Pain in the #$%

DukeRoche · Post by **DukeRoche** » June 4, 2010, 5:16 pm

I would just like to state for the record that when every one of the eight bed bolts nuts on your truck bed is welded to the bolt and your last line of defense is using an air hammer and chisel, it makes you question if the truck has a mind of it's own and is forming a strong defense against you. That is all!

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » June 4, 2010, 5:54 pm

these ?

those 2 actually came out easy. used a wire brush on the threads, some pb blaster and my 1/2 impact with a swivel socket

i have had to cut a few out over the years

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » June 4, 2010, 6:37 pm

And you thought Christine wanted blood.....
U@ss

DukeRoche · Post by **DukeRoche** » June 4, 2010, 7:28 pm

Mine aren't that long Brian, and seem to be thicker...but I'm having a hard time judging with my hands shaking like they are

choptopdoc · Post by **choptopdoc** » June 4, 2010, 7:46 pm

The new for f350s have torx bolts that are loctited in. You will break any t50 socket you can find. The only way is grinding the head off. They are a BIAAAATCH

fire truck · Post by **fire truck** » June 4, 2010, 8:32 pm

choptopdoc wrote:The new for f350s have torx bolts that are loctited in. You will break any t50 socket you can find. The only way is grinding the head off. They are a BIAAAATCH

Ya just gotta know how to fineness them a little...do like Brian said, get under the truck, wire brush and oil the threads. then clean out the torx heads. One thing I learned is to undo rusty bolts like you run a tap. turn it tight after you loosen it a few turns to let the curd fall out, spray oil on the threads and then start loosening it again.

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » June 4, 2010, 8:48 pm

I didn't think it would be worth the effort to get them apart and possibly wollow out the square holes in the bed. I just ground the heads off.

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » June 4, 2010, 8:53 pm

At 1st I thought they were actually welded, like mine was and still is glad I haven't had to take them out yet. But for penetrating fluid I read something that actually works. 50/50 acetone and ATF, I use it more than pb blaster anymore and it's cheap, I figured what the hell won't cost nothing to try, I always have both, for some reason it doesn't evaporate either.
Charlie

BarnieTrk · Post by **BarnieTrk** » June 4, 2010, 11:52 pm

Charlie and all,
I just use diesel fuel or common fuel oil in a hand spray bottle for 99% of my rusty / stuck threaded stuff.
It doesn't flash away as quickly and is cheap enough - so I don't skimp on it.

BarnieTrk

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » June 5, 2010, 8:15 pm

I agree with the acetone and atf 50/50 mix ,the only problem is keeping it mixed. Best I could do was with a battery operated drill and a fan type paint mixer. but it works better than pb, by a lot, on old rusted bolts.
The tighten and loosen tip sounds great though, never thought to use it on smaller bolts.

John

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » June 5, 2010, 8:36 pm

this is how we get tem off, by doing what Brian does if not I Spot Weld the head then it will not turn, then after grind the spot weld down smooth,, Tom

hungrymonkey · Post by **hungrymonkey** » June 6, 2010, 1:38 am

LOL. I just took my bed off a few days ago.
I was able to bust loose all but 2 bolts. I used a sawzall on one of the rear bed bolts, and a grinder for one of the front ones.

I have a feeling that my truck wanted to feed me 45 years worth of road grime, rust, and grease. Since it would drop some into my mouth every time I touched anything under the truck.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » June 6, 2010, 6:37 am

Alternate method , heat nut untill red hot it will come off easily in most cases.

Rich

weezle · Post by **weezle** » June 6, 2010, 11:08 am

Shocking the bolt head using an air hammer with a flat punch is an alternative as well. But...cleaning & oiling the bolt threads is also a must.