MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I got a lot of painting done today!
The Setup.
The Results:
I used the Valspar Implement Epoxy Paint & Hardener. Mixed it 4:1:1 with VM&P Naphtha. It is around 50% relitive humidity, so after 5hrs it is still a little tacky.
I will spray another coat tomorrow and let it sit for a few days. (Very hard for me to do)
The Setup.
The Results:
I used the Valspar Implement Epoxy Paint & Hardener. Mixed it 4:1:1 with VM&P Naphtha. It is around 50% relitive humidity, so after 5hrs it is still a little tacky.
I will spray another coat tomorrow and let it sit for a few days. (Very hard for me to do)
I got the second coat on today. I missed a few spots the first time.
Setting up the paint gun was fairly straight forward. A few Youtube vids and some paper on the wall and I was good to go!
I am going to let it cure all day tomorrow and then start assembly on Thursday.
Tomorrow I am going to build the kids some Lincoln Logs.
Setting up the paint gun was fairly straight forward. A few Youtube vids and some paper on the wall and I was good to go!
I am going to let it cure all day tomorrow and then start assembly on Thursday.
Tomorrow I am going to build the kids some Lincoln Logs.
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Started on the Cab repair this week. Drivers side was the worst. I had already cut out the cancer so this is what I started with.
I started by remaking the inner support wall;
Then I fitted the Front step patch. I used a spacer block that is pitched the same as the hinge to make sure it will bolt up;
Next I worked on the step bottom and riser. The Step fits great and is a very nice piece. It only took 10min to straiten it up and work the flanges. They where not arrow strait. The Riser was very crappy. The curves are wrong and the flanges are crap. Also it is not tall enough and the flanges are short;
After working the parts I noticed that the riser looked very wrong where it meets the floor. The riser is not 90deg to the floor, there is a .5" tilt to it;
My floor is not that great, this with the short flange and no tilt back, is going to drive me to extend my floor by .5" by cutting the floor back and welding in a new piece.
Finally to finish the day I made the patch to finish the tower support;
My welding helmet broke. It doesn't go dark. So I need to get a new one before I can weld it all in. I just have a few tacks for right now. I need to drill some holes for I can "spot weld" the panels together.
Not a bad weekend at all.
I started by remaking the inner support wall;
Then I fitted the Front step patch. I used a spacer block that is pitched the same as the hinge to make sure it will bolt up;
Next I worked on the step bottom and riser. The Step fits great and is a very nice piece. It only took 10min to straiten it up and work the flanges. They where not arrow strait. The Riser was very crappy. The curves are wrong and the flanges are crap. Also it is not tall enough and the flanges are short;
After working the parts I noticed that the riser looked very wrong where it meets the floor. The riser is not 90deg to the floor, there is a .5" tilt to it;
My floor is not that great, this with the short flange and no tilt back, is going to drive me to extend my floor by .5" by cutting the floor back and welding in a new piece.
Finally to finish the day I made the patch to finish the tower support;
My welding helmet broke. It doesn't go dark. So I need to get a new one before I can weld it all in. I just have a few tacks for right now. I need to drill some holes for I can "spot weld" the panels together.
Not a bad weekend at all.
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Nice work.
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Looking good Dan!, becarefull with those autodark hats!, you can`t beat them!, but I got a couple of flashes on the weekend
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Some of the helmets are solar-charging. I set mine out in the sun for a bit before starting work to let it recharge.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I'm paranoid. I close my eyes & wait til I can "see" it has auto-darkened before I open them again... then again it's a cheap helmet & I do enjoy being able to see... great work, Max! Where'd you get the step patches?
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[ Post made via Android ]
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I think the sensor in mine is out. Let it sit in the sun for an hour and the sun wouldn't trip it. It is a cheep one from HF and is 5 years old, so no biggy.
I got all my patches from DC. The riser is not worth the money. I will report on the others as soon as I fit them.
[ Post made via Android ]
I got all my patches from DC. The riser is not worth the money. I will report on the others as soon as I fit them.
[ Post made via Android ]
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I think my helmet is OK. It is working fine inside at 70deg, but will not out in 35deg....hmmmm.
I will try setting it by the heater and making sure it is charged.
I will try setting it by the heater and making sure it is charged.
-
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Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
nice work... rust aint fun!!!!
- slickmainer
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Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
love the photos. i learn a bunch just from looking
--Gregg--
you can't get there from here
you can't get there from here
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Thats why I post them. I am a visual guy, so I would guess that others are too. I also want to be able to show them to the appraser once I am done.
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Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Well I fit the Riser to the step today. What a piece of crap. It wasn't even close to fitting. The only thing worse is the rocker panel.
The riser wasn't formed right and was cut way short. had to do a Pie Cut to get it to match the curve. Ended up doing a seam weld instead up a bunch of spot welds. Then about 30min of forming to get the riser flat again.
The Step is nice, just 1.5" to short. Had to add a piece to it.
I will post more on the crappy rocker tomorrow.
The riser wasn't formed right and was cut way short. had to do a Pie Cut to get it to match the curve. Ended up doing a seam weld instead up a bunch of spot welds. Then about 30min of forming to get the riser flat again.
The Step is nice, just 1.5" to short. Had to add a piece to it.
I will post more on the crappy rocker tomorrow.
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Just looked up the price at DC. $50 each for the riser and $30 each for the rockers...
That is a $160 mistake I hope none of you make. Buy some sheet metal working tools instead.
That is a $160 mistake I hope none of you make. Buy some sheet metal working tools instead.
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
nice recovery dan!, do you think they had been sold before?
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I got the Rocker Panel made and installed today.
Here are the pictures that show mine vs. the repop ones from DC.
The biggest problem is the profile:
Mine
Theirs
The repop one is also to short and the end doesn't even look right....but mine does.
I made mine by forming a U channel and then welding on the edge that I cut off the old one. The U is also wider at the top. I made it flair out so that the main portion would line up with the bead in the step.
Here are the pic of it installed.
I also got the back end cap blasted and welded in. I am going to cap the end of the bead to keep crap from coming in, but I am going to keep the center hole open for drainage.
Here are the pictures that show mine vs. the repop ones from DC.
The biggest problem is the profile:
Mine
Theirs
The repop one is also to short and the end doesn't even look right....but mine does.
I made mine by forming a U channel and then welding on the edge that I cut off the old one. The U is also wider at the top. I made it flair out so that the main portion would line up with the bead in the step.
Here are the pic of it installed.
I also got the back end cap blasted and welded in. I am going to cap the end of the bead to keep crap from coming in, but I am going to keep the center hole open for drainage.
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
Alan Mclennan wrote:nice recovery dan!, do you think they had been sold before?
I know they had been selling them for some time before I got mine. I do not think these are rejects...just a bad fit and quality control.
Re: MadMaxetc's 1963 Build
I bet DC would welcome the feedback. At any rate, nice work on making your own. Just more of the truck to feel good about when it's all done.
Ken
Ken