best oil?

[Casey 65]

I'm coming to the end of the break in period on my engine and wondering what the best oil would be for the engine. Synthietic? natural? best brand? best oil for Ford engines? waddaya think?

[36truck]

Natural for a few changes first then either will work. Kendall, Valvoline are both good.

[Uncle Skip]

My personal favorite is Shell Rotella T with a half bottle of break in additive.
U@ss

[DV65CustomCab]

If ever there was a topic with endless answers, this would be it. Everyone has their favorite, and opinions will be many with no verifiable proof one is better than the other.

Provided the oil is changed with proper frequency, I'm of the opinion it doesn't matter one bit what you use!

IMO, the only advantage to synthetics is longer change intervals. Unless it's some extreme duty application, synth doesn't really offer a vast superiority over dino oil in anything but the price. I also found for a fact that the theory of synth leaking where dino will not is true, even on a fresh engine.

[rwhistles]

ok just my 2 cents worth. I read a tech article about dino versus synth.the idea is that the molacules of dino are irregular in shape haveing sharp points and ridges much like a grain of sand. while synth being an engeneered oil has rounded molacules with no sharp points or edges thereby reduceing wear.but in the real world of infrequent oil changes how much extra life will that give an engine? synth sounds good in theory and if you changed oil at regular intervals you could possibly see an increase in engine life. but the extra cost of synth over the life of that engine might equal the cost of a rebuild. also don't you have to use a different oil filter with synth? I saw a remote filter advertized with ams-oil its supposed to filter out particles down to just a few microns. dont remember what the number was. dont know if you have to use it with or without the original filter. just use a good oil and change at regular intervals and you will be good to go.

[The Big M]

IMO, the only advantage to synthetics is longer change intervals. Unless it's some extreme duty application, synth doesn't really offer a vast superiority over dino oil in anything but the price.

The advantage of synthetic oil is that its viscosity is stable over a wider range of temperatures than conventional oil. That means it's less prone to high-temperature breakdown and will flow better at cold temperatures. So I tend to agree that extreme duty is where it shines.

To me, the cold temperature performance is the most significant difference. That's why I run my own synthetic blend in my daily driver for the winter. The rest of the time I run conventional, mainly due to price. The additive packages in today's conventional oil are pretty advanced.

while synth being an engeneered oil has rounded molacules with no sharp points or edges thereby reduceing wear.

Synthetic is still oil, but it starts from a higher quality of base stock. It's just more refined, with fewer contaminants that can form sludge. As a result it's less reliant on additives for performance.

I saw a remote filter advertized with ams-oil its supposed to filter out particles down to just a few microns. dont remember what the number was. dont know if you have to use it with or without the original filter.

You don't need a special filter to run synth. The remote filter is a secondary bypass that you use in conjunction with the main filter. That way you still get full oil flow while a portion gets bypassed to filter out the smaller particles.

[banjopicker66]

Casey, I would highly recommend you start an oil analysis program on your new engine, especially since it is new. Oil analysis can tell you a lot about your engine's health, and about how well the oil is performing.
For example, the wear elements can include Fe, Mg, Bo, S, and many more. Too much of these can render otherwise good oil into a engine eater.
It will also tell you of contaminants such as fuel, antifreeze, water and more.
Analysis can also tell you how well your oil is performing. For example, in my F-250 diesel, I was changing every 5K miles, but analysis has shown I can go at least 7500. I am hoping to afford a secondary oil filtration system for it, which could push oil changes to 25K miles, maybe more.
I recommend Blackstone labs: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
They are the only ones that send you free test kits, at least as far as I know.

[Casey 65]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input.

[dwbr]

you use shell rotella t in your gas engine ? thats diesel oil,

in all my gas powered vehicles i use valvoline, oil pressure seems to stay more stable after warm up period and never had any wear issues

My personal favorite is Shell Rotella T with a half bottle of break in additive.
U@ss

________
BLOWJOB ORGY

[Uncle Skip]

Yes, and I've never lost a camshaft during breakin or after 100,000 miles.
Straight 30 weight.
The problem today is that the EPA has mandated the removal of the zinc in all the good brands of motor oi.
The key is that the Rotella, being a "truck" oil still has traces which I fortify with small amounts of the break in additive at every oil change.
Besides, Slicks are trucks, right? ......
U@ss

[Casey 65]

I've been told that our flat tappet engines need the zink and phosphorus. The over the counter oils have trace or no zink and phosphorus in them. A additive usch as ZDDP should be used to protect a flat tappet engine.

[Phil]

I've been told that our flat tappet engines need the zink and phosphorus. The over the counter oils have trace or no zink and phosphorus in them. A additive usch as ZDDP should be used to protect a flat tappet engine.

This is why I use VR1 Valvoline Race 20W 50 in all my cars I care about

[ABA]

Since we're on the subject of oil, I remember back in the '70's the recommended oil change interval was every 6000 miles.....now it's every 3000 miles.
Did the oil change or is this a scam to sell more oil?

I use Valvoline Max Life 10w40.

[oldtrucks]

My 2 cents worth.

I use Mobile One 20 W 50 in my work truck and Goldwing at the moment and will change to the same in the 77 soon. Haven't made a decision about the 62 yet.

My reasons for this oil are my own experince over many years. I have never had an oil related failure while using Mobile One. Also Mobile One is widely available and cost wise it it compares to standard oils.

With new engines I prefer to have at least 5000 miles on them before changing to Mobile One. Thats for a flat tappet engine. Roller cammed engines are a different story and "normal cam break in" for these engines is different but I would still wait about 5000 miles before changing.

All of the above is based on personel experence and is not a recomendation for any particular brand of synthetic oil over another nor is it aimed at persuading anyone to choose synthetics over standard oils.

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

in our past dealings,, Shell Rotella way to go,, back in the 80's always had problems with our Macks, engine failures or excessive use of oil so when I built my 375 V-8 Mack before we cranked her up made several calls about oils which we where using other brands and found they wanted us to use Shell Rotella more money than others so I tried it and got more mileage out of the motor,, now few years later tried all these synth.. oils especially on the 7.3's and first 6.0 and could not figure out for awhile WHY It would use a gallon of oil between changes so one trip and in just one trip with Shell Rotella no more oil useage and in fact now we have Ford Service our trucks and I never check the oil in my 6.0 between changes and thats using the oil Ford wants to be used with about 7000-8000 between oil,, on my F-150 same deal never check the oil as far as other trucks one oil only and thats Motorcraft and like filters Motorcraft all the way,, itls like the old timnes say want to use a Deco Part on a Ford your asking for a major screwup, and these filtration systems only way to make money and the testing of oils as well just a waste,,,, many years ago use to do our 425 CATS and was just a waste of money in the end cause since if they did find something in the oil by the time you catch it , its over

Of course we can go on and on about oils and will never end

[oldtrucks]

In the end we all have to make our own choices based on our research and experense. We have to ask questions, compare notes and make our decisions accordingly.

I don't believe there are any absolute answers. That is the ultimate value of this and other forums, the sharing of knowledge and experences.

[brent460]

Royal Purple and Im not just sayin that because Im from Texas. Or Mobile 1 full synthetic. Personal use with both more so with Mobile 1 because I use it in both of my daily drivers with great results so far.

[slick4x4]

just a farmer saying , good for the tractor = good for the truck

I run Case IHC motor oil in ALL my gas engines , i have gas powered combines that have over 7000 hours .....and those 7000 hours are pulling the nuts most of the time. 7000 @ 50MPH = 350,000 miles

and they dont even smoke / they use a quart of oil about every 24 hours
its good oil.... about 16-18 dollars a gallon.... i buy it in 55 gallon drums

[cdherman]

I've been told that our flat tappet engines need the zink and phosphorus. The over the counter oils have trace or no zink and phosphorus in them. A additive usch as ZDDP should be used to protect a flat tappet engine.

This is why I use VR1 Valvoline Race 20W 50 in all my cars I care about

Bingo!

ZDDP was the greatest invention made to lube an engine. Too bad it eats catalytic convertors (only if the engine is buring oil). For a flat tappet engine, ZDDP (zinc), is what you need. Some very GOOD modern oils have too little ZDDP in them for an old engine.

For a while, you could get Zn in diesel oils, which made them good for our old engines, but increasingly, even the DEO stuff is not made for BREAK IN in a flat tappet engine.

You need an additive. Get whatever has lots of ZDDP and pour in a little extra.