Disc Brakes

The place to talk Slicks. All we ask is that discussion has something to do with slicks...

Moderators: Kid, Casey 65

Post Reply
FarmTrk
Posts: 55
Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:17 pm
Location: Seattle, WA

Disc Brakes

Post by FarmTrk »

Hey guys I am in the final stages of doing a disc brake upgrade. Everything has been going fine until I tried to bleed the brakes. AS I usually do I started at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. However, I could not get an fliud to that wheel. I backtracked to the porpotioning valve and found nothing coming from the rear wheel line. After removing the line I can get fluid but after hooking it back up again still can't get. I have checked and blown out all the lines to no avail. I am kind of at wet end. I thought I would start over and plugged the front brake outlet at the master cylinder and I still have a hard pedal but no fluid to the back brakes. Anybody have this problem or have any suggestions.
ICEMAN6166
Posts: 11470
Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

pedal/ booster rod too long?
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
User avatar
Slick Fan
Posts: 4085
Joined: November 4, 2006, 5:09 pm
Location: UTAH...snow blows!

Post by Slick Fan »

ICEMAN6166 wrote:pedal/ booster rod too long?

Yeah, what Ice said. Did you have to push the pedal rod in, in order to slip the bolt through? Did you have to physically push the master cylinder onto the booster, to get the nuts on?
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...
Image


66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
ICEMAN6166
Posts: 11470
Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

i had that problem many years ago, took 3 mcs back to the store because i could not get them to work.just happened to be a mechanic in the store, we got to talking, he came and looked and put some washers between the mc and firewall and then it worked and he hired me to work for him.funny thing was, i could get fluid out with the lines off and he said that if the piston was pushed in too far ,fluid would come out as the piston passed by but not after a certain point in travel.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
FarmTrk
Posts: 55
Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:17 pm
Location: Seattle, WA

Post by FarmTrk »

Thanks for all the tips guys. Tried them all and still no luck. I guess the next step is to replace the propotioning valve and they are costly but, hey got to fix it.
norville
Posts: 194
Joined: October 1, 2006, 5:34 am
Location: North East Pa

Post by norville »

did you crank up the rear shoes. Till the wheels stop moving?

bob

After the shoes are tight , crack the valves open and pop the top on the master and let them gravity bleed.
MadMaxetc
Posts: 2600
Joined: July 10, 2006, 12:00 pm
Location: Wichita, KS
Contact:
United States of America

Post by MadMaxetc »

The Prop valve has no moving parts (so it realy can't go bad) so I would give it a good soak in some solvent, or even a bunch of brake fluid. Keep trying to blow it out too. I bet there is some gummy old stuff in there blocking things up.

I would get 1 or 2 from a scrap yard, they should be cheep, just in case you can't get it un pluged.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
My Build Thread
User avatar
DV65CustomCab
Posts: 1497
Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
United States of America

Post by DV65CustomCab »

Or if you decide to go new, just buy an adjustable one like Wilwood makes, they aren't that expensive. Pegasus racing parts sells them, among others.
Stop The Longbed Hate! :)
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
Post Reply