Let's talk about Fuel Gauges again

[BarnieTrk]

This is a '65 standard cab with the round instrument cluster. The behind-the-seat fuel tank and sending unit came out of a '68 F100.

In trying to get the stock gauge to work correctly, I ran a new wire from the sending unit to the fuel gauge. I ran a grounding wire from the tab on the top of the sending unit to a screw on the back of the cab, 6" away. There is 1/2 to 3/4 tank of fuel in the tank. Using my VOM, I can get a "bouncy" zero to 4.5 volt readings. The temperature gauge works fine, which also feeds the fuel gauge, so this leads me to believe that the instrument voltage resistor is ok.

When I turn the key to ACC or ON, the fuel gauge needle barely moves off of EMPTY, but it does move - maybe a needle's width, then stops. If I remove the sending unit-to-gauge wire and ground it out and turn the key to ACC or ON, the gauge slowly crawls up to FULL. This makes me think the gauge is working ok.

Do you guys think that this S-L-O-W gauge movement could be a poor ground or feed connection? I think I will revisit my wiring connections... make sure they are clean and add a dab of diaelectric grease to them in an effort to ensure a good connection.

If the connections are all good, might it be a bad sending unit reostat or bad float?

Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions Guys?

BarnieTrk

[Toyz]

duplicate, can't delete!
Paul

[Toyz]

Quite possibly a perforated float from your listed symptoms/ testing. Check the arm travel with sender removed and grounded. If gauge moves porportionately, replace the float. The "bouncy" signal is normal, it is a pulsed feed.
Paul

[BarnieTrk]

Quite possibly a perforated float from your listed symptoms/ testing. Check the arm travel with sender removed and grounded. If gauge moves porportionately, replace the float. The "bouncy" signal is normal, it is a pulsed feed.
Paul

Thanks for your review of my situation and the suggestions to check arm travel when out of the tank and whether or not the float is bad. I also appreciate your assessment that the 'bouncy' signal is normal. I will do as you suggested and report back with my findings.

BarnieTrk

[BarnieTrk]

Quite possibly a perforated float from your listed symptoms/ testing. Paul

WHY YES, YES IT DOES HAVE --- A PERFORATED FLOAT! CONGRATULATIONS, PAUL, YOU ARE THE MAN!

Thanks again, Buddy.

(Once I've located and installed a new float, I'll report back here with the results)

BarnieTrk

[Toyz]

When you replace it, be sure to throw the old one away! Don't ask how I arrived at that wisdom; let's just say that gasoline eventually evaporates, and I have a terrible pack rat habit!
Paul

[BarnieTrk]

When you replace it, be sure to throw the old one away! Paul

No worries there, my Friend!
The old float was so corroded that the loop end of the brass float fell into pieces getting it off of the arm! From what I've read, it seems that the newer-style plastic float is recommended over the OE brass-style float; as they are less corrosive to ethanol blended fuels. I usually try to run 100% gasoline in the ol' FE, but sometimes it isn't available when I need it....
Hopefully, I will be able to pick up a float locally tomorrow.......

BarnieTrk

[ICEMAN6166]

When you replace it, be sure to throw the old one away! Don't ask how I arrived at that wisdom; let's just say that gasoline eventually evaporates, and I have a terrible pack rat habit!
Paul

i have soldered single pinholes in floats before, works ok but be very sure the float is clean and empty

when i got my rambler the gas gauge did not work, found a hole in the float so i replaced it with one i had from a slick, same dimensions so no issues
still have the holey one somewhere

[BarnieTrk]

No fixin' this one, Brian! Funny you should mention using a Slick float in your Rambler, because what I located had a application listed for a Jeep; not a Slick nor a Rambler.

I couldn't locate a "replacement sending unit float only" locally, so I looked at Tom's FlashbackF100, NPD and a few other classic online sites but if they listed one, is was only the brass OE-style float. This float http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OMX-1772901 from Summit is a plastic unit and listed for a Jeep, but I hope it will work for my Slick. I'm hoping I'll get it by Saturday...

(funny, I've been without a working gauge for literally years, but now that I've got the unit apart and waiting on parts, I'm anxious to finish it up.)

BarnieTrk

[BarnieTrk]

This float http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OMX-1772901 from Summit is a plastic unit and listed for a Jeep, but I hope it will work for my Slick. I'm hoping I'll get it by Saturday... BarnieTrk

WELL - SURPRISE, SURPRISE!!!
Guess what showed up on my porch today?
Yep, I ordered it YESTERDAY and I GOT IT TODAY!!

This plastic float is the very same size & shape as the OE brass float. It snapped right into the hook on the arm of the sending unit without any hesitation! A smear of some grease on both sides of the cork gasket and a touch on the five attaching bolts/screws, snug down, then attach the two wires again. Turn the key to ACC and WA-LA.....my gauge says I've got 3/4 of a tank of fuel!

Ok, so most of you guys are saying, "WTH, all you did was install a new float, Dude".
But what you don't know is how my luck has been running lately...... PURE BAD, I mean stickin' BAD LUCK lately.
So to have this work out as easy as it did - it's a big deal at my house!!

Paul & Brian,
Again - thanks for your replies & input. Motor easy, Fellas!!

BarnieTrk