Blasters

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Hookedtrout
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Joined: February 9, 2011, 8:02 pm
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Blasters

Post by Hookedtrout »

In order to start my project I'm looking at getting a Soda/Sand Blaster and would love some input so I get headed the right direction.

-I'd like some input on how well the soda thing works vs the sand?
-What you guys have found as far as where to get a good blaster brand/type.
-Any other tips or advice?
-Anything to avoid?

Thanks for any input.
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
Bill W
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Post by Bill W »

first thing to consider is IF you have enough air to use the tool, Cabinet or Mobile unit?
jamesdfo
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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Post by jamesdfo »

I have been reading some very negative things about soda blasting....like it needs to have all surfaces rinsed/scrubbed with warm soapy water and a scotchbrite pad to remove any traces of soda from the surface prior to applying epoxy, or your primer of choice. I understand that DuPont will not warranty ANY subsequent paint problems if they know you had the vehicle soda blasted.
There is lots of chatter on this on various sites, a quick google should bring up some of them. I will look for the couple I remember, and will post them if I'm able to locate the ones I saw a good year plus ago...

James
jamesdfo
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Post by jamesdfo »

Here is one of the threads ( I started this one), but unfortunately, the link for SPI (Southern Polyeurathanes Inc) is dead, as they moved their forums...but some searching may locate it on the new forum...

http://metalmeet.com/forum/archive/inde ... -6307.html

and another where mention is made of DuPont & PPG not honoring warrantee on soada blasted substrates

http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubb ... ber=699464


James
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

An ordinary Harbor Freight pressure blaster will work just fine, I have a 20 lb unit - it doesn't take up alot of room when I'm not using it (they have other sizes). You need ALOT of air though! - you will also need a dryer. I have a 3.5 HP 3 stage 80 gallon compressor - it will still need a little catch up time blasting. Don't stay in one spot too long - you'll heat the metal too much and warp it. Buy yourself some disposable coveralls and tape up all the openings (wrists, ankles, hood etc.), you will still get sand in your clothes & hair. Wear a respirator under the hood (you'll thank me for that).
If you are talking about taking it to somebody be sure to find a place that has alot of experience blasting cars. If they are used to only heavy duty industrial blasting they accidentally can damage your parts by warping them.
It's a very messy, dirty job.
There are other abrasives that can be used other than sand. After you know what your looking for you will be surprised what you can find at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards etc. for some very good prices.


http://www.harborfreight.com/20-lb-capa ... 40925.html

http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hdrp_0606_p ... sting.html

http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/b ... -media.htm
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

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Hookedtrout
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Post by Hookedtrout »

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm looking for a portable unit.
I think my compressor is a 30 gallon, probably a couple HP unit from Sears. Is that not big enough? It really isn't my intent to blast the entire truck just the bad spots/rust/seams that you can't sand etc, will this compressor work?

Great input and I appreciate the info.
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
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61 Merc
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Post by 61 Merc »

You can do some small areas with that size of compressor, but by the time you get going you will be losing volume. I use a 18 CFM compressor and I still have to stop to let the pressure build up. In fact with mine, I have two 60 gallon tanks and lots of hose.

The abrasive you use depends on what you are trying to accomplish. I know that soda does leave a film on the metal, but will not eat the metal as sand will around rust. There are also glass beads that are expensive, walnut shells and a few other options.

I have heard from some of the Texans about this, DO NOT SANDBLAST IN THE NUDE. I think it was skip that tried it.

Dean
61 Mercury SWB Uni - Project
62 Mercury SWB BBW - Race truck
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Gritsngumbo
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Post by Gritsngumbo »

I bought the dual soda/media blaster from Eastwoods. Haven't used the soda side yet, but the media side works great. Dual hoses into one outlet so you can mix the two on the fly if you so desire. You will need a decent sized compressor that will keep up without being overloaded. I have a 60 gallon unit and it has a hard time at times. As I understand it, the soda does leave a film, but the upside is that (again, as I understand it) the film prevents flash rust until you get ready to prime/paint. Check out the demo videos on the Eastwood site. I've found that blasting of any kind is a much slower go than I had ever anticipated. You might want to consider one of the hand-held units (one's looks like a paint sprayer and the other is a siphon) like Tractor Supply has, if you're only going to do a few spots.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.


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Uncle Skip
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Post by Uncle Skip »

Dean.
That was not me sandblasting naked.
That was Joey and Bork.
If you missed those two, you've missed knowing a couple of certifiable nutcases.
Wish they'd come back to the club.
:lol:
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
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Hookedtrout
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Post by Hookedtrout »

Thanks guys, no nude blasting has been noted but as much as I've thought it through I can't understand why, I shall heed the advice however as I've certainly learned through my long life that it's wise to learn from others. I rarely attempt anything you can't photograph for the history of it and that would not be photogenic anyhow.
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
64 f100
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Post by 64 f100 »

Siphon feed is not a good system for a small setup. You need a pressure setup. You should use a resperator if at all possible. I have done some blasting with a small compressor, but it is limited and what you run into is water buildup from heat. I have a 5 horse two cylininder compressor, and frankly, this is not big enough. I ended up getting clumping from moisture in the blaster and hoses, and had to drain the hoses and tank on the compressor fairly frequently. I live in southern Illinois where it is extremely humid in the summer, that and overworking the compressor caused me a lot of problems. I have since bought a gas powered ingersol rand, which I believe adeqaute but still not up to what I believe I want. I have as yet not had a chance to try it out. Hopefully in the near future. I also have a larger compressor in the works, but it will not be ready for some time. It's another roundtoit project. Hopefully powered by a 3 cylinder diesel I have on a finish mower. I already have a volume tank for it and a four cylinder compressor which was previously ran by a 15 horse electric 3 phase motor. My other possibility is to get a phase converter. My poor little sears compressor is not sounding to well these days.

Rich
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Post by Obsa »

AIR is everything, Think CFM (cubic feet minute) not Volume (tank volume)or Horsepower. I had a pressure tank like Greg's only from Hormier's one of those traveliing tool sales. Had it for almost 4 years before I could actually use it. I had, still have, a 1 hp Sears/s[eedaire compressor that barely made 90 psi and using it was like just thowiing sand by hand at the surface. I lucked into an old Two stage 5hp Quincy that makes 175 psi @ 17.5 Cfm with an 80 gal tank. never have to wait for air. Of course now I just watch my son reap the benefits of it
As my dad used to say, somewhere there was a horse that died a painful death from terminal constipation due to missing a key part of its anatomy.
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ABA
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Post by ABA »

They use dry ice blasters to clean the tire molds at work. Can't here yourself think it you're within 30ft of it but man does it clean.
We also got a half a million dollar laser cleaner but that's another story.
'01 F150 Lightning
490RWHP
Gas Mileage? What's that?
Jerry
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Hookedtrout
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Post by Hookedtrout »

Thanks for all the advice, based on your input I'm thinking you saved me some money as I don't think I have the air needed at this point so I'll save the money for now and find another way, old school I guess.
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

If you just need to clean up some small spots Harbor Freight has some smaller blasters too.
I have considered getting the second one for small stuff.
Notice the air requirements on them. Your 30 Gal compressor should be able to run the first one. I wouldn't use it for a frame but if you just need to do small areas............


http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-a ... 37025.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-ab ... 92857.html
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
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Hookedtrout
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Location: Southeast Idaho

Post by Hookedtrout »

It's for dang sure if it didn't work you wouldn't be out much I guess. Worth a try. Now if summer would just get here so I can start playing with this new truck. We got another foot of snow this weekend. :cry:
Cory

1962 F100 SWB Unibody, 223
1931 Ford 5 window coupe
1968 GT/California Special Mustang, 289
Complete 61 LWB Unibody parts truck with 292 Y Block
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