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PostPosted: August 25, 2013, 11:24 pm 
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Joined: January 9, 2007, 4:15 am
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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I repaired the choke tube system on the rhino. I have mentioned how I did this, but now I will show it in detail with pictures.

I began by removing the manifolds, and separating them. This is the exhaust manifold. I have begun to drill a 1/4 inch hole through where the old choke tube was, in order to clear the crap and what not out of it.


I flipped the manifold over and drilled the hole out where the fresh air tube was, also with a 1/4 inch twist drill. I drilled a hole in the bottom and tapped it for a 1/8 27 plug. After this is done, you can clean out the inside cavity very easily. I prefer to use an old gun cleaning brush and brake cleaner. Now you don't have to worry about that steel wool crap clogging your choke.


In the last picture there was a short piece of copper tubing with a hole drilled in it. I inserted it into the manifold, with the hole I drilled facing away (down from my point of view).


Then the brass plug goes in the cleanout hole. Not only does it seal the cleanout, but acts as a set screw for the fresh air tube.


In this picture here you can see where I have attacked a piece of 1/4 inch brake line with a tubing bender. It is going to be the new choke tube.


Through the magic of television, I have re assembled the manifolds and attached the carb. I bent a piece of scrap copper tubing to approximate where my bends needed to be. That way I didn't have to bend by trial and error. The bends were close, but the tube was too long.


This is another view of it to show how it is bent.


The tubing cutter is your friend when doing stuff like this.


Now the tube fits. I am going to take it back off and shroud it in a fiberglass insulator.


This is just another view of the choke tube.


I covered the tube in a fiberglass insulator. It is actually a piece of a wood stove door seal from Home Depot. It is a heck of a lot more substantial than the glorified shoelace they give you in the choke tube repair kits. I covered the ends with heat shrink tubing, but you don't actually have to do that.


This shows the tube inserted into the hole that was drilled in the first picture.


This is what it looks like from the top after the fixing is done. This picture also shows a good shot of the bell crank I had to make to get the throttle to work on a 63 truck.


When you get all of the other stuff done, don't forget to run a 1/4 inch fuel line from the fresh air tube on the carburetor down to the air tube on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.


For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble

My '63 short wrongbed

"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.

Stuff I added to Hints and tricks

-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix

Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.


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