice this weekend I'll likely pull the truck out and see how much noise the lifters make or don't make. I think I may take some of the advice given about putting some sort of cleaning additive in and then change the oil out to see if that makes any difference. I did receive some feedback on the FE Forum site that the Comp lifters do not have the same quality they used to and that person has moved to a different brand (Howards). This would not be my first choice given the cost involved with buying a new set of lifters - as well as likely a new set of pushrods to fit.

Cheers,
Dion

[66camperspecial]

A local engine builder told me they had problems with Comp Cams lifters and I have two in a 351-W that make occasional noises.

[cooter]

lifters have been a problem with a lot of companies in the last few years. I order mine from Bullit Cams, they cost a few bucks but at least I don't have to tear motors apart twice. I wouldn't expect you will silence your lifters without replacing them. What kind of oil pressure are you running?