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PostPosted: August 25, 2013, 11:24 pm 
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Joined: January 9, 2007, 4:15 am
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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I repaired the choke tube system on the rhino. I have mentioned how I did this, but now I will show it in detail with pictures.

I began by removing the manifolds, and separating them. This is the exhaust manifold. I have begun to drill a 1/4 inch hole through where the old choke tube was, in order to clear the crap and what not out of it.

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I flipped the manifold over and drilled the hole out where the fresh air tube was, also with a 1/4 inch twist drill. I drilled a hole in the bottom and tapped it for a 1/8 27 plug. After this is done, you can clean out the inside cavity very easily. I prefer to use an old gun cleaning brush and brake cleaner. Now you don't have to worry about that steel wool crap clogging your choke.

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In the last picture there was a short piece of copper tubing with a hole drilled in it. I inserted it into the manifold, with the hole I drilled facing away (down from my point of view).

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Then the brass plug goes in the cleanout hole. Not only does it seal the cleanout, but acts as a set screw for the fresh air tube.

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In this picture here you can see where I have attacked a piece of 1/4 inch brake line with a tubing bender. It is going to be the new choke tube.

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Through the magic of television, I have re assembled the manifolds and attached the carb. I bent a piece of scrap copper tubing to approximate where my bends needed to be. That way I didn't have to bend by trial and error. The bends were close, but the tube was too long.

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This is another view of it to show how it is bent.

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The tubing cutter is your friend when doing stuff like this.

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Now the tube fits. I am going to take it back off and shroud it in a fiberglass insulator.

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This is just another view of the choke tube.

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I covered the tube in a fiberglass insulator. It is actually a piece of a wood stove door seal from Home Depot. It is a heck of a lot more substantial than the glorified shoelace they give you in the choke tube repair kits. I covered the ends with heat shrink tubing, but you don't actually have to do that.

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This shows the tube inserted into the hole that was drilled in the first picture.

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This is what it looks like from the top after the fixing is done. This picture also shows a good shot of the bell crank I had to make to get the throttle to work on a 63 truck.

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When you get all of the other stuff done, don't forget to run a 1/4 inch fuel line from the fresh air tube on the carburetor down to the air tube on the bottom of the exhaust manifold.

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_________________
For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble

My '63 short wrongbed

"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.

Stuff I added to Hints and tricks

-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix




Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

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