Chroming

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » October 17, 2009, 6:24 pm

As you know I am a plumber and I work with PVC solvent cement and primer fluid daily, but yesterday I got my first case of chroming and I can tell you it wont happen again!, I was rattle can painting my upper arms with Rust-oleum`s Titanium silver ( lovely finish!), outside without a mask when I started to feel like I just had my 18Th beer, well I gotta tell you that buggered the rest of the day!, I headed into the garage to get away from the fumes, forgetting the other freshly painted parts with the fumes still coming off them were in there. Have you ever had bench spins, I did!. Having to do a second coat I dug out my twin cartridge mask, which I now remember is missing the bottom clip that goes around the back of your neck, Yep! got another hit of fumes in from the sides of the mask, that was around 10am and still felt bad at 6pm. The funny thing is that as soon as I started to drink some beers it seemed to go away! but this morning as I write this I still have a bit of a hang-over in the head

.
So guys be careful out there and wear your masks! even if you look like a Bandicoot!

36truck · Post by **36truck** » October 17, 2009, 6:34 pm

That's a must with todays paint it's nasty stuff.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » October 27, 2009, 11:18 pm

Oh no you must be mistaken, this has all been regulated by the govment, to the tune of about quadruple the cost of painting something. You know they are very strick

t about what they allow you to paint with, surely it wouldn't be just as or maybe a tad worse than the old paint.

Rich

Post by **Greg D** » October 28, 2009, 3:44 pm

When I was running Sioux City a couple weeks ago I was listening to a Sioux Falls radio station (they had Glenn Beck). There was a body shop commercial that was saturating the breaks talking about they had "Gone Green". I did consider for awhile using Auto Air Colors paint on my Uni, it's water based. I was impressed with a review on it Street Rodder is why. No Flat's but we'll see. Definitely has some advantages, especially if you are doing it yourself.

http://www.autoaircolors.com/index.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_ ... index.html

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/040 ... index.html

Max · Post by **Max** » October 28, 2009, 4:41 pm

Auto Air Colors still have to be Cleared (clear coated) though and most professional shops still use a good urethane clear for that but you're only looking at maybe half the issue of exposure to iso-cyanates and the like (although you still need a good respirator for the water-based paints as well).

Also, don't forget that if you do use the professional-grade paints, a respirator isn't enough. The solvents will get into your system through the pores in your skin as well as your eyes. That is why you see a lot of painters using full body suits, goggles and a supplied air breathing system.

Just doesn't pay to mess around with this stuff. There is no rewind button on exposure.

Post by **Greg D** » October 28, 2009, 5:34 pm

You know, with all the stuff I have likely absorbed over decades of working on cars, working in the printing industry (with all sorts of chemicals that have since been outlawed). I figure one of these days I will light a cigarette and just go FOOOOM and blow up, lol. I might be more toxic than the paint, my ex wives would agree with that, LOL!

Seriously, a guy could always paint with the Auto Air at home and run it through a shop for the clear coat - save you some money for sure.

jwcnj45 · Post by **jwcnj45** » October 28, 2009, 7:33 pm

Not sure about the Auto Air waterbase paints, but most waterbase paints must be topcoated within a certain time or you face the possibility of the clear coat peeling. I use the new waterbase base coats daily in the shop I work at and am very familiar with the Sikkens line of paints, so if any of you are considering using waterbase I might be able to answer some of your questions. Oh another thing with waterbase, you need good air movement over the surface for it to dry or it stays wet a long time making it very vonerible to dust

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » October 28, 2009, 9:18 pm

I hope your feeling better after a few days away from the fumes. I have been there myself. It is a wierd feeling.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » November 10, 2009, 6:21 pm

64 f100 wrote:Oh no you must be mistaken, this has all been regulated by the govment, to the tune of about quadruple the cost of painting something. You know they are very strick t about what they allow you to paint with, surely it wouldn't be just as or maybe a tad worse than the old paint.

Rich

dwbr · Post by **dwbr** » March 23, 2010, 12:42 pm

dont forget about even the prep work before you paint, when i was younger i helped a buddy of mine out in his body repair shop, mostly just d/a and taping the car after he had done the body work , i always wore the little dust mask while running the d/a, one week i had a bit of a cold so i had some sinus issues, after i had sanded down a black truck i went to blow my nose, everything came out black, made me think of all the cars i had sanded down and not noticed what my lungs were getting, not to mention the prep wipe, that stuff had a potent smell,
________
clear trichomes

winr · Post by **winr** » March 30, 2010, 11:04 pm

Bandicoot wallpaper !!!

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CAwQ9QEwAw

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » March 31, 2010, 1:38 am

Rickybobmichael !, do you have bandicoots over there too?

winr · Post by **winr** » March 31, 2010, 3:00 am

Hey Alan.

I've never seen one..but I hear they only have 2 teets in their pouch's over here.

I haven't forgotten about your 8-track player..I am ordering belts with extra's.
The people who deal in 8-track parts are far and few between and subject to coming and going.

I also have a Ford 8-track with AM/FM that I believe came factory in the truck I pulled it from, I am looking for a diagram so I dont let the smoke out of it if I hook it up wrong.

Regards.

Ricky.