Re: Installing a 429 Motor Mounts Needed Hints?

jbolivar · Post by **jbolivar** » March 23, 2007, 2:32 pm

Found a 71 high compression nice running 429 Thunderjet and C6 to install in my 64 short bed custom cab. Any suggestions, web links and connections would be helpful. Jim

bigtrip460 · Post by **bigtrip460** » March 23, 2007, 4:38 pm

i used the stock 3 piece mounts it has a thin heat shield and a thick rubber piece on it. when you put them on they will tilt the engine to the back. if they are backwards it will tip it forward and it wont work. also be sure the radiator fits in securely or the fan will eat it. right now i am looking for a shorter fan and a new rad. :oops:

it would also appear that the frame mount is box tubing with pieces welded to it to make it work.

I knew I should have taken pics when it was apart. maybe I can get a break in the rain and get under there and snap some.

ALSO... there is a longer c6 and a shorter c6 mine had the longer and i replaced it with the shorter. the longer one wasnt right and it put the driveshaft in too tight and made drivetrain vibration. the shorter one needed the cross member and carrier bearing moved like 2 inches but it made all the difference.

my tall valve covers and power brake booster barely clear each other.

use a rear sump pan. a front sump makes for pulling the mounts and hoisting the engine for an oil change. if you want to pick the engine up the brake booster needs to come out, so save yourself the trouble off the bat.

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » March 23, 2007, 5:45 pm

Stock mounts of any type will not work in a 64.

You need a engine crossmember manufactured for a 385 series in a straight axle truck. Avalable for just about anyone.

You also need to remove the stock transmission bellhousing crossmember to allow clearance for the C6 and add a transmission mount.

Christine has mounts from an 88 F250 installed with a bolt on tie togeter crossmember and rear sump oil pan, and a custom trans mount. If you leave it in the trans will never come out without pulling the engine.

The front crossmember may need clearancing for the fan. I sat the engine 2 inches lower than stock in her and needed to notch it. I also used an 88 HD modine brass cross flow radiator from the 88 F250 donor. (Yes it fits in between the rounded inner fenders at the core and gives big time cooling)

There are pics in my album of the engine and trans in place.

For a brake booster i used a 79 lever type that raises the booster about 2 inches for valve cover clearance. I had to modify the stock mount to the new larger bolt pattern and drill the pedal arm.

A custom cut drive shaft will be necessary for the swap to work. No stock drive shaft fits due to the 114" wheelbase.

GArbz

bigtrip460 · Post by **bigtrip460** » March 23, 2007, 5:57 pm

yeah mine is a 65 long bed not a 64 short bed so all i know is what i had to deal with.

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » March 23, 2007, 8:00 pm

Yep the 65 will accept the stock 385 series truck mounts. all the way up to 79.

Towers, isolators and block plates. Easiest way to do it in a 65 66.

Garbz

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » March 31, 2007, 8:37 pm

my 64 has a kit I bought from NPD it comes with the mounts and brackets to make the 385 series fit the open front end slicks that do not have crossmember, you can also buy a trans cross member for the C6 from them as well its really easy to do esp with front end off I sat mine back as far as I could, I have about 1/4 inch between firewall and cyl head so there is less weight at very front plus i can run electric fan on either side of radiator, with march perf serpentine belt system just go to National parts depot, or if you can find a local store that sells trans dapt products if its cheaper

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » March 31, 2007, 9:14 pm

In reality the best crossmember is the ones that is a tube crossmember for the 429-460 , those trans dapts just hold the side of the motor on a ear with all that space under the motor and after maybe removing any crossmembers to install you need some kind of support to go from one side of the frame to the other

Just had a set of trans-dapt put in the back of a truck taking to the crusher cause its not worth the headaches that will come from people twisting there frames especialy if going to run some serious horsepower :iagree:

with Garbz on the right way & safe way to do it :thumright:

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » April 1, 2007, 4:11 pm

trans dapt also has a tube crossmember if you feel you need more strength, but if that was the case you might as well just put a block plate up front

bigtrip460 · Post by **bigtrip460** » April 1, 2007, 9:09 pm

pics of my driver side mounts in my 65 if that helps at all. passenger side is generally the same .

bigtrip460 · Post by **bigtrip460** » April 1, 2007, 9:21 pm

found one of the pass side