Cummins conversion
-
Anthony
-
flareside64
- Posts: 327
- Joined: July 17, 2006, 2:19 pm
- Location: Lenox Twp, Michigan

I love the cummins conversion your doing. I think I'm going to do one next myself. I wish I was educated on the diesels before I built my FE for my 65. Otherwise I would be putting in a 12 valve. About a month ago Ibought a 98 24 valve 4x4. I love this truck. I plan on doing some more mods to it. I was trying to find a nice 12 valve truck but the 12 valve trucks are hard to find with a good body. So I think I'm going to put a 12 valve in the next 64 project. I have a bunch of friends that got into the cummins trucks. Now I got into it too. I think Im going to combine my love for slicks for my new found love for diesels.
Travis
Travis
Travis
1949 F-4 226/4 speed
1964 F100 223/3 speed
1965 F100 4x4 445/4 speed
1949 F-4 226/4 speed
1964 F100 223/3 speed
1965 F100 4x4 445/4 speed
Well I have been working on the truck for a couple days. I have some progress to report.
I had the Dodge drive shaft cut down to fit between the Getrag and NP205 divorced transfer case. Unfortunately there is not a conversion U joint that will go from the 1410 series of u joint on the dodge to whatever I have on the Ford NP205. That meant I had to get another slip joint. But that part is done.

Here is my $150 divorced NP205. I hope it is OK.

I got the aftercooler plumbed for air and water. I used the heater ports on the engine. Later I may set up a separate cooling system for the aftercooler but for now this will get me on the road. I used 2.5 inch exhaust tubing for the air side. If this works I will go down to the sheet metal shop and have them roll in a bead on the lip to keep the tube in place on the clamp.




I also got a little more work done on the gauge plumbing. I am not sure what I am going to do about the fuel lines. I made a spacer under the aftercooler for the grid heaters but now my fuel lines don't fit as well as they should.

I will be running a mechanical temp gauge in the stock location. I went to the local speed shop looking for the adapter for the gauge to head. He did not have one, but he would have been glad to sell me some nifty stainless looking covers for my rad hoses. :confused013: Then I went to a heavy duty truck parts house. There they even asked what size pipe thread I wanted, needless to say I will be going back there.

I am also getting my brake and clutch pedal all setup. The push rod for the hydraboost needed a little grinding so it would not interfere with the pedal. I took the pedal assembly out to repair all the broken weld nuts on the mounting flange.


That's all for now. I hopefully will be making more progress today.
I had the Dodge drive shaft cut down to fit between the Getrag and NP205 divorced transfer case. Unfortunately there is not a conversion U joint that will go from the 1410 series of u joint on the dodge to whatever I have on the Ford NP205. That meant I had to get another slip joint. But that part is done.

Here is my $150 divorced NP205. I hope it is OK.

I got the aftercooler plumbed for air and water. I used the heater ports on the engine. Later I may set up a separate cooling system for the aftercooler but for now this will get me on the road. I used 2.5 inch exhaust tubing for the air side. If this works I will go down to the sheet metal shop and have them roll in a bead on the lip to keep the tube in place on the clamp.




I also got a little more work done on the gauge plumbing. I am not sure what I am going to do about the fuel lines. I made a spacer under the aftercooler for the grid heaters but now my fuel lines don't fit as well as they should.

I will be running a mechanical temp gauge in the stock location. I went to the local speed shop looking for the adapter for the gauge to head. He did not have one, but he would have been glad to sell me some nifty stainless looking covers for my rad hoses. :confused013: Then I went to a heavy duty truck parts house. There they even asked what size pipe thread I wanted, needless to say I will be going back there.

I am also getting my brake and clutch pedal all setup. The push rod for the hydraboost needed a little grinding so it would not interfere with the pedal. I took the pedal assembly out to repair all the broken weld nuts on the mounting flange.


That's all for now. I hopefully will be making more progress today.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
-
Cumminsturbo22
- Posts: 31
- Joined: July 8, 2009, 8:20 pm
I am new to the board and this is the first I have seen of this thread. I must say I am very impressed with your engineering and fabricating ablilty. I now know who to ask of I ever decide to put a Cummins in a Slick. On secone thought I already have a Cummins in my Slick but I didn't do it. Can't wait to see more of you progress.
Michelle
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
I am a heavy equipment mechanic by trade so some of my work is not the prettiest. There are some guys who are doing this that make it look better than stock when it's all done.
I do plan on modding this. I have to get it done first.
I do plan on modding this. I have to get it done first.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
-
Cumminsturbo22
- Posts: 31
- Joined: July 8, 2009, 8:20 pm
- Johnny Canuck
- Posts: 8291
- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.

Dere's dese boyz just south of me in Kailspell
I figure if I wanted one done thats where I'd go
http://fordcummins.com/
I figure if I wanted one done thats where I'd go
http://fordcummins.com/
It's a race.. Will hell freeze over or will JC finish his truck first. Stay tuned..
Been working on the crew all week.
I got the radiator hooked up a while ago but have not put up any pics. I used a combination of bulk hose from the industrial hose shop, formed hoses from who knows what from NAPA, steel tubing, and exhaust elbows.


Once I got all the weld nuts repaired on the pedal assembly I put it back in. Then I was able ti install the clutch master and hydraboost and master cylinder. I am using a single pot master cylinder that would have come on the truck stock. There was a mounting hole for it stamped on the firewall and everything.

I am using a braided steel line over Teflon for the clutch master line. It is a motorcycle brake line. It has -3 JIC ends. I got a -3 JIC to 1/8 npt to go in the master cylinder. For the slave I got a universal clutch fitting adapter that went to -3 JIC.
When I went to it in it would not seat all the way. I first thought it was hanging up on the large portion (marked by the red arrow), I measured it and the adapter was a .005 over the stock piece. I filed it down but it would still not fit. Then I noticed that the adapter had a raised portion on the front portion. The stock piece was straight (marked by the black arrow). Once I ground it off it fit right in.


I got some of my gauges plumbed in. I am running all mechanical gauges except the water temp, I don't want to deal with the capillary tube. Here is boost, fuel pressure, and oil pressure.

I got the throttle cable all hooked up. I was going to use the stock Dodge piece but I had to take the bracket off when I put the aftercooler on. This is a Lokar cable I had for another project.
I also setup the manual shutoff. I took the plunger out of the shutoff solenoid on the pump. I ran the cable to the spot on the dash where the choke cable used to go.

I also got the fuel drained out of the tank and will try an make smoke today.
I got the radiator hooked up a while ago but have not put up any pics. I used a combination of bulk hose from the industrial hose shop, formed hoses from who knows what from NAPA, steel tubing, and exhaust elbows.


Once I got all the weld nuts repaired on the pedal assembly I put it back in. Then I was able ti install the clutch master and hydraboost and master cylinder. I am using a single pot master cylinder that would have come on the truck stock. There was a mounting hole for it stamped on the firewall and everything.

I am using a braided steel line over Teflon for the clutch master line. It is a motorcycle brake line. It has -3 JIC ends. I got a -3 JIC to 1/8 npt to go in the master cylinder. For the slave I got a universal clutch fitting adapter that went to -3 JIC.
When I went to it in it would not seat all the way. I first thought it was hanging up on the large portion (marked by the red arrow), I measured it and the adapter was a .005 over the stock piece. I filed it down but it would still not fit. Then I noticed that the adapter had a raised portion on the front portion. The stock piece was straight (marked by the black arrow). Once I ground it off it fit right in.


I got some of my gauges plumbed in. I am running all mechanical gauges except the water temp, I don't want to deal with the capillary tube. Here is boost, fuel pressure, and oil pressure.

I got the throttle cable all hooked up. I was going to use the stock Dodge piece but I had to take the bracket off when I put the aftercooler on. This is a Lokar cable I had for another project.
I also setup the manual shutoff. I took the plunger out of the shutoff solenoid on the pump. I ran the cable to the spot on the dash where the choke cable used to go.

I also got the fuel drained out of the tank and will try an make smoke today.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
-
Cumminsturbo22
- Posts: 31
- Joined: July 8, 2009, 8:20 pm
It did. I started in the Ford frame a few weeks ago. But for me summer is for fishing and camping and not for working on trucks, so progress is slow.
When I started it it did not have an intake or exhaust. The exhaust was coming straight out of the turbo and hitting the firewall. My eyes were watering and I could barley breath but I was so exited it didn't matter
I am in the middle of making a different front crossmember to tie the motor mounts together.
I have to run a couple new brake lines, I cut the old ones when I took the old front crossmember out.
The truck needs new wiring as well. It does not need as much as before since I went with mostly mechanical gauges but it will still take a while to do.
When I started it it did not have an intake or exhaust. The exhaust was coming straight out of the turbo and hitting the firewall. My eyes were watering and I could barley breath but I was so exited it didn't matter
I am in the middle of making a different front crossmember to tie the motor mounts together.
I have to run a couple new brake lines, I cut the old ones when I took the old front crossmember out.
The truck needs new wiring as well. It does not need as much as before since I went with mostly mechanical gauges but it will still take a while to do.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
Well I got it started in the Ford frame a few weeks ago. But I am still a long way from being done.
I had to do some brake line work and have needed to get a new flare tool. So I went all the way and got the Cadillac of flaring tools. It is hydraulic and can do all sorts of different flares. It is sweet.

I fabbed a new front crossmember. I built one already but I changed my motor mount design and it then would not work. I plug welded the mounting plates and when I take the motor out again I will finish weld them.


I picked up some exhaust peices. I got 4 inch. It is pretty big, I may take it back and go with something smaller. My down pipe is stock and is only 3 inches.

I had some battery boxes made. I am going to inset them into the inner fenders.


I had to change the wiring on the steering column before I put it back in. These are connectors that are used on Caterpillar equipment. I change harnesses all the time so figured why not use them instead of throwing them away.


Once I got the column back in I was able to redo the brake lines off the master cylinder. I used some coated brake line I got from NAPA, it bent very well, it looks good too.



Before I could put the inner fenders back on I figured I would take the turbo off and install the egt probe. I drilled the manifold to take the 1/8 pipe tap. It turned out pretty well. The probe tip ended up right in the middle of the opening.





I started to put the inner fenders back on so I could mount my batteries. Well I was in such a hurry to start my project that I didn't notice the PO had hacked half the inner fender on the drivers side. So I will try and find another one.

I am going to try and get some wiring done tomorrow.
I had to do some brake line work and have needed to get a new flare tool. So I went all the way and got the Cadillac of flaring tools. It is hydraulic and can do all sorts of different flares. It is sweet.

I fabbed a new front crossmember. I built one already but I changed my motor mount design and it then would not work. I plug welded the mounting plates and when I take the motor out again I will finish weld them.


I picked up some exhaust peices. I got 4 inch. It is pretty big, I may take it back and go with something smaller. My down pipe is stock and is only 3 inches.

I had some battery boxes made. I am going to inset them into the inner fenders.


I had to change the wiring on the steering column before I put it back in. These are connectors that are used on Caterpillar equipment. I change harnesses all the time so figured why not use them instead of throwing them away.


Once I got the column back in I was able to redo the brake lines off the master cylinder. I used some coated brake line I got from NAPA, it bent very well, it looks good too.



Before I could put the inner fenders back on I figured I would take the turbo off and install the egt probe. I drilled the manifold to take the 1/8 pipe tap. It turned out pretty well. The probe tip ended up right in the middle of the opening.





I started to put the inner fenders back on so I could mount my batteries. Well I was in such a hurry to start my project that I didn't notice the PO had hacked half the inner fender on the drivers side. So I will try and find another one.

I am going to try and get some wiring done tomorrow.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
-
Anthony
I made a little progress today. I made a cheesy cover for the holes where the stock harness came through the firewall. I mounted the bulkhead electrical connector, it has 40 pins, I doubt I will use them all.


Here are the fuse panels. The large one will be the main power and the small one will be hooked to a relay and will be my accessory on power. You can see the other end of the bulkhead fitting above the fuse panel.

I also found another inner fender from ICEMAN, I should have it this week.


Here are the fuse panels. The large one will be the main power and the small one will be hooked to a relay and will be my accessory on power. You can see the other end of the bulkhead fitting above the fuse panel.

I also found another inner fender from ICEMAN, I should have it this week.
1965 Ford F350 Crewcab, currently getting a Cummins 6bt conversion.
1964 F-100 SWB, 292,
IC front suspension
No-Limit Fatbar 4 link
full rewire complete
T-5 transmission
Front Tilt Hood
IC front suspension
No-Limit Fatbar 4 link
full rewire complete
T-5 transmission
Front Tilt Hood

