Rebuild cost

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 13, 2010, 8:50 am

First off sorry for posting this cause I know it was talked about before and cant find it. Im doing a rebuild but have to send it off to get it done. I dont even own a cherry picker so everything must be done out of house. Ive done as muh as I can without the big tools but i have to stop here.

Anyway how much would you expect with a rebuild with the labor of taking out and putting the engine back in?

I feel as if i should do the tranny while its out as well but the tranny seems good so far. Other than being completely oily and dirty...

Anyway whats yalls thought on this? I travel with work and dont want to buy all of these big tools just to let it sit and me having to move it every couple of years. I hate moving but my job requires it and I need a job.

Michelle · Post by **Michelle** » April 13, 2010, 9:04 am

If you pay someone else to do the work, you will not only be paying labor but also a mark up on any parts they buy. You will end up with a truck that you have more money in than it is worth. With that said, what it all boils down to is your pleasure. If it is worth it to you then go for it. I have seen this before where someone wanted a truck or a car and didn't have to time to do it them selves and hired it done. They got their money out of it in the enjoyment they had driving and showing the car. Example, I had a friend in Colorado when I lived there that wanted a 56 big window F100. He had a good job and didn't have the time to build it himself. He hired it done and when he was finished he had over 80,000 dollars in it. The truck was fantastic looking and won awards whereever he took it. The more you looked at the truck the more detail you could see in it. The truck gave him endless pleasure. When he sold it he took a beating but no one can deny that he got his moneys worth while he owned it. A decision like this is strictly a call that you and you alone will have to make, only you know if it is worth it to you.

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 13, 2010, 9:10 am

ohhh no no no no.....this is a simple rebuild and nothing more...he also told me to buy the parts myself and would allow me to be a part of the rebuilding. In my mind Im also paying for the experience of doing the rebuild with someone who knows. Like I said I cant have parts, engines, tools just sitting around. I will be here in MS for maybe 1.5 years or so and then off to somewhere else. So in this case I need it done by someone else but would love the experience as well. This truck is not a show truck or anything like that. To me Ill spend a couple of grand for a engine rebuild if its done right...i rather be driving that letting it sit ina grage casue of a grand or soemthing. Ive done most of the work myself witht he exception of c nothcing, again big tools, but i think the whole pleasure factor is what it boild down to.....80 grand???? wow..no way hahahha thanks for the reply Michelle

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » April 13, 2010, 11:26 am

2K should get the job done with extras, with what you are describing. I would ask for a labor quote though. Sometimes it's 700$ and sometimes with your help it could be 1,000$. You sometimes have to pay for knowledge by goinng to school. It sounds as if you have come up with a freindly guy and it may work out to less than 700$ for labor. Do as much as you can. Just a little thought on cleaning. Pay the extra to have it cleaned, be sure to take all plugs out of the block galley and all. After it has been cleaned then clean it yourself. Now days they use caustic soda instead of the good caustic acid. It doesn't do as good a job. You need wire brushed to run thru alll passages and inspect every thingas well as you can.

Rich

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 13, 2010, 11:40 am

yeah Im thinking 2000 and labor is at where you described. Im excited about him letting me be there for it so Im really ok with it. With the engine being redone its basically a new truck with everything ive done to it already. I agree with the cleaning and will do. I think Ill deliever it this week and then start on it saturday full blwon. I wont purchase anything until its all torn down and we know whats going on. Im also going to clena the engine bay and make it real nice. That road oil and crap is aggrevating. Im also thinking of gold as the color for the block and manifold. May not get some high fives on that but i think it would be cool. I will take some pics of the progress....

oldtrucks · Post by **oldtrucks** » April 13, 2010, 10:02 pm

Whitey

When I take on a project I keep the owners very involved, in fact I insist on it or I won't do the job. Another thing I do is I won't mark up the parts. I know I will catch some flack for that but parts are expencive enough as it is and the markup is all over the place. I really don't do restorations for a living just to add a little income and the satisfaction of the before and after. To me not much can replace the look on a customer's face when they see the finished product. Besides I enjoy doing the work, it keeps me busy and active.

don luster · Post by **don luster** » April 14, 2010, 8:38 am

You can purchase a complete kit with the crank, rings, bearings etc and it will save you a lot of money. The block and parts will need to be hot tanked for cleaning. If you dont have the skill or tools to do the work yourself then look into a votec class at highschool to do the work for a small fee. Or a jr collage votec class. we did hundreds of engine this way when I taught at a JC. My machine shop did all the machine work including a new rv cam and lifters etc for less than 1500$ Check into some of the local are nearby car clubs for memb ers that will help you out with tools and labor at a cheaper rate.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » April 14, 2010, 9:48 am

You can rent the big stuff. Don't be afraid of an engine. It's just nuts and bolts holding things together. I'm sure you've dealt with that same thing in the past.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » April 14, 2010, 9:52 am

Just one more time, I will say, it's usually cheaper to buy a good used engine than build one. You can buy 2 or 3 engines for the amount of one rebuild.

Rich

don luster · Post by **don luster** » April 14, 2010, 10:38 am

I would agree with used engines BUT there is the problems of 1 Will they make it good if something is not ok. How much time will they give you to find out inside the engine what you bought. there are several test that will help to determine if its good. etc I have been lied to a few times about gooooood engines. I have found out the hard way a few times aft4er doing a lot of checks. Just a few thoughts

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 14, 2010, 11:52 am

I agree with what everyone is saying and classes are in the future and I read about it all the time. I actually ahve a rebuild book that I read for fun...yeah for fun. Wife looks at me weird when I do that. However, I do work alot and work in various places for a shirt time so thats where its a little harder and to be honest I want to drive it more than work on it. I would love to get a seperate engine and rebuild it myslef and for it to be a little project for me but I want the engine in there to be rebuilt. Not sure if all the numbers are true but I think I have a really cool S code 390 but awaiting the tear down to make sure. Another thing is if I have a couple of engines I need a place to store and thats more crap to move in a year or two. Im going to be invloved with this rebuild so I think Im in a win win situation. I havent bought anything yet until after we get it out and torn down. The shop guy is a really nice guy and thought it was cool that I wanted to be there. Im looking forward to knowing more. I even thought of doing aluminum intake and such but man I just love the fact thats its an old iron engine in an old truck....just looks too cool to mess around with it. Im a cruiser and i dont need track slips or anytihng.....as my pops said. Girls cant see you if youre going too fast...hahahha

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » April 14, 2010, 2:20 pm

DO NOT FORGET
On any rebuild don't forget to put in a quart of engine additive/ break in for the first three oil changes. New oil does not have the metallic components for old motors (zinc specifically).
After that, I use about a half a quart of same for every other oil change.
If you don't you're going to wipe out a perfectly good cam and set of lifters.
I guarantee it.
U@ss

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 14, 2010, 2:38 pm

thanks....thats the info i need to know. I have some time so any and all info is good info....

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » April 14, 2010, 3:28 pm

I think the break in lube is excellent insurance for the first start of the engine. There are oils available for older engines, even synthetics. Most of your single viscosity and dual viscosity oils 40w and heavier (10w40, 20w50, etc) have the adequate protection for older engines. If the bottle says for use in gasoline engines, you don't want it with a flat tappet engine. When in doubt, look at the MSDS of the oil you are considering.

For what it's worth, I used valvoline 20w50 for about 11000 miles in my previous Y. I tore it down because a wrist pin clip broke. The cam looked great and is in use now. I've been running valvoline VR1 20w50 for the past 5000 miles or so with no signs of imminent failure. No additives were/are used.

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 14, 2010, 4:02 pm

Thats the oil I used as well for the past few years with this engine. 20W-50 valvoline. Its done well but as you said something broke or failed which is causing this issue and although it didnt run bad i know it wasnt at full potential. This was bound to happen one day so why not do it now. I dig the color of your truck as well.

clevor347 · Post by **clevor347** » April 15, 2010, 5:52 pm

I'd be willing to help ya with it, I've got an a-frame and a chain fall.. And plenty of tools.. Lol.

"Whitey Ford" · Post by **"Whitey Ford"** » April 16, 2010, 7:34 am

dammit....ive already sent it off clevor but i appreciate it. hell anytime you have a project ill grab some beer (then ask the wife) and then maybe help ya out.

clevor347 · Post by **clevor347** » April 17, 2010, 7:05 pm

I'm putting the 240 back in Logan next weekend hopefully.. (1970 1/2 ton f100 swb). I'll be doing bodywork after that on days after work.. We'll get together sometime.

Mellvis · Post by **Mellvis** » April 17, 2010, 8:52 pm

Just some food for thought here, I just put a rebuilt 352 in my 65 a couple of weeks ago. I paid $150 for the engine,complete, except for carb, exhaust manifolds, and distributor. The swap went so smooth that I didn't even have to play with the timing after instillation to get it fires up! It cranked about three times and ran. Now I just have to fix the clutch that I put in backward.... Just another person who is happy with his used engine!

If you are doing the rebuild I hope the best for you and hope the guy treats you fair on the price. It sounds like you've done your homework so I don't think you have much to worry about!