Steering, Rag Joint?

[YukonCor55]

I replaced my battered old steering wheel with nice one from an old Falcon (Same wheel/different horn button) I noticed before I started the job that there was a gap between the base of the old wheel and the column (the spring loaded horn button is about 1/4" away from the ring on the wheel.) Anyway, now I know why my horn doesn't work...I figured maybe the old wheel had loosened on the shaft causing the problem. So, I pulled the old wheel installed the new one and smoked 'er down tight...no luck, Same gap. Somebody mentioned on here in another thread about a "rag joint" causing this type of problem. I'd sure appreciate any clarification since I don't know what a rag joint is. Then again, I didn't know what "slick" meant until just a few weeks ago! If it's a dangerous situation, I'd like to fix it ASAP. Thanks!
AJ

[gearhead21]

The rag joint is under the hood, and is where the steering shaft attaches to the steering gearbox. I don't know if it could affect the gap between the wheel and the collar.

[61 Merc]

On your 62 you won't have a rag joint anyway, as you have a solid steering shaft into the steering box. A rag joint should not affect the gap.

[DanSanDiego2000]

I had the identical problem with my '65, but the problem was not with the steering coupler (rag joint), it was with the steering shaft lower bearing and retainer. The gap comes from the failure of the lower bearing. If you recall, there is a coil spring under your steering wheel. That spring wants to push the steering wheel towards your nose (toward your face, and away from the horn contacts and turn signal cancelling pawls). The dangerous part is the fact that the lower bearing failure allows the shaft to push out of the column, aided by the force of that coil spring. The rag joint couples the steering column to the steering box, but with the failure of the lower bearing, the rag joint also fails, and the wheel can spin willy-nilly in your hand...... practically pulling straight out of the column. The rag joint is not the cause of the problem, it is a symptom and result of the bearing failure. This sounds like a good thing to ask JunkYardDog66 about (if I recall correctly). I remember threads involving him, and the rebuilding of columns, bearings, etc., for almost any conceivable combo of floor shift, column shift, auto, standard, 2wd, 4wd, etc. When I faced my own problem like yours, I was on my own to figure it out. Ask around, ..... I know one of these Gurus can point you in the right direction. I got all the right parts (the bearings were supposedly unavailable when I went to fix mine, however, asking the right person got me the right parts, and awaaaaay I went.
Good luck.
Dan

[Garbz]

As the cab mounts sag. a gap appears. there is adjustment at the juncture to the dash. the mount is slotted for the steering collum. There should be 1/16" gap for correct horn application.

BTW how did you put a falcon wheel on a four by four steering collum? slight diameter mis match...LOL

Garbz

[Lowell]

I had to replace the lower bearing on my 65 I think i ordered it from obsolete ford parts.( i think they changed their name but cant remember what their new name is). if your 62 is the same as my 65 , you have a clamp around the shaft just below the bearing . if all the balls havent fell out you may be able to loosen the clamp and slide it up a bit to remove the gap. you might have to have someone press down on the wheel while you slide the clamp up, but like i said be sure your bearing is good first.

[Slick Fan]

Just for the sake of info, the upper & lower steering shaft bearings on a '65 & '66 are the same bearing. If you find a good upper (most are still good) one in a boneyard, you can use that to replace the crusty lower one.
Don't know about pre-65 though.