It is currently April 19, 2018, 4:09 pm.

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: May 30, 2011, 8:55 am 
Offline

Joined: May 30, 2011, 8:11 am
Posts: 4
Great write up! Very detailed and nice supporting photos. How was the suspension so far?

My truck got cranky and bumpy lately and found out that one of the control arm bushing was broken. I'm surprised that just a small part could affect the entire suspension. After replacing the bushing, viola I'm riding smooth again.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: May 30, 2011, 11:46 pm 
Offline

Joined: May 30, 2011, 8:11 am
Posts: 4
psylocke024 wrote:
Great write up! Very detailed and nice supporting photos. How was the suspension so far?

My truck got cranky and bumpy lately and found out that one of the control arm bushing was broken. I'm surprised that just a small part could affect the entire suspension. After replacing the bushing, viola I'm riding smooth again.


I forgot to include that I replaced the part with a control arm and I am seeing the mechanic today to double check everything.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: October 12, 2011, 11:27 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: February 21, 2008, 4:51 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Billerica, MA
Weeeeell, it's been just about a year since the Jag front end went under the truck. Several people have been PMing me with questions and such, so I thought I would add some notes to this thread to keep all the info consolidated.
___

Thoughts:

The shock mounts have held up great so far. I've driven the truck hard, and there are no signs of fatigue at the weld joints. Not that they still cannot break; I just think they would've by now if it was an inherently poor design. Much of the shock force is in the vertical direction anyway, so it isn't really trying to tear the mount away from the crossmember. Means less critical force on my beginner welds. ✔

The springs are a touch too stiff for the weight of the F100. It corners like a frickin beast, but the ride can be jarring over really bumpy roads. Its still light years ahead of the straight axle, but I plan to look into alternative lower rated springs.

Speaking of cornering, the steering definitely takes some effort. I've concluded its actually a bit tougher than the stock Ford steering. Remember though, I'm not running a power steering pump- just straight up manual steering a power rack around. Its kinda lame but I kinda like it. At least that's what I keep telling myself. I guess I'm too lazy to put a pump on it. Honestly, if your used to good ol Popeye steering, you can run the Jag rack without a pump and enjoy the fast turning ratio.

Manual disc brakes on the other hand feel fantastic. Because the Jag calipers are so big, they don't really need power assist unless you want a super light pedal. I think coupling them with the 15/16" bore master cylinder was the ticket. The truck stops beautifully.

Lastly, if your planning to install your own Jag IFS, make sure you factor in enough caster into the angle of your crossmember. Don't count on being able to shim the upper arms enough to make up for poor crossmember positioning. If you're doing an F100 like mine, I'll tell you right now that with the crossmember sitting squarely on the frame as I have it, you will get away with just enough caster. If you don't run as much rake as I do, that'll help too.

That's all I can think of for now.

_________________
Just driving my truck.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 1:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 26, 2009, 12:58 pm
Posts: 414
Images: 20
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Hey Matt,
After seeing the new post "Jag Front End" from Merc Uni showing appreciation to you for his Jag front end installation, it caused me to re-read your thread again. It's still most impressive and informative, translated as AWESOME!! :)

A couple of things I'm curious about: when positioning the Jag cross member, did you move it forward to center the tire in the wheel well better than the original position? That's one thing I've never liked about the '61-'64's is that the front tire always looks like it sits too far rearward in the space. Ford seemed to correct it somewhat in '65/66 with the addition of twin-i-beam suspension by lengthening the wheel base an inch.

As for the Jag wheel bolt pattern, I wonder if it's possible to have machine shop weld up the stud holes & re-drill to a different pattern? Of course, since the Jag track width is .5" more narrow than the original, I suppose one could run wheel adapters and still have a more reasonable track width than the Crown Vic suspension, right? Given your setup, ride height, & tire/wheel size, do you think the additional 1" per side for the adapters would cause tire rubbing issues on tight turns?

Again, this looks like a very impressive & affordable alternative to the original buggy suspension and having the option to completely unbolt & remove is great! Plus, it looks like you installed the whole thing with your front sheet metal & engine still in place! Nice job! and EXCELLENT write up!!!
Thanks!
Randy


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 2:34 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Louisville,Ky
Randy I can answer the wheel stud question . Yes a machine shop can change the bolt pattern for you . Just understand everytime you need to replace the discs you are going to have to have the new rptprs redrilled to the new pattern . Personally I would leave them alone so it was less hassle maintenance wise and just run 2 differant lugg pattern wheels .


Rick

_________________
if it aint broke fix it till it is :D


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 2:40 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 26, 2009, 12:58 pm
Posts: 414
Images: 20
Location: Santa Monica, CA
rickairmedic wrote:
Randy I can answer the wheel stud question . Yes a machine shop can change the bolt pattern for you . Just understand everytime you need to replace the discs you are going to have to have the new rptprs redrilled to the new pattern . Personally I would leave them alone so it was less hassle maintenance wise and just run 2 differant lugg pattern wheels .


Rick


I understand that, Rick, but it appears that these hubs are separate from the rotors so replacing the rotors wouldn't require re-drilling the hubs each time. How often do hubs really need to be replaced anyway? Not too often. So that expense every 100K miles or so seems far less hassle than dragging around 2 spare tires to accommodate 2 bolt patterns. Just a thought... :)


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 2:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Louisville,Ky
Randy you are right I just went back and looked and the hubs and rotors are seperate so yes a machine shop could weld and redrill the patern no problem and it wouldnt effect changing the rotors at all . I will note though that Matt is running dual pattern steelies though so he still only needs one spare :D.

Rick

_________________
if it aint broke fix it till it is :D


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 3:00 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 26, 2009, 12:58 pm
Posts: 414
Images: 20
Location: Santa Monica, CA
rickairmedic wrote:
Randy you are right I just went back and looked and the hubs and rotors are seperate so yes a machine shop could weld and redrill the patern no problem and it wouldnt effect changing the rotors at all . I will note though that Matt is running dual pattern steelies though so he still only needs one spare :D.

Rick


Thanks, Rick, I forgot about the "dual pattern steelies" but for anyone who wanted to run a different style rim, the two bolt patterns would be problematic. It's always fun to find workable solutions. Either way, this looks like a pretty cool setup!


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 3:13 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 19, 2006, 9:27 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: Louisville,Ky
Matt I have another question I havent seen answered yet :D. How much room is there between the crossmember and the oil pan the way you have it set up ? The reason I ask is I am thinking about this option but I want to go lower " much lower " :D and would want to sink the crossmember into my frame rails much like we did with Volare clips :D.

Rick

_________________
if it aint broke fix it till it is :D


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 4, 2011, 8:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: November 12, 2011, 4:52 pm
Posts: 123
Location: Colorado Springs,Colorado
Forget photojournalism go straight to technical writing where your truelly and sorely needed !!!

Very nice article and your work looks as good if not better than many shops.

_________________
64 F-250 4x4 391 FT
66 F-100 4x4 352 FE
64 shortie 302/AOD


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject: Oil pan
PostPosted: December 5, 2011, 10:56 am 
Offline

Joined: September 7, 2006, 5:02 pm
Posts: 18
Location: North Vancouver B.C.
My install is very close to Matt's. We both use the Y block,but my headers are different.We both moved the wheels forward an inch or two. Not sure of the exact figure ;just moved things around untill I liked what I saw.I then made a guage to locate a fixed point so that the crossmember went in straight. There is lots of oil pan room. The place trouble may begin is the steering shaft side of the rack. Gets close to the oil filter by the time the U-joints are in.Sinking the crossmember will make this more critical. I am using GM 5 on 4.75 mags on the front and plan on redrilling the rears to the GM pattern.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
 Post subject:
PostPosted: December 14, 2011, 9:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: February 21, 2008, 4:51 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Billerica, MA
To answer some questions:

Yes, I moved the wheel centerline forward 1.25" to better position the wheels in the fender opening. It really makes all the difference in the looks and is not hard to do while you're rigging up the crossmember.

Randy, spacing out the wheels half an inch or so wouldn't be an issue, but I can't imagine not being able to find the wheel you wanted to run in the common 5x4.75 Chevy pattern. You are correct about the rotors though. They bolt to the backside of the hubs via a whole different set of holes. I also understand the inconvenience of carrying two spare tires! I solved that by not carrying any. Guess I'm just running on the wild side! :twisted:

Rickairmedic, there is about 2" of clearance between the oil pan and the crossmember. If you are interested in getting LOW, you can still do so even with the crossmember set up at the same location as I did. No channeling required. Instead, cut one or two coils out of the springs. It'll get you down where you want it. 8)

Here's a shot taken from behind the front right wheel:
Image

_________________
Just driving my truck.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: January 20, 2012, 12:49 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 1, 2012, 8:05 pm
Posts: 282
Images: 0
Location: Erlanger,ky
National Flag: United States of America
Great job. what was the cost total for the job? would that work on 66 f-100s.

_________________
1966 f-100 ranger,red and white,240,cruiseomatic,3.00 gear,a/c.


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 16, 2012, 2:57 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 16, 2010, 12:57 pm
Posts: 77
Images: 25
Location: Denton, Texas
I am slowly, and I mean SLOWLY doing this on my '65..One thing that I am running into that I don't think was brought up here.. is that the 65-on (ibeam) trucks have taller frames. From what I can find, 1" taller. So, to install the crossmember, like it has been described and shown here will not work. Or at least not that I can tell. The problem that the taller frame creates, is that the upper control arm does not clear the top of the frame. What I will have to do, is literally notch the bottom of the frame 1" to sink the crossmember inside the frame. OR notch out the top of the frame, to allow for the control arms to clear. But then, I have to wonder, if my ride height would be 1" higher..
Just thought I'd add!


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 26, 2012, 9:01 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 1, 2012, 8:05 pm
Posts: 282
Images: 0
Location: Erlanger,ky
National Flag: United States of America
Thanks HILLBILLYF-100 FOR THE INFORMATION. Always another mod to make to fit. tony

_________________
1966 f-100 ranger,red and white,240,cruiseomatic,3.00 gear,a/c.


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: April 26, 2012, 9:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 1, 2012, 8:05 pm
Posts: 282
Images: 0
Location: Erlanger,ky
National Flag: United States of America
Hope to see my friend's 63 at ford car show to ck out his JAG front end. Good luck with the mod, Hillbillyf100 The truck will sit low. :!:

_________________
1966 f-100 ranger,red and white,240,cruiseomatic,3.00 gear,a/c.


Top
 Profile Personal album  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 11:18 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 7, 2016, 8:13 am
Posts: 16
ive just done a Jag upgrade using this article as a blue print...it worked awsome....
changed on thing,...i reused the original F100 shock ,mounts but modded them to fit,..cut em down height wise n added a plate mounted onto the top of the frame rail....extended the top eyes outward about 3/4"..

As for the difference in bolt patterns....Im thinking about redrilling the axles....cause the Chevy 5 x 4 3/4" bolt pattern has lot more choice than 5 x 4.5" n way better offset for rear wheels


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group