I bought this good running 352 with 27,000 miles added since a partial rebuild. It was a work engine so the owner didn't make it pretty looking on the outside.
I plan on removing grime , rust and paint ...so it can be repainted and placed in my 65 F100 while my org motor is being completely rebuilt over the winter.
Put in a set of old spark plugs to seal the cylinders and leave the exhaust manifolds on the motor.
Plug and then tape off all the other vent holes and oil dipstick.
Tape off the carburetor flange on the intake.
If you have a plate made for bolting to the intake to pull the motor, put that back on over the tape.
Lift the motor so you can get to the bottom of the pan and start with oil and grease remover and a brush and work your way to the top of the motor.
Then, with a stiff bristle brush (smaller is better) and a heavy solution of Tide detergent, start at the top and work your way back down to the pan.
When you're satisfied, rinse with water and let it dry for at least one day.
Go back over your work and remove any built up oil and grease with what ever you have that will get in all those little places where that crap hides.
Get a can of Aircraft stripper and start at the top and remove the paint one small square at a time. You use water to flush and neutralize this stuff but like I said, small areas about the size of a dinner plate.
I use a small brass brush and what ever else I can - old tooth bursh, scrapers, small blade screwdriver, etc to get the old paint off the surfaces.
Be careful because this stuff is caustic, will burn your skin, if anything is very close down wind it will ruin the paint and be sure to use safety glasses, a long sleeve shirt, and wear some kind of a mask so you don't breath in any of the over spray.
I can't stand rubber gloves so I keep a pail of soapy water and an old towel to clean my hands if I get any on me.
When you're satisfied that you have all the paint stripped from the intake, pan and block, remove the exhaust manifolds and tape the ports up.
Wet wipe it all down with acetone or de-greaser and let it dry at least an hour.
Use the ceramic engine primer from any of the auto supply stores, but use the high temp stuff and put on at least a couple of coats.
I'd let the primer dry over night.
Then shoot your color.
Like everything else, its just labor intensive. Take your time and do it right so you don't have to do it again.
Hope this helps.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right. Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
That is an excellent description of how to do it thoroughly, Skip. You can always tell people who have a lot of experience with something, 'cuz they mention all the things that are likely to go wrong, and how they dealt with it.
Tide powder detergent, elbow grease and some patience can clean up a really grimy engine.
Before I do the engine, I usually go to a coin-op car wash and hit as much as I can with the pressure washer....
Drew
66 F250 Frame swap, EFI 408W, ZF 5-speed swap (still!) in progress 63 Falcon Futura EFI 331W, T5, but not much progress... Slicks First!!!
Thanks Guys ! I bought reg. gunk and gunk gel , box of tide and I had a can of aircraft stripper in my garage. I did a motor a couple years ago , but noticed a year after I painted it that flash rust was coming through some of the painted areas. My biggest concern this time is prepping the block correctly so that doesn't happen again. I was told about a product called "metal ready " ??
The motor is in a small trailer on an engine pallet now , so I will doing all the major cleaning at a quarter car wash instead of my driveway.
The motor has 27,000 on it since it's been rebuilt , the guy honed it and put new piston rings , rods , main bearings ,valve seals , new cam & lifters , new timing chain ,new water pump and new gaskets.
Got it $150 and heard it run before we pulled it , only bad part was the 11 hr round trip to get it
The metal prep you're asking about is the same as Ospho or Gem Rust Killer. Is a thin green liquid.
Actually, its a dilute solution of Phosphoric acid.
Again, this product can be very dangerous if you have prolonged exposure to it.... like soaking your hands in it. A splash or a little exposure isn't bad. Wash with water immediately. If you get it on your skin for an extended period and it starts to burn or hurt, wash with milk. The calcium in the milk will neutralize that acid.
Back to preparation.
Before you prime, wet all the clean surfaces with the Ospho et al, and let it dry. Prime directly over that surface.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right. Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
When i did my engine, i used easy off oven The lemon sented. We use it all the time at th john deere implement that i work at.
If you let it sit on engine for about a hour, it will even take off the paint. Then steam clean it.
Wes
64 4x4 with tilt front end
65 f100
66 f100
66 ranger
66 fairlane 500
You have to be careful putting primer directly over metal treated with phosphoric acid - they don't always like each other. Just like soda blasting issues, metal gets treated and then must be neutralized before priming and painting.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
I'm in the cleaning stages starting tomorrow , so it will be a few days ...I'll keep researching my options. I like the oven cleaner idea , I don't have a steamer , but I do have a quarter car wash behind my house.
Actually that stuff will mess up your skin like solvents can if you get it on you long enough. Just think about rubbing a lemon for a half an hour and see how it feels.
NASA cleans the T-38 engines with stuff like that, works real good.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
Well I used 3 cans of gunk on the engine and took it to the car wash. Then took it down the freeway at 70 mph to dry it ! Brought it home and sampled different stuff on it .. shot it with aircraft stripper in spots and that works very well , oven cleaner works well also , got out my drill & wire wheel after the paint stripper dried and it came right off. The plan now is to get all paint, grime and rust off the engine. Then I'll breakout the tide / water and go over it with a scrub brush. I still have this fear of water on bare metal , hopefully with an air gun and being out in the hot sun the metal will be OK ?
As Max indicated you need to neutralize the phosphoric acid residue on the block after using cleaners / strippers. That's what Metal Ready does. You can use their Marine Ready product first to clean and degrease.
I've painted 5 engines and learned getting a good 1st painjob isn't hard, its touchups that can be a hassle. That's why I use rattlecans
Here is my recipe:
Clean everything with a wire brush or better yet a wheel on a die grinder, loose sclae, rust, grease has to go. THEN douse it all with brake clean. The 99 cent black can autozone stuff.
Apply duplicolor rattle can hi temp paint directly to the steel.
It holds up great and if it gets dull from heat just mask the area and shoot it again. No POR prep or long dry times
Well I worked on a small area yesterday and took it down to the bare metal , came out to the garage 24 hrs later and I have rust film on the block. So my question is .... If I do a final wire wheel over the rust film , spray it down with cleaner and paint it all in the same day. ( It should be fine ? )
rcb1020 wrote:Well I worked on a small area yesterday and took it down to the bare metal , came out to the garage 24 hrs later and I have rust film on the block. So my question is .... If I do a final wire wheel over the rust film , spray it down with cleaner and paint it all in the same day. ( It should be fine ? )
go to your local automotive paint supplier and buy some metal conditioner. It will remove all rust and prep it for paint. I use PPG brand. The dupont brand also works well.
