unexpected project

[debauchee]

So I was planning on getting into some body work this spring but plans have changed. Engine was running a bit rough and way hotter than normal the other day so I parked the truck and took the bus to work the rest of the week until I could take a look at the engine. Finally got a chance to look at it on Sunday and the whole top of the cylinder head is caked with white foamy oil and lots of water so I'm assuming the head gasket has gone and I'm leaking anti freeze into the engine.

So at this point, I know I need to at least get the head off and replace the gasket but I'm figuring while I'm in there, I might as well try to replace the bearings and clean things up a bit. I have a 262 and I've heard this is pretty easy to do with out pulling the whole engine. Can anyone confirm this? This will be my first time tearing into an engine so any advice/warnings would be appreciated.

Nate

[choptopdoc]

Dont be scared. They only go back togeather one way. Just make sure everything is torqed down to the right specs, get a book if you hafta.

[BarnieTrk]

So at this point, I know I need to at least get the head off and replace the gasket but I'm figuring while I'm in there, I might as well try to replace the bearings and clean things up a bit. Nate

Nate,
I wouldn't recommend replacing any bearings during this repair. The bearings are on the bottom of the engine - you'll be only working on the top of the engine. I'd suggest you simply do the head gasket replacement first, then see if the overheating & oil and coolant leakage has been repaired.

My reasoning is this - since you ran it "way hotter than normal" it is possible that there is more going on with your engine than just a head gasket blowout. If it's determined later that your block is cracked, then the new bearings were installed for nothing. Yes, the first place to look would be the head gasket, but it is also very possible that a crack developed in conjunction with or as a result of the over heating condition. So, what I am saying is - although you may only have a blown head gasket, there may be more things hurt in your engine.

So, go through the steps to remove your cylinder head. Clean up the block and cylinder head mating surfaces and inspect them for any visible cracks. Inspect your valves for any that may be burned, 'chipped' or simply not good. If there are no visible cracks and your valves look good, replace the head gasket and torque the head bolts as your manual dictates and re-attach the exhaust/intake manifold and remaining gear you removed.

Refill the coolant system (with 100% water for now) and change the milky motor oil & filter. Re-attach the exhaust system. You may want to opt for a new set of sparkplugs, since many times if coolant is introduced into the combustion chamber it can crack their porcelain. Leaving the radiator cap off, re-fire the engine, do a quick check that you have no gasoline leaks and then bring the engine up to operating temp.

While the engine is coming up to temp, you should be see the exhaust clear out the telltale white steam/smoke and look normal again. You'll also want to be watching the water through the radiator cap opening. The water should clear itself of large bubbles and flow a clear stream of water as the thermostat opens. If there is a continued occurrence of large bubbles & gurgling coming through the radiator, it could mean that you still have air in the system (not so bad) - or - you may have a combustion leak into the coolant system (yes, a bad thing). If the coolant bubbles smell like exhaust, then you know which it is.

Hopefully, the exhaust clears and the coolant flows normally and the temp is controlled and there are no visible exterior coolant leaks, then it would appear that you've got the problem fixed.

Shut the engine off and check the new motor oil and hopefully it still looks like clean motor oil and it is not getting milky again. Now let the engine cool all the way down. Re-check the torque of your cylinder head bolts in their proper sequence, then recheck the attaching exhaust / intake manifold bolts for proper torque too.

Now take the truck for a drive.... If you've got good power and the exhaust stays clear, it's likely that you've made a successful repair. Now you can drain out the 100% water and refill the coolant system with a 50/50% mixture.

Now if you still think you need/want to change the main or rod bearings, I'd have to recommend that you do a compression test on each cylinder first to determine the general sealing condition of the engine combustion chambers. If the compression tests indicate that it's a relatively tight engine yet, ONLY THEN would I go ahead and gather up the parts to change the main and/or rod bearings. I'd also do the necessary checks to evaluate the amount of slop in your timing chain/gears. Because you may want to change them out too when you get into changing the bearings. Gather up the parts you'll need and then plan to do the work at your next oil change, since you'll need to drain the oil and drop the oil pan to do this work.

Just my ,

BarnieTrk

[fire truck]

Shorter post here...

I would just change the HGs and go from there....

Price check a head gasket set and a full engine set. Sometimes the full set is actually less than the head gasket set, but even if it's 20 bucks more, you're got gaskets on hand to do the bottom later...

[debauchee]

Thanks for all the great info BarnieTrk. Especially the part about what to look for when I start it up again. I'll probably go that rout then and just change the head gasket for now. I'm having to fight the urge to strip the whole front end and rebuild everything but in reality, this is my daily driver and I need to just get the engine running again or quickly find out if I have bigger issues. If I had it my way, I would have it torn down to the frame this weekend and my wife would just keep giving me a ride to work.

[BarnieTrk]

Thanks for all the great info BarnieTrk. Especially the part about what to look for when I start it up again.

[Astrowing]

If you get there, the oil pan on the 223 is the easiest pan to drop of any engine I've ever worked on. I assume the 262 is identical.

[debauchee]

So I got the head off and it was fairly obvious where the coolant was getting into one of the cylinders. Also, when I drained the oil, there was a fair amount of antifreeze that came out first. Would this be able to get into the oil pan threw the cylinder or is this a sign that there might be a crack inside the block somewhere?

[Greg D]

Coolant will not compress like the air/fuel mixture - it will push right past the piston rings. If the head gasket leak compromises an oil drain back hole the coolant pressure will blow it right into the oil drain back and there fore into the pan.
You do not necessarily have a crack just because there is coolant in the pan.

[debauchee]

That's good to hear. I'm really hoping to keep the 262 in the truck.

[BarnieTrk]

That's good to hear. I'm really hoping to keep the 262 in the truck.

A lot will depend on, not if - but rather, how much damage was done with all that water in the oil and you driving it home.
More water than oil between two metal surfaces rubbing together can really mess things up!

I'd suggest that once you get the head gasket changed, the motor oil/filter changed and put water in the coolant system - see about getting it started & running.
Check your oil pressure gage to see if the oil pressure reading about what it was before the blown gasket. Hopefully, it will be.
Pay attention to detail, don't rush and good luck with the work...

Keep us posted on your progress!

BarnieTrk

[debauchee]

So after all that great advice about just doing the gasket and then getting it running again, I ended up completely ignoring it and pulled the whole thing apart. Main reason was once I got the head off, my neighbor who is an old hot rodder and raced professionally in the 50's finally took an interest in my project and offered to help. (I think he could never really figure out why I was wasting my time on a 60's truck with a 6 in it. He has a fully custom 42 ford truck with a big v-8 in it.)

In the end, it might have been a mistake but at this point, I've dumped more time than money into it and at the same time, have learned a ton from my neighbor which has been worth both the time and money.

Bad news is its been 3 months and I'm just now starting to put things back together. Probably another month before I can find out for sure if I just wasted my summer on a dead engine. (free time is hard to come by in Aug)

Good news is my valve cover looks real nice now.
[albumimg]8337[/albumimg]

[MadMaxetc]

good to hear you are having fun.

I hope you are not "waisting you time" (if you are learning, then it is not)

[oldtrucks]

debauchee
If, as you say, you learned a lot then you haven't "wasted" your time. You will be very pleased when tho old engine springs to life and runs like a top.
Congrats and I'm pleased that your hot rodder friend decided to take an interest and lend a hand.

[olliesshop]

Just read the thread, what a great "story" and a great way to spend the summer. Good luck on everything turning our AOK.