Got my 352

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » February 28, 2010, 9:05 pm

I just got back from getting my 352. It is supposed to be a 1967 that had about 80,000 miles. The guy put in new rings, bearings, a RV cam (280/480) and ran another 30,000 miles. It is complete, less carb, distributer and pulleys.

I had my truck running today and went about 100 yards up the road and back. My engine smokes and the freeze plugs have rusted out. I guess this happens when they set for 12 to 15 years.

Can't wait to get greasy!

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/1610917780.html

HOOK&GO · Post by **HOOK&GO** » March 1, 2010, 10:55 am

Looks like a good deal, I have been keeping an eye out for one of those myself. I have some 5.0 parts to trade dang it

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 1, 2010, 6:27 pm

Unusauals for a 352 to have a four barrel intake. I would check the storke before I sold it. It could be a 390. Even though the owner said it was a 352. I would take out a plug and check the stroke just for kicks and grins. It would make the motor more valuable at least it would to me.

Rich

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 1, 2010, 8:41 pm

64 f100 wrote:Unusauals for a 352 to have a four barrel intake. I would check the storke before I sold it. It could be a 390. Even though the owner said it was a 352. I would take out a plug and check the stroke just for kicks and grins. It would make the motor more valuable at least it would to me.

Rich

In cars the 352 4V was actually very common, much more common than a 390. The Galaxie guys hate 'em! LOL Hawkrod

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 1, 2010, 9:50 pm

I just got it out of the back of the van and hanging in the garage. Is there a casting number in it to tell exactly what it is, or at least what it was when it left the factory with no modifications from previous owners?

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 1, 2010, 9:55 pm

Mellvis wrote:I just got it out of the back of the van and hanging in the garage. Is there a casting number in it to tell exactly what it is, or at least what it was when it left the factory with no modifications from previous owners?

Not likely but possibly. FE engines built after about 1964 can't normally be ID'ed by numbers. Ford used the same numbers on almost all engine sizes. Post wht you do find and we can try and Id the potential list. Hawkrod

Jonas · Post by **Jonas** » March 2, 2010, 10:40 am

Is there not someway he can tell by looking at the back of the crank? Half moon cut out or something? Seems like I read something about that.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 2, 2010, 12:48 pm

I don't know about Fords, but I know that applies to some Chevrolet motors (small blocks). The 283 and I think 327 has a round flange with a half moon (I think) cut into it.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 2, 2010, 4:44 pm

Well, I was looking at the engine and found these numbers:

C6M?-A on the right side above the oil pan mounting surface. I can't read one of the characters.

6J21 I assume the build date? October 21st, 1966?

37 352 block mold #37 and 352 that's on all FE's

37 DIF block mold #37 "Dearborn Iron Foundry"

37 DIF is also on the rear near the metal plug behind the cam.

The only numbers I see on the heads:

C7AE-A i THINK THIS IS 1967, January 1st, Engine - (don't know the "A")

Does this tell what I have, or can you only find out by measuring? Did I get any of these right?

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 2, 2010, 5:54 pm

Simplest way to check is to pull the pan and get crank numbers and or rod numbers. C6 on the block is 66 and on the heads are 67 of course. My gues is that it could very well be a 390, but not a sure thing. Check stroke ro pull the pan is all I can tell you.
Yblocks you can tell by the half moon on the crank and other ID marks.

Rich

Hawkrod · Post by **Hawkrod** » March 2, 2010, 5:56 pm

Mellvis wrote:Well, I was looking at the engine and found these numbers:

C6M?-A on the right side above the oil pan mounting surface. I can't read one of the characters.

6J21 I assume the build date? October 21st, 1966?

37 352 block mold #37 and 352 that's on all FE's

37 DIF block mold #37 "Dearborn Iron Foundry"

37 DIF is also on the rear near the metal plug behind the cam.

The only numbers I see on the heads:

C7AE-A i THINK THIS IS 1967, January 1st, Engine - (don't know the "A")

Does this tell what I have, or can you only find out by measuring? Did I get any of these right?

Okay, what you have a is a 67 model year engine. The C6ME-A is the casting number of the block and it can be almost any size including 352, 390, 410 or 428. It could also be a 330 or 391 but since it is an FE we know it is not. The date code is a few months into production for the 67 model year as you noted. The heads are C7AE-A which is the standard head used on almost all 67 352, 390, 410 or 428. The rest you got all correct. Now you need to measure the bore to tell what the actual dimension is. The stroke will also need to be measured although some cranks do have notches or semi circles on the back that can help ID them assuming they are original to the assemblly. Hawkrod

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » March 2, 2010, 6:37 pm

I think the easiest way to determine engine size is to check the stroke. Remove a spark plug and put something like a straw into the hole. Then measure how much it moves from low to high. I believe about 3.5" is a 352, about 3.75" is a 390. I think those numbers will hold true if the block is 67 vintage.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 4, 2010, 11:22 am

Personally, I would jsut pop the panoff and get crank numbers and rod numbers. This way, you can also look into the bottom of the pan and see what is there. You can tell more about the engine from what is in the pan and by checking bearings.

Rich

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 4, 2010, 2:22 pm

Well, I've been playing in the garage. I've got the old engine about ready to pull. I have to get a helper to help get the hood off. I was surprised that the exhaust studs didn't break! It was a pain getting them out though. My next question is should I drop the tranny, or pull it attached to the engine?

Jonas · Post by **Jonas** » March 4, 2010, 6:23 pm

I would pull the tranny with the engine.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » March 5, 2010, 12:41 am

only time I've ever stuck tranny with engine was with the doghouse off, on my cousin's 39 C#@^Y.... it seems too awkward to do it on, and not worth the hassle to pull it all off.

pulling tranny separate, or leaving in is a (insignificant) bit of work, but I prefer it.... Especially if you have a tranny attachment for the floor jack.

If you DO pull them out together, make SURE that your hoist hook and swivel is up to snuff.... It would really suck to drop it.... It's gonna be extra heavy

and dont get all "creative".... I once saw a pic of somebody parking the car on a downslope in a parking lot, with the front wheels in a ditch of sorts, and approaching it on a steep opposite slope with the engine and tranny to try to weezle it in better....

Looked like a great way to lose control and smash the whole mess into the car...

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » March 6, 2010, 9:02 am

Speaking of exhaust manifolds. I would run taps thru those while the engine is out. Then runs some bolts in with antisieze while it is convenient to coat the threads. Also check for any stripped threads before installing the engine.

Rich

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 7, 2010, 1:25 pm

Got the engine out and all the parts ready to swap to the "new" engine....except for the exhaust manifolds. WOW is this a pain! I may get on ebay and just buy two more.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » March 7, 2010, 7:24 pm

new problem.......I had to take the balancer off of the front of the replcement engine. I put the balancer from the old engine, which is more or less a pulley, on the replacement engine. The problem is I can't find a timing mark. I put it together and put #1 cylinder at the top with both valves closed. I should be very near TDC, right?