. My 418 Fe engine is estiamted at 550hp and i am running 3/8 line from my fuel cell with a holley 750cfm with a 1:1 ratio throttle plates. It runs just fine. I an't saying not to go to the bigger lines just stating look at what you have than decide. I know I will be changing my fuel lines later, but I will go to a better electric pump that I know will handle 1/2 lines better than the one I got.Went to the strip, need to rethink my fuel line.
I agree the air/fuel ratio meter is a good thing to have, but who has $300 to buy one?? I want one real bad, but can't get one right now. A good turner can tune the carb to what he/she needs. Also you can run alot more hp on 3/8 line than 400hp. Best thing to do is fine the problem? It could be just as simple as the floats being set to low. Going to the bigger 1/2inch line is great, but do you have a fuel pump that can handle pushing the extra volume. I read all these specs on these electric fuel pumps and claim 110-140gph, but is that through a 3/8 or 1/2 line? and how continues is that. Those cheaper pumps might work on a 1/2 inch line for a while but it sure will put a strain on the pump. I have a friend that is running a 460 with dual 600cfm on a 3/8 line from his fuel cell. Runs a 11.90 in the 1/4 mile. You can sepnd alot of money on the bigger lines and pumps and gain nothing and spend less money on what you need and work just fine . My 418 Fe engine is estiamted at 550hp and i am running 3/8 line from my fuel cell with a holley 750cfm with a 1:1 ratio throttle plates. It runs just fine. I an't saying not to go to the bigger lines just stating look at what you have than decide. I know I will be changing my fuel lines later, but I will go to a better electric pump that I know will handle 1/2 lines better than the one I got.
. My 418 Fe engine is estiamted at 550hp and i am running 3/8 line from my fuel cell with a holley 750cfm with a 1:1 ratio throttle plates. It runs just fine. I an't saying not to go to the bigger lines just stating look at what you have than decide. I know I will be changing my fuel lines later, but I will go to a better electric pump that I know will handle 1/2 lines better than the one I got.-
FORDBOYpete
- Posts: 850
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 8:30 am
- Location: East Central Florida USA
Actually there is a formula for calculating fuel load specifics per horsepower used in the termminology of Lbs per Hour. The formula is used by SAE, and it's called, BSFC or Brake Secific Fuel Consumption.
Rather than me trying to explain this engineering posit I will just tell you to Google: Automotive Brake Specific Fuel Consumption & take your Pick of sources.
Point is you can see there is a way to Calculate & learn the amount of fuel required to develop a given Horse Power quotent, then calculate what size line or plumbing & what Volume Pump it takes to accomplish it.
FWIW this is the science & math used to design a PROM chip for EFI and determine correct size for injestors along with correct size plumbing to get the job done.
I know we are talking about Carbuterion here, but regardless of type of Induction a system uses, Quantities are still the same since numbers are based on power generated & what is needed to make any amount of horse power. It makes a huge difference over guessing a what amount is required.
Another consideration is PSI & volume Req'd. Larger a diameter of the fuel system gets, the more PSI is required to move a given Volume of fuel thru it. As PSI/ volume drops off it reduces Quantity.
In a Drag vehicle, a "1G" or "2G" of launch affects fuel flow to engine of vehicle from the tank to the induction. If a fuel line holds 1/2 gallon and gallon of fuel weighs 3.5 lbs, @ 2G inertial impact of launch the 3.5 equals 7lb until acceleration tapers off & G forces fall. So you can see there are a few forces at work. How you deal with a force, or each set of forces will determine how well you will run. Drag racing & running successfully really is a science and art fort form at the same time.
FBp
Rather than me trying to explain this engineering posit I will just tell you to Google: Automotive Brake Specific Fuel Consumption & take your Pick of sources.
Point is you can see there is a way to Calculate & learn the amount of fuel required to develop a given Horse Power quotent, then calculate what size line or plumbing & what Volume Pump it takes to accomplish it.
FWIW this is the science & math used to design a PROM chip for EFI and determine correct size for injestors along with correct size plumbing to get the job done.
I know we are talking about Carbuterion here, but regardless of type of Induction a system uses, Quantities are still the same since numbers are based on power generated & what is needed to make any amount of horse power. It makes a huge difference over guessing a what amount is required.
Another consideration is PSI & volume Req'd. Larger a diameter of the fuel system gets, the more PSI is required to move a given Volume of fuel thru it. As PSI/ volume drops off it reduces Quantity.
In a Drag vehicle, a "1G" or "2G" of launch affects fuel flow to engine of vehicle from the tank to the induction. If a fuel line holds 1/2 gallon and gallon of fuel weighs 3.5 lbs, @ 2G inertial impact of launch the 3.5 equals 7lb until acceleration tapers off & G forces fall. So you can see there are a few forces at work. How you deal with a force, or each set of forces will determine how well you will run. Drag racing & running successfully really is a science and art fort form at the same time.
FBp
Change is the Only Constant
Another thing that was not mentioned is friction loss in the smaller line. During regular pumping the bigger line is going to be easier on the pump due to less friction loss. This would be using an electric pump to push the fuel.
Not trying to debate you here FBP, that is just what I learned about when putting in large 10 and 12 inch farm irrigation systyems. Hydrualic engineer I am not.
Using my own experiment of drinking through a regular straw vs. a larger McDonalds straw, I would assume the larger line would work better for a mechanical pump as well.
However I never thought about the inertia against the pump during acceleration.
Not trying to debate you here FBP, that is just what I learned about when putting in large 10 and 12 inch farm irrigation systyems. Hydrualic engineer I am not.
Using my own experiment of drinking through a regular straw vs. a larger McDonalds straw, I would assume the larger line would work better for a mechanical pump as well.
However I never thought about the inertia against the pump during acceleration.
Last edited by BigTim on March 17, 2007, 5:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I agree the larger line will add more displacement of fuel. Which inturn the hard you accelerate the more the pump has to push. Thats why raising your float bowls a little bit and bumping up your idle and fuel pressure can help. Again the to big of line and not enough pressure to push the fuel can cause the same as not enough fuel and to small of line. Summit is selling a air/fuel ratio gauge for $25 and the O2 sensor for $25, and the bun to weld on the header for about $10 . so for about $60 you can have a close but complete accurate air/fuel gauge!!
12.66@101 in the 1/4 mile!!
On bad FE!! Still working on it!!
On bad FE!! Still working on it!!
buying truck on ebay
sorry to change subject but need advice from fellow texan on extended cab uni on ebay or stay on course with my 66 with 19.5 x 31 m/t,s outback and working on lowering the front. tempted but its a long way to idaho from texas if its junk not to mention the money lost feed back from anyone would be great
neil66
-
FORDMANLCRACKEL
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 9:48 pm
- Location: williamston, n.c.
- Contact:
BigTim have you run the truck at the track before with a different setup? If yes did it have the same problem? If it didnt have the same problem what have you changed in the setup if any.
Lonnie
Lonnie
The most rewarding job i ever had was being a dad.
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
1988 Ranger Build http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj31 ... %20RANGER/
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... 7_-1_10625
heres the link to jegs for the wideband, like i said earlier i would stay away from the narrowband a/f guages they are not accurate.
the edelbrock will probably be just as good as the autometer as long as it is wideband.
the only thing i dont like about the edelbrock is it dosent display the A/F ratio, digitally but im sure it is also a great tool.
you can get the autometer alot cheaper on ebay new if you watch for one
there are many companys that make nice widebands, I just like the autometer because of the setup, and alot of my friends use them on there race cars, and street cars
heres the link to jegs for the wideband, like i said earlier i would stay away from the narrowband a/f guages they are not accurate.
the edelbrock will probably be just as good as the autometer as long as it is wideband.
the only thing i dont like about the edelbrock is it dosent display the A/F ratio, digitally but im sure it is also a great tool.
you can get the autometer alot cheaper on ebay new if you watch for one
there are many companys that make nice widebands, I just like the autometer because of the setup, and alot of my friends use them on there race cars, and street cars
65 F100