New brake lines to dual MC

[slixty6]

I have been a member here for a while, and love finding the information I need. Well I finally started my project 66 Ford F100 SWB. First thing I am looking at is changing the single pot MC to dual. First off, I'm not a mechanic but I am mechanically incline. I am planning on ordering a kit from MP Brakes (only because I want all new parts).

What I need is a diagram or a drawing of how the new brake lines will run. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I will be a pest on here and ask a million questions as this is my first attempt at building a truck.

[orangeRcode]

There is a wealth of info available here. Be sure and do a quick search, you may find what you seek. If not, I'm sure somebody has a schematic laying around somewhere.

Be sure and do an introduction page. Tell us about you and your truck! Welcome.

[slixty6]

Thanks, and I will do that profile. I have checked all over, even on other forums. I guess to some it is one of those things that everyone should know. I could figure it out, but I to ease my worries, help on this would be great.

[foodstick]

When ever I ran new lines, I just bent them and ran them right along the old set.. and then removed the old ones after the new is built. The main thing on a stock replacement is to try to keep the lines where debris can't bounce up and hit it badly. As for having two lines off a manual master, and running stock brakes I am not sure whether most people use a proportioning valve? I am not sure you can lock the wheel with those brake shoes on dry pavement ! Well maybe.. hahahahah

I always ran connected pieces end to end. I never bought the coil and straightened it. I am not even sure how much a tool costs to put the ends on that tubing?

[slixty6]

Thanks for your help, I think after looking at it a while I may have a plan. Just making sure, mainly because brakes are a serious thing to get wrong.

[FarmMotorSports]

If you decide to use a roll, look at the nickle copper Blend's... easy to shape and flare, and good durability thanks to the nickel content...

Curpro brake line and nickel-cupro brake line are just a few ways I have seen it listed...

I bought 25' of 3/16" and 1/4" with a selection of fittings for $60.

Some people like it, and I have heard complaints...
I'll be using it.

[Fanatic]

[facepalm]

I just finished doing this. Basically I just followed the old lines. I bought a bracket from amazon to mount the proportioning valve directly under the master cylinder, https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performa ... B00JPBDKCK, I ran the rear out of the back and the fronts out of either side. I also bought my NiCopp brake line from Amazon, I bought a roll of steel first, but it was really hard to bend and flare, the NiCopp you can bend by hand if need be. I used all 3/16 tubing, the worst part was the junky fittings, I ended up having to use a couple of the 50 year old fittings, better metal. It's not perfect, but have you seen my truck?

[slixty6]

Thanks for the info. I figured I would have to run them basically the same as stock, but the rear line would have to bypass the original junction and run straight to the MC. The front would run from the front junction block to the MC. Is this the correct idea? Seems too easy

[cwindsor]

CPP also makes some nice setups if you need The Master and valve combo... They also carry the 61-64 Disk brake setup for the straight axle.

[facepalm]

Thanks for the info. I figured I would have to run them basically the same as stock, but the rear line would have to bypass the original junction and run straight to the MC. The front would run from the front junction block to the MC. Is this the correct idea? Seems too easy

Nope; the picture in the 7th post down shows the distribution block, proportioning valve is shown here:



This is how you need to run them. A lot of folks use couplings, but new lines all around is really the way to go, they are 50 years old.

[facepalm]

I just noticed you made no mention of a disc brake conversion... Scratch almost everything I said. You need a distribution block from a Bumpside. It will still run the same a proportioning valve though. From the master cylinder to the block twice, from the block to the left front, from the block to the right front, from the block to the rear.

[slixty6]

I am running disc on front, drums in the back. The kit I have decided to use is from MP Brakes. The kit comes with everything to do the conversion. I ran through the numbers if I used a donor truck versus new. Well after you replace all the old with new from the donor, the kit is not too expensive compared.

[Toyz]

I am not familiar with the MP kit. My suggestion would be to follow their instructions. Their provided master cylinder may have the large reservoir away from the firewall, or vice versa like the early Ford disc systems. You will need a residual valve for the rear brakes, it may or may not be mounted in the rear brake port of the m/c. A good solution: IMO, is a replacement combination valve from a seventies F-series. It will have a proportioning valve well suited for our applications, as well as other features seldom found on aftermarket units.
Paul