Windshield

[CHOPPERS]

Hi, well I need to replace my front windshield, So I see repop windshields, not too bad, but which one, the tint on top or the greenish tint, which do you guys use? Also, The gaskets, I see one with and one without the chrome strip, which one, I have a strippy 62 uni, but the guy gave me some trim, not installed, which would you guys more commonly use? Thanx, Steve-o

[bruceandersson]

Either windshield will work. The green one is closest to original if that matters to you. It can be a little more of ab effort to install with the trim as it goes in the gasket on the windshield before the install and makes things a little tighter. I use a little oil to help get the gasket installed and use the rope trick. The last one I installed with the trim, I had to use a 3" wide nylon ratchet strap to pull the top in flush as I worked the rope. Where are you sourcing the windshield and what price have you found? There's a guy out of wisconsin that has the striped one for $100 u pick up and $200 delivered. (prices are approximate).

[CHOPPERS]

Not sure where, need something within 3 months.....probably gonna go without chrome?

[Leeroy]

I've done chrome, new glass and seal on both 62 and 66 windscreens. Neither had them from the factory. (Didn't get them in Australia) I personally prefer the look of the chrome moulding, looks much more period to me and the chrome is really what makes these stand out from newer cars. That said, I think the non chrome seal sits 'more flush' and probably is a bit neater. Both mind looked a little Bulgy after the chrome mound was installed

[64 f100]

Since you are new at this and no one has mentioned it, I will. There is a bedding compound to help the glass seal that Ford no longer makes, but 3M does. In addition, I will point out that if you have the time and are inside with your truck, there are several things you can do to improve sealing of the glass. If you have not had the glass out before you may not have seen how shoddy the welding process was prepped before Ford installed the glass and you will understand why the sealing compound is needed. The metal is sandwiched together and spot welded and gazillion times, leaving indentations and burrs everywhere. Judicious use of a file or grinder to smooth the burrs out and if you want to go that far, fill some of the worst dimples from the welding, will make the install go like butter. After you've worked on a few of these trucks you will notice how many leaked around the windshield especially when the compound was used. I use the compound both in the glass groove and the cab groove. Keep in mind, that this is anon hardening black gooey stuff that is somewhat like a graphite colored grease, and it is nasty. When fresh, it will come off easily with paper towel and carb cleaner. Keep a roll of towels handy and a fresh can of carb cleaner. You might want to wear a pair of thin cheap gloves when doing the install, so you can throw the gloves away after. First time is always a guesswork type of thing. Frankly, the back glass is much worse than the front on the install and diluted dish soap is a must in either case. In case you did not know, the back glass goes in from the inside. Both front and back are really a two man job. I actually prefer 3 for the front glass with the stainless trim, one inside and two outside , one on each side. If, you have someone who is an older glass man and has done it before quite often they will do it for you for about 25$ per glass, if you have all the stuff needed. Windshields actually cost about 60$ to the glass shops that keep these in stock, but they won't tell you that. There is a company I believe called NewUlm that advertises windshields in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that sells windshields for 100$ and if you go the big swap meet at the Raceway will install these for that same price, but I have no idea if they use the 3M compound with the install. It is unfortunate, that although these people have connections where you can pick up these windshields at the 100$ price there is none in our area. I've bought several in Baton Rouge thru these people, but it's been a couple of years. The main problem is getting these from Baton Rouge to my home in southern Illinois. I generally keep a couple on hand as I have several trucks, and nearly every truck I buy needs a new one. I go down and visit my brother just outside Baton Rouge and pick the windshields and bring those back. The 3M product costs anywhere from 12 to 15 $ per tube, and will easily do the front glass and you might possibly be able to do both front and back with one tube. One other word of advice on the trim, make sure you have all the little joining clips for the four places it is needed , as these are rare and costly to replace an a pain to fool with. All stainless needs install before the windshield is installed. There are tools that help make the install easier, and although I have not looked there may be some videos on Utube of an install with rubber gasket I suggest you look for one.

[CHOPPERS]

There is a windshield in the truck, but clear siliconed in and a big rock chip, the guy gave me some original chrome, So far, I want the original look, green tint glass....leaning towards an all rubber seal to match the rear window....I will clean up the glass recessed area, as it's getting some body work now, I just have to pull the glass,...I am in the south burbs of Chicago....I do see glass around $125.00....but shipping kills the deal, I will probably look at a local glass dealer and ask him to order one in.

[64 f100]

If, you check around for an independent glass installer you may be able to get a better deal. Go to a glass shop and most likely they will want 200 just for the glass, but may do the install for that. Just make sure they use the sealer I am talking about. I buy the sealer from my PPG paint dealer in Evansville, Indiana. These trucks were very bad about leaking around the front glass, for the reasons I mentioned before. Once you get the glass out, you will see what I mean. The bottom corners are especially hard to get to seal. The rubber does not want to lay down right and I've found the spot welds there seem to deform the metal worse there. Most of these windshields I have removed. have had the rubber seam where the rubber is spliced together, in the center bottom of the windshield. I use about a quarter inch bead in the groove of the rubber where the glass installs, and then install the rubber on the glass, using tape to hold it in place. I then let it set for a couple of days in a warm environment before trying to do the install. Before install I run a bead of the sealer inside the groove for the frame, some like to put the sealer on the frame on the outside instead. Be prepared to have a nasty mess if you put the sealer in the groove for the frame as the chord will come out with a coating of the stuff. The one tool that I find very helpful doing an install, is something like a screwdriver with a crook on the end that looks like you bent your finger around in the opposite direction and has a pointed end. It comes to a point but you don't want one with a real sharp end as you can poke it right thru the rubber if not careful. A chord of about 3/16 inch diameter is also necessary long enough to go completely around the windshield and overlap at the bottom. You start the install at the bottom. Most likely you know all of this, but some may not is the reason I mention these things. The first time I watched someone install a windshield I was surprised at how hard they were thumping it to get it in place. I watched and learned , they were using the palm and heel of their hand in this process spreading the impact and pushing at the same time working the glass in position. Installing used glass is somewhat harder to do as it seems the older the glass is the more brittle it becomes and will break more easily.

[CHOPPERS]

I am trying to get a quote for the windshield, just checking, I have a 62 Mercury Uni M250....same as any F100?