Removing Ignition Lock and Switch

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William-in-St. George
Posts: 42
Joined: July 18, 2006, 3:55 pm
Location: Saint George, Utah

Removing Ignition Lock and Switch

Post by William-in-St. George »

Removing the lock cylinder and ignition switch on an Slick.
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE AT THE BATTERY
You need the ignition key or you will have to drill the lock cylinder. With the key in the ignition turn it to the ACC position. Below the key on the face of the lock cylinder is a small hole. Under this hole is a spring loaded detent that works in a slot behind the face of the lock cylinder. This detent is only accessible with the key in the ACC position. Using a paperclip, depress the detent about 1/32 of an inch and turn the key left past the ACC position about 1/16th of an inch. Remove the paper clip and the lock cylinder should come straight out. Examine the back of the lock cylinder face and its relationship to the slot and detent. Look for a tiny indentation just past the end of the detent slot. For ease of reinstalling the cylinder the detent should be sitting in this indentation.

Note how the switch is installed in the dash before you remove it. With your left hand reach under the dash and push the ignition switch hard towards the dash. The switch is spring loaded. You will feel the spring compress against the dash. With your right hand hold the ignition bezel and rotate the switch clockwise with your left hand while continuously pushing hard towards the dash. The bezel should come off easily. The bezel is keyed to the lock cylinder with two pins similar to those found on automotive light bulbs. The pins are different sizes so you cannot install the bezel in the wrong position.

With the switch and wires hanging below the dash, transfer the wires and spring cover to the new switch. Use bulb grease on the connectors.

Installation is reverse of removal. Check to see that the slot in the new switch is aligned with the corresponding tab on the lock cylinder. The slot in the switch can be moved using a small flat blade screwdriver. The lock cylinder tab slot on the new switch should be in the correct position out of the box but check to be sure. Carefully line the three teeth on the spring cover with three corresponding slots in the dash. Compress the spring, install the bezel, and finally reinsert the lock cylinder. Turn the key to the OFF position and the cylinder will lock in place. Reconnect the negative cable at the battery and test the switch for proper function.
When you have 90% of what you want, think twice about insisting on the other 10%! Thomas Sowell
cars2cool
Posts: 50
Joined: December 31, 2007, 11:04 pm
Location: Sioux City Iowa

removing ignition cylinder and switch

Post by cars2cool »

William - Do I need to remove the lock cylinder from the switch before removing the switch assembly from the dash? Reason I ask is I do not have the key for the ignition. And to drill the cylinder, how big of a bit do you recommend? Thanks in advance.
'31 Model A pickup, '55 F100 Yblock w/fordamatic, '56 F100 6cyl. 3 spd. BBW my first pickup bought when I was 13 in 1974, '77 Lincoln Town Car with 64,000 original miles For Sale
Daniel.Mustin
Posts: 1
Joined: February 10, 2008, 2:54 am

Post by Daniel.Mustin »

Yes you have to remove the lock cylinder and you have to have the key to do this or you have to drill it out. I just had to do this, not because I didn't have the key, but because I couldn't get the switch to go to the ACC. I just started with a 1/4 inch bit and drilled in about an inch and then kept increasing the size of the bit. At about a 1/2 inch, the cylinder broke free and twisted out. Becareful not to drill too far into the actual switch, unless you are replacing the whole thing. And as a heads up for everyone, I just bought the switch for 10.95 and the lock cylinder and 2 keys for 6.00 at Autozone.
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