292 build thread & colors, miss. Parts,ideas wanting input

[aj64f100390-292]

Well..im having to throw together my 292 early as my 390s spooking us as if its the rings..so it could go from running like a champ to trash soon....
So my solution is to throw this 292 together ,so my heads are done waiting for me to pick up, my temp block is waiting to be checked and bored .40 over and im going to run my .40 pistons from my block that we will bore .80 or more in a year or so.
Full specs- to be cont.
-ecz-g heads: stainless valves: intake valve size , exaust valve size, new valve seats. ..I have $1k in these heads..this engine better run like a striped arse ape or monkey-my dads always said monkey but Ive been told its supose to be ape..

-ECZ-9425 4bbl intake

-Car dual exaust manifolds

-edelbrock 600 cfm-model name escapes me

- 302 aftermarket stock style dizzy with 292 shaft- duraspark II, newer cast design 'no oil port. But I havent bought it yet

-Full tru PCV system

The rest will have to wait..the total cost for my middle
parts is $495 that includes lifters, cam, pushroods...& tru roller timing chain if I remember right. Thats for the good stuff and its from mumfort but its still around there when shoping around for other brands. That does not include the cost of using my c2ae tough car rods replacing wrist pin bushings and all or turning my f600 forged crank down so f hat its true. So for now I'll just run my ebu rods on my .40 over pistons, and take any good used part and run it for a year at most hopefully, while I get my other goodies for it. As much as I dont like putting it together with used parts..with the risk of the 390 going south really quick..I dont have a choice and I can still sell this block with the best out of my 2 pairs of heads as a low milage motor.
Anouther thing is..I have no clue what color to paint it, obviously I have ideas but I'm undecided....but Ive thought alot about going with ford blue early or late, so that when I get some aluminium parts it will stand out more.. or just red or gold..I could go turquoise to match the truck a bit..I would have to be diligent to keep it looking nice if i went with a color as loght as carribean turquoise..and they probably don't sell that in rattle can. Also whats the best rattle can engine paint to use if I go that route? I used dupli color engine enamel with ceramic to paint my valve covers on my 390 4 months ago..it stains awfull easy..I only left blow by on them for a day and it started to stain..but its not to bad and is pretty durable for rattle can paint after wiping it with a oily micro fiber cloth that isnt the cleanest...I cant see any major scratches thread, but just trying to explain everthing the best I can. But a fresh motor shouldnt have any blow by or oil leaks if you did things right but things happen

Any thoughts & ideas are apprecieated

[Jason_S]

I'd be tempted to use Ford red/orange for the block, heads, intake and oil pan with gloss black on the valve covers (and probably valley cover). Think it would really stand out against a turquoise body paint and aluminum add on parts.

Have used duplicolor engine paint in the past and had good results.

[aj64f100390-292]

I'd be tempted to use Ford red/orange for the block, heads, intake and oil pan with gloss black on the valve covers (and probably valley cover). Think it would really stand out against a turquoise body paint and aluminum add on parts.

Have used duplicolor engine paint in the past and had good results.

now thats an idea...hmm that would stand out pretty well.. The good that comes out of sticking it together early as a temporary thing is that if I decide I want a different color I can next time...

[charliemccraney]

It takes more than heads to make any engine run "like a striped arse ape." The G-s are among the best factory heads for a Y and will realistically support about 300hp as cast, so you are on the right track.

The driver's side car exhaust manifold will be a challenge to make work since the steering box is in the way. Rams horns are reproduced, which are better than the car manifolds and of course, there are headers, which are the best for power. You can always sell the car manifolds to recoup some of the money spent on rams horns or headers.

The 600 Edelbrock will be big, if you go with a stock to mild cam. It could be small if you go with a wild cam.

Also depending on the cam you go with you should use an mewagner PCV Valve. It is expensive but because it is adjustable, it works on almost any engine. Otherwise, it is just a guess as to whether the valve you have chosen will actually work properly - this is true of any modified engine.

I've used several brands of engine paint and cannot tell any difference as far as durability. As long as the engine stays clean, and any leaks are addressed quickly, the paint performs well. On a vehicle that is driven, it simply is not going to stay perfect, no matter what coating you use. The heat, chemicals, and road grime involved take their toll.

[64 f100]

Your mixing of information from the y-block to the 390 is confusing. If, building the y-block, then there are several pieces of information you need. First, the heavy duty timing set was a double roller set. There was recently a new set on Evilbay for 100$. More cost effective, but this is about the going price for a NOS set, if you can find one. Those are out there, but don't get it confused with the set for the Lincoln y-block for the big trucks. The 292 times different from most engines and it is important to know this. The dots on the gears go to the side and not to the top or centers as on many engines. The timing marks have a specific number of links between the marks ( 11 or 12 I don't remember which but go to the drivers side of the block. Some years ago there were instructions in at least one book that had this wrong, so be careful. The main thing I will stress here is the seal going in to the oil pump, this is not included in the engine overhaul gasket set and has to be bought extra, about 10$ plus shipping from Dennis Carpenter. If You cannot find any, I have a few new ones. I have a ruined motor because someone did not know about the seal and the pump cavitated and did not get oil. Just make sure you get the cam bearings in right, the center one feed oil to the top end.

Rich

[Day 2]

"id have to be diligent to keep it looking nice"
Yep...thats why I like black!!!

[charliemccraney]

Best Gasket, and Felpro gasket sets come with the oil pump seal. Of those two, Best Gasket is the best set to get for a Y-Block as it is more complete, comes with higher quality gaskets and a better design for the oil pump tube seal. They also have a better design for the head gaskets.

[aj64f100390-292]

It takes more than heads to make any engine run "like a striped arse ape." The G-s are among the best factory heads for a Y and will realistically support about 300hp as cast, so you are on the right track.

The driver's side car exhaust manifold will be a challenge to make work since the steering box is in the way. Rams horns are reproduced, which are better than the car manifolds and of course, there are headers, which are the best for power. You can always sell the car manifolds to recoup some of the money spent on rams horns or headers.

The 600 Edelbrock will be big, if you go with a stock to mild cam. It could be small if you go with a wild cam.

Also depending on the cam you go with you should use an mewagner PCV Valve. It is expensive but because it is adjustable, it works on almost any engine. Otherwise, it is just a guess as to whether the valve you have chosen will actually work properly - this is true of any modified engine.

I've used several brands of engine paint and cannot tell any difference as far as durability. As long as the engine stays clean, and any leaks are addressed quickly, the paint performs well. On a vehicle that is driven, it simply is not going to stay perfect, no matter what coating you use. The heat, chemicals, and road grime involved take their toll.

Ok, thanks ya I know its a combination of parts, but for me at the moment running really good is at least as good as the 390 is now..in terms of get up and go...hopefully ALOT better than the average stock 292 truck motor, but then again my father had another 64 that ran great spun on take off, it had rusted out exaust, he had a shop put new exaust on, well, the shop said they used oe spec size pipes.. he said they were really wimpy, espeacially the cross over pipe, it never ran worth a crap agian .. but it still wasnt the best on the hwy is what i think he said as far as how it ram before he put new exaust on it, but it may have been oe spec..but its not like ford intended these trucks to be sporty. For now until I get my other parts together for the .60 over or more build , I just want to be able to have the kind of reponse the 390 has at least for now, and its got alot more stroke then a stock 292 ever had so it should wind out a bit faster.

[SteveCanup]

Another paint idea. Mine was Ford Red? I painted the entire block black and used Rustoleum Gloss White on the valve covers....it has held up really well. If I recall the black was "I don't see any stinking oil black" ....lol....

[charliemccraney]

You have to be realistic. A 390 has 98 more ci. That's about a 33% increase from a 292. So everything else being equal, a 390 will always out power a 292.

Don't get me wrong, a 292 can perform very well and can be easily made to outperform stock or mild 390s and if done right, you are going to love it. But by expecting comparable performance with a 98ci handicap, you are setting yourself up for disappointment.

With the parts you plan to use, it will be far better than the 292 that would have come in a 1964 and probably even better than the 292 of 1957, which is when the Y was at it's peak of factory performance. It should be a nice running engine, with enough power to be fun.

[aj64f100390-292]

Another paint idea. Mine was Ford Red? I painted the entire block black and used Rustoleum Gloss White on the valve covers....it has held up really well. If I recall the black was "I don't see any stinking oil black" ....lol....

very nice engine! looks great I could take that and paint the letters green...but white...that sounds like trouble for my situation...my truck is FAR from done so it would be my luck that I would spill something on them...later on i may do a bright color...props on keeping that clean if its been in there very long.

[aj64f100390-292]

You have to be realistic. A 390 has 98 more ci. That's about a 33% increase from a 292. So everything else being equal, a 390 will always out power a 292.

Don't get me wrong, a 292 can perform very well and can be easily made to outperform stock or mild 390s and if done right, you are going to love it. But by expecting comparable performance with a 98ci handicap, you are setting yourself up for disappointment.

With the parts you plan to use, it will be far better than the 292 that would have come in a 1964 and probably even better than the 292 of 1957, which is when the Y was at it's peak of factory performance. It should be a nice running engine, with enough power to be fun.

Thats very true...big difference in ci but that 390 is probably loose as a goose...idle oil pressure is only 10 Ibs with the hv oil pump...everything except gaskets was used petty much when dad put it together, heck the block was cracked 25yrs ago when he did the FT mount build so it is no where near a tight motor other than 7 years ago he couldnt find the crank bearings in a short amount of and had to buy shim some oversized ones..I have no idea how he did it as I still didn't get it last time I asked and I was like 9 or so -Im getting off track. but while I figured it wouldn't really compare in performance to that old 390..but I appreciate the reminder to to make myself have a good expectation and not as high..I should always assume a little less so that if its great but not the same I can go wow this is nice and if its just as good or close i'm still happy either way...though my data was slow today and it took 1 minutes or more for my pages to load, so I forgot that completely to even consider engine sizes.
I'm in HS so I'm still learning and for me quick is probably relatively slow in alot of peoples eyes but I've driven a 96 dodge with a little 318 2 complete different engines I know but similar in ci size' and loved it so I'm excited for the y block heard some on youtube with a slight lope like the 390 has.... and no I don't speed-serious there..I just go up to the speed limit quick to have fun Occasionally
ya Its looking more and more like I defiantly need to use the old cam and lifters from the other block..because the one in the temporary block...dad never thought that 390 was that close to being worn out...then again he figured he would have the cab done and have time to build that 292 so the 390 would be out...so he didn't organize those lifters...we have them in oil but the screw up is already done. And he is Leary of using lifters from another block...but correction with the $600in in parts and machine work & the 150 i bought them for I have $750 in them...guess Should've bought aluminum heads and ran my old ones temporarily...maybe... $1400 more Id be able to afford aluminum heads..but whats done is done..ill post pics of my heads and parts this evening here soon and my heads specs..

[aj64f100390-292]

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Intake valves: 1.940
Exhaust valves: 1.600

Me and dad are worried that he didn't really hot tank them do to those rusty water ports and rust chunks FALLING out of said ports enough that i have to sweep the floor after moving them to take these pictures...I hope we don't have to have then hot tanked and reassembled...

[aj64f100390-292]

We may only have 750 in all total in them i may be wrong ill have to check tomarrow

[aj64f100390-292]

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[aj64f100390-292]

some ideas I've been tossing around for months..




this ones for the roller tips




I had one where they had baldy chrome valve covers and put 4.8 292 high performance badges on top each other in the middle. I thought about doing something similar but most aluminum covers don't have any flat spots to speak of...

this is what my heads looked like before having them took to the machine shop

[aj64f100390-292]

that one all ford blue y block now that I look is a Brazilian stage one y block , look at the fenders they're 65/66 style...they had non unibody unibody body style into "66...

[charliemccraney]

Hot tanking, or some other form of thorough cleaning should have been done. You want every part to be as clean as possible because you don't want chunks of crud breaking off and getting into the engine.
There is no sense spending so much money on a rebuild and skimping on a necessary part of that. It will be best to take them apart for a proper cleaning.

There is also some work that should be done to ensure that the larger valves will actually work as intended. You don't simply install larger valves and be done. Some very minor bowl (the port just behind the head of the valve) and chamber (unshrouding) work is required. Google those for loads of info. Without that, the heads may actually flow less than they did with smaller valves. You can pull this off with a Dremel, but a proper die grinder will make it a much easier and quicker job. It should also be a relatively cheap procedure for a pro to do, since it is not a full blown port and polish job.

[aj64f100390-292]

Hot tanking, or some other form of thorough cleaning should have been done. You want every part to be as clean as possible because you don't want chunks of crud breaking off and getting into the engine.
There is no sense spending so much money on a rebuild and skimping on a necessary part of that. It will be best to take them apart for a proper cleaning.

There is also some work that should be done to ensure that the larger valves will actually work as intended. You don't simply install larger valves and be done. Some very minor bowl (the port just behind the head of the valve) and chamber (unshrouding) work is required. Google those for loads of info. Without that, the heads may actually flow less than they did with smaller valves. You can pull this off with a Dremel, but a proper die grinder will make it a much easier and quicker job. It should also be a relatively cheap procedure for a pro to do, since it is not a full blown port and polish job.

My father had my uncle ask the shop if they hot tanked them and he didnt...so yes they WILL be hotanked and ill look in to the work you metioned and if its been done or not ,thanks that may still need to be done, i dont know yet