no brake lights or turnsignals

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BIGTRIP
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no brake lights or turnsignals

Post by BIGTRIP »

I expected 1 brake light to not work as the wire snapped off and the repair wasnt really much of a repair. not having both lights work OR turn signals IS a suprise. strangely enough the parking lights work. :roll:

add another thing to the list.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

I have been thinking about the wiring that snapped off. do i have to have that hood style connector on the pressure switch? is there something else that will work til i change my brake booster/master cyl/ brake light switch out for better stuff?
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
re54drider
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Post by re54drider »

You do not mention the year....My 63 has shared filaments for the brake lights and turn signals, so all current goes thru the turn signal switch. I fabbed a bracket for a pedal position type brake light actuator since the one on the MC never worked all that well. I got a switch off a GM type car...The pedal arm actuates the lights when it leaves the switch.
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

Check your ground, gently take apart the 3 pin connector right below the steering column, clean it up, and put it back together with some dielectric grease. You of course may have another issue but I have found this to fix the problem on about 90% of the old cars & trucks I've had.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

tonight I noticed the right (passenger) turn signal was lighting up again and the indicator on the dash lit up. the left wont light up outside or in the cab. so ill try the connection clean up.

the truck is a 65 but there isnt much "65" left to it. the pressure switch appears to be plumbed in using an adaptor that fits the adaptor that adapted the line into the MC... :roll: there are two prongs on it that use the hood style connector and they are not very secure on the prongs or connected to teh wire that goes to the brakes.

pretty soon though ill head back over there and look for the connection at the bottom of teh column and hit it with some wd and scrub it a bit before the di electric.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
blackagatha
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Post by blackagatha »

I would crap can the pressure switch... the hooded connectors can be replaced with female bullet splice connectors...
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

right on! I plan to do another switch asap but I have something else going at the moment. I just need to make it work in yet another attempt for a temp fix. "bandaid"
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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

ok I had my tech brother over and he fixed the turn signals/trimlights but he spent the majority of the day trimming teh rats nest of wire hack under the rear bumper away to see what the POs owner did. I guess the guy went in with a machete to chop in a trailer light adapter and ruined the wiring for me. NICE right? thats not all my friends... he had the taillights wired to a positive that was hooked into teh trimlights SO I would have only had brakelights when the trimlights were on. MORE you ask? how could it any more fun? it has been mentioned that mst turnsignal problems are the 3 pin connector at the base of teh steering column. mine is 6 pin so does that mean my column isnt original? it doesnt bother me one way or the other as long as its workable.

I hit a link from here and looked at a wiring diagram for a 67.

anyway I gotta go eat ill post the plan when i get back

thank you for your support. lmao
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

ok 6 pin connector. im thinking its like this:

1) left turn signal
2) right turn signal
3) to flasher
4) to trim lights
5) to brakes
6) unused

so we wire the trim lights to the dim circuit on the bulb the brakes to the bright circuit on the bulb and the turn signal to the same bright circuit on the bulb by way of the flasher?
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
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jwh f-100
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Post by jwh f-100 »

1. from brake switch
2. from flasher
3. to RR
4. to LR
5. to LF
6. to RF


This may help also. It is a 64 diagram. http://www.tocmp.com/tOCMP/wiring/1964F100/
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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

tyvm. it should help alot.
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BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

new questions same subject.


do the brake lights need the key to be on to work? is this a f100 thing or an idiot PO thing.

I'll probably have more questions all weekend so bear with me.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
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DanSanDiego2000
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Post by DanSanDiego2000 »

My 1965 F100 is pretty much factory original..... no PO Mickey Mousing. The brake lights on my truck are a "Key On" item. The brake lights only work with the key on, but the emergency flashers work with the key off or on. Strangely, if the hazards are flashing, and I press the brake pedal, the dash indicators for the turn signal flash, too.
BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

thank you. Ill bet there isnt a single strand of wire 4 feet long in teh whole truck. its like the guy got a deal on bits of wire and connectors so he tore the factory harness out so he could use all his wire bits. :roll:

on the bright side... I drove the thing a few times. from my friends house and then again to the carwash. i still have a few issues I need to work out but I got home without problems. lol no brakelights or turnsignals and running open headers 8) its nice to drive it for a change.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
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jwh f-100
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Post by jwh f-100 »

jwh f-100 wrote:1. from brake switch
2. from flasher
3. to RR
4. to LR
5. to LF
6. to RF


BIGTRIP, just remembered something, there should be seven wires coming out of the column. The seventh is the horn. It comes out of the column and should go to the horn relay.

Getting back to your first issue... You need to check your connections leaving the cloumn just like Greg mentioned. If you are only missing stop and turn find those two wires right rear and left rear. I would actually put a jumper across your brake switch and make sure you have power entering your column then after that make sure you have 12v on those two wires leaving the column(make sure your turn signal lever is in the neutral position). If you do not it could be time for a new turn signal switch. If you have power there contine following the wires leading to the lights. When you get your brake lights working then try the turn signals, you may have already fixed them.
Jason

Beer will change the world.

I don't know how but it will.
BIGTRIP
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Post by BIGTRIP »

as of right now, the front turn signals work. the PO had wired in red trailer lights under the bed to shine red light on teh ground. when he did he pretty much destroyed the hack job wiring harness it has.

we were also spending alot of time trying to figure out why the brake lights wouldnt work without the key being on. :roll: I think the plan at this point is to buy wire that matches the colors on the column and run new wires that dont have a crimp connector every 10 inches.

being under the truck my brother wired the right (rear) brake and right turn signal work when the switch is on. the left rear isnt getting power at all so i am of the impression its the crappy wiring job the PO wasted alot of time doing.

it really sucks because the guy didnt use a single red wire for one part and single blue wires for another part. its all little pieces of red blue green and orange all hacked together that makes it hard as all hell to follow a wire. just because its orange in the CAB doesnt mean that the circuit doesnt change color 6 times before it gets to the light and once it DOES get to the light its all the same color. O.o


and we found the horn by accident... it clacked a bit at first but after a few seconds of "hey...whats that noise?" it gave a nice little beep. im glad to know it works just midnight under the window where people are sleeping wasnt cool. lol


when we are done removing the trash wire ill take a pic.
Being stroked is nice, but I would rather be blown!
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