Battery disconnect

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 20, 2010, 12:31 am

I am going to buy two battery disconnects just as soon as I can for both my trucks. I have been thinking about this for ages, but have been procrastinating.

I have mentioned before I take a weekend autobody class on at the local community college. A classmate has been working on a 57 T-bird for several years, and is close to finishing up the bodywork. A guy nearby with a Miata was using one of those plastic "welders" to fix a bumper cover. Me and the T-bird guy are talking to the instructor when the Miata guy says there is smoke coming out from under the T-bird. He got the hood up and smoke was streaming out of the generator. He disconnected the battery cables, which stopped the smoke. I don't know much about generators, but apparently it was getting power. The keys were out of ignition so it wasn't anything to do with that I'd think. Something failed or shorted inside the gen I guess, and there could have been some real problems if someone hadn't noticed it.

We talked about it later, everyone noticed the smell, but all figured it was the bumper repair, not a generator burning up we where smelling.

Later the instructor helped this guy bench test the generator, it appears to be working okay. I imagine he get it rebuilt though. And he is going to disconnect the battery when he gets home to try and avoid any other issues. If this had happened a few hours later, when this guy went home and put his car up for the night, could have been a really bad story.

Not sure how many run generators here. Mine are alternator equipped, but still I think it is a good idea to have a battery diconnect regardless.

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » February 20, 2010, 6:33 am

Sounds to me that the points stuck closed in the Regulator.

Fred

Ford blue blood · Post by **Ford blue blood** » February 20, 2010, 10:29 am

fmartin_gila wrote:Sounds to me that the points stuck closed in the Regulator.

Fred

YUP

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » February 21, 2010, 8:29 am

I think I will plan on going with a battery disconnect too. There's at least a couple of good reasons to do it. Safety and security.

BobbyFord · Post by **BobbyFord** » February 21, 2010, 10:24 am

Like this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Perko-Ma ... 439d762cfb

bluebolt · Post by **bluebolt** » February 21, 2010, 7:43 pm

BobbyFord wrote:Like this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Perko-Ma ... 439d762cfb

That's a little light on the surge rating, starters can pull more amps than that. Keep an eye on the ratings, some of the cheap ones only have a 20 amp continous rating but look no different than the ones with 200 amp ratings. I prefer a continous rating at least as big as the alternator and surge rating as big as the battery's CCA (cold crank amps). An underated disconnect switch can be a fire hazard in itself. If it's exposed to the elements a waterproof switch is a good idea.

Search Summit racing for battery disconnect switches, plenty there.

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » February 22, 2010, 6:39 am

You can eliminate the Safety & Security problems by installing an internaly-regulated alternator and replacing the outside opening latch with a cable controlled latch mounted inside the cab. I have incorperated both in mine and as long as I lock the door, it is secured. Sad to say, but both items are of GM manufacture.

Fred

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 22, 2010, 2:12 pm

Fred, what vehicle did you get the remote hood latch from?

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » February 23, 2010, 8:00 am

Mid to late 70s GMC 1/2 ton is where I got the latch. Had to make a mount to put the latch down in the pocket, but it fit real well down in there and the double locking part matches the loop that is mounted on our hoods. I ran the actuating cable around the left side and through the firewall just as it was on the GMC. I did have to mount the pull handle under the dash beside the E Brake handle instead of the side kick panel as it was on the GMC, as the vent door opening interfered with the cable if mounted on the kick panel.

Fred

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 23, 2010, 11:59 am

Thanks Fred. I will have to keep an eye out. GM had the same bodystyle up until like 87 I think, probably be easier to get off a 80's truck if they are same/similar. Don't have any pics of it do you?

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » February 24, 2010, 7:44 am

No, I don't have any pics. I am right next door to computer illiterate and wouldn't know how to put them on here if I did have any. Pretty straightforward though, once you get the latch and look at it, you can see what you need to do. My biggest problem, still not totally solved, is how to incorporate a pop-up feature so when you pull the handle inside the cab, the hood will jump up to to be held by the safety catch. I have it now so sometimes it will "jump up" and sometimes not. Still needs some fine tuning.

Fred

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » February 24, 2010, 8:23 am

Here is an option for straight axle trucks.. I do not know if it would work on twin-I trucks.. I installed my disconnect in the original battery tie-down hole and redrilled for the battery tie down..

Battery disconnect

Battery disconnect

Rating