You are going to do this mod yourself and not buy the conversion parts? - You aware you are OBLIGATED to put it in to the Hints section right? Photographs, measurements, parts lists, etc are required also by the way.
Last edited by Greg D on September 5, 2009, 8:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
oops on the clutch disc. most conversion info is using s10 trans. chevy and ford T5s have different input shafts. guess thats why T5s have 200 tag numbers. im searching again.
Looking damn good Kenny. Nice job. Gonna use a S-10 tail shaft to move the shifter?
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.
LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
62galxe wrote:oops on the clutch disc. most conversion info is using s10 trans. chevy and ford T5s have different input shafts. guess thats why T5s have 200 tag numbers. im searching again.
looks like a 65 to 87 uses a 11" disc with 1 1/16 - 10 spline. now gotta find one and try it out.
Last edited by 62galxe on September 5, 2009, 10:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
Looks good keep us posted. I believe that a slug has to be welded on for the missing hole and the one that almost works needs to be drilled and retapped. I don't know for sure.
Greg D Posted: Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:11 pm Post subject:
You are going to do this mod yourself and buy the conversion parts? - You aware you are OBLIGATED to put it in to the Hints section right? Photographs, measurements, parts lists, etc are required also by the way.
1964 F-100 SWB, 292,
IC front suspension
No-Limit Fatbar 4 link
full rewire complete
T-5 transmission
Front Tilt Hood
[quote="jercasche"]Looks good keep us posted. I believe that a slug has to be welded on for the missing hole and the one that almost works needs to be drilled and retapped. I don't know for sure.
[quote]
Im gonna use a piece of round bar and grind out the bellhousing till it fits. then weld it in with a nickel rod. the hole that almost works will either need a shim or welded up and ground flat. its pretty close to the edge.
Looks good, I like that the retainer hole needs to be enlarged on the 3-speed bell, if you have the access to the machine equipment it's easier. good luck with the welding.
"Let the Devil have his Chevy, thank God Jesus loves His Fords." -Angry Johnny and the Killbillies 'Creepy Pete'
Ive found info supporting 2 ways to do this. one is machining the hole. the other is turning down the bearing support. I found a local machine shop that was willing to machine the bellhousing for $50. he used a cnc machine. according to him the hole is a loose fit to the retainer. he made it .003 oversized. now if i can find a clutch disc. I know what I want but parts houses now sell kits. There gonna see if they can special order a disc only. dont you just love the computerized parts sellers. they said they could find the part easier if i just gave them the application. OK i said I needed a clutch for a 63 truck that matched a 88 mustang trans. the look on there face was priceless. anyway this story is long enough.
Kenny
The mustang clutch is either 10 or 10 1/2 inches. I would assume this would require redrilling the flywheel. you would also need a different release bearing setup to match the pressure plate. the stock release bearing assembly is 1" taller than the mustang. or you can just order a kit and miss all this fun. Actually if you look at part # applications most of the fords used the same disc.
Kenny
what I cant figure out is why the site ( http://www.ford-y-block.com/Fws-dampers.htm ) shows a special pressure plate. I hope im not overlooking something. im using the original flywheel, pressure plate, and release bearing. the only changes are a 11" clutch disc with the correct center hub and a bushing in the release bearing.
Due to the difference in thickness of a truck and car clutch disc the pressure plate must be changed to a car pressure plate or the clutch will slip.
this is what confuses me. here is a list of what the disc fits. click on compatability tab.It is a truck disc but is used in most of the cars also. well im going for cheap and if it dont work then ill try something else.
I can understand where they are coming from saying not to use the 4 speed bell because you need to shim it up.
I had a conversation with Mummert last year about this.
See a T-5 from a 94-95 Mustang has a longer input shaft, allows you to use the car adaptor instead of modding the bell. I at the time didn't have a tranny yet and was confused about the mention of a 94-95 Mustang 4 cylinder tranny mentioned on his site (you could only get 3.8s & 5.0s in 94-95). The 04-05 V6 trannys are probably strong enough and the 94-95 units even the 5.0 piece are easier to find so I was naturally pretty interested.
He told me this;
"Both work fine but if you are better off working from the engine back rather than working from the tranny forward" What he was getting at is the less parts the better.
D Carr said he could machine the 4 speed bell bushings if we get him the measurements too.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
got the bushing made for the release bearing sleeve. welded in the piece for the front bolt. it aint pretty but it will work. all i have for stick welding is a old lincoln ac crackerbox.
For my clitch I found a car application 11 inch disk with the 10 spline shaft and used my stock pressure plate fork and throwout bearing... but the 4-speed trans (t98A) trucks came with the 11" clutch etc. So I asssume if you found a full kit for a 61-64 with a 4-speed you'd be okay.
(I did not use the car pressure plate as the finngers on the relese were too tight to clear the input shaft if I remember.)
"Let the Devil have his Chevy, thank God Jesus loves His Fords." -Angry Johnny and the Killbillies 'Creepy Pete'